Jump to content

Arisotura

6502
  • Content Count

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Well, finally got the proper 2SK1024, and put the power supply back together. It seems to work really nicely now. So I guess in the end all is good... we'll see how this goes.
  2. Lil' update on this. I replaced the few resistors I'd blown, still waiting for a replacement MOSFET (original one went bad too). I took a 2SK2611 MOSFET from another power supply, which is electrically compatible. The power supply now seems to work reliably, however the 2SK2611 is bigger than the original 2SK1024, so I can't quite put the thing back together. I'm waiting for a proper replacement (still).
  3. Well, I did a few hunts for leftover cap gunk. Basically a visual inspection, but also heating up solder joints -- any bubbling through the liquid solder is a telltale sign of cap gunk. I thought I had thoroughly cleaned the damn thing, guess I wasn't thorough enough, because I did find quite some leftovers. For each affected component, I desoldered it, cleaned it and the PCB, and put it back. I'm going to see if it works better now, but not right now -- waiting on some new components, due to some idiocy on my part. If that doesn't do the trick, I will try replacing the
  4. Well, I spoke too soon. The damn thing is being flaky again. I replaced the microcontroller and the optoisolator, to no avail. I could try going for the shunt regulator but I doubt that is the issue - when the PSU is in non-working state, there is no current at all in the output side. However, in that situation, the microcontroller is getting 13-14V instead of the normal 12V, which I think is what trips the overvoltage protection. Mains current goes through R2, R3 and R4 before powering the microcontroller. R2 is a black thing that looks like a tantalum capa
  5. I redid my soldering with proper cleanup and flux and all. Did the difference, now it's working reliably. I did check the traces around capacitors, there was one broken trace, which may or may not have been there before, but it was quickly taken care of. I also had to add a couple bodge wires to fix audio, there were some broken traces. Pin 4 of UC9 was disconnected. Also for some reason the grounds for the audio chips were disconnected from the rest of the grounds, but I couldn't find where the break was.
  6. Lil' status update on this, after some more rework, it's finally working reliably. I have gotten some replacement parts if it ever shits itself again, tho.
  7. I ordered some supplies so I can redo my soldering on my Mac LC motherboard the right way. In the meantime I figured I'd focus on the power supply, which is the typical TDK one. Of course, it had crapoed capacitors, so I replaced all the output-side capacitors and cleaned up the mess. The power supply now provides correct voltages, but... only when it feels like starting. Generally, if I mess with it for a while, it will happily start, but if it's been left alone for several hours, it won't start, just doing nothing at all, no clicks, nothing. I thoroughly c
  8. Well, I redid every single capacitor I had installed, turns out some of them weren't quite right. Anyway now it's all redone and good. But, still, no change.
  9. So a while ago I got a Macintosh LC, power supply was dead but in the meantime I was able to get it working by connecting it to an ATX power supply. It had no sound but otherwise seemed to work fine. Obviously the capacitors were at fault there, so I got new capacitors and set to work... ... except now the damn thing won't work anymore. I checked my capacitors a billion times, they're installed correctly and the soldering is good. I cleaned the motherboard as much as I could. Still nothing. Actually it's outputting a video signal at the correct resolution, but that's ab
  10. EDIT- my bad, this is the wrong forum
×
×
  • Create New...