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aeberbach

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  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia
  • Interests
    guitar, iOS, making things

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  1. I have a tape drive enclosure with the wrong SCSI connectors but OK power supply. I have a 50-pin SCSI CDROM drive. I have some Centronics IDC female connectors (C50F). I'm thinking of taking the tape drive out of the enclosure and using just the power supply. Then if I take a 50-way IDC (2 rows of 25) cable such as found inside a Mac SE/30 and crimp a C50F onto it, can I just connect the drive via this ribbon cable connected to a standard Mac SCSI cable 25-50 SCSI cable? If a drive has a termination jumper does that mean it can be connected as the only device, no need to worry abo
  2. I have been unable to find an affordable external SCSI housing for the SCSI CD-ROM I bought recently. I have a Mac-C50M cable as you would use with one of the old housings. I have a housing, some kind of 68-pin thing (FAST-U2WSLVDS or something I don't know what it is but it does not fit). I also have some IDC C50F connectors - so why not ditch the old tape drive that is in the housing I have and turn it into what I want? Can anyone who knows about these things describe please how to connect the C50F connector to the SCSI CDROM inside the case, is it as simple as crimping the C50F
  3. I hope you tapped it with a very insulated pen.
  4. I have printed this one, it is OK but not durable. You definitely want to print on its side - if the layers are across the direction of flex it won't last long. Unfortunately there's no good orientation, when your buttons are printed for maximum strength the fingers that reach into the mainboard buttons are not and they break off easily. This is a good candidate for remixing to allow a piece of piano wire or plastic to be bonded in for strength in the direction you choose to have the print layers laid down in the short direction. Maybe something other than PLA or PETG would be a be
  5. The quickest fix is to put a couple of toothpicks broken to length so that they just disappear, into the stripped screw hole. It's like putting expanding plugs into a hole in masonry, the screw will bite into the toothpicks and as they expand it will grab the side of the hole. A better fix is to fill the hole with some plastic and re-drill, then use the screw to make a new thread. When inserting screws into plastic always turn them backwards before driving them in. You will feel the screw pushing outward and then clicking in as the thread drops into its path - right after the click when the th
  6. I have a big old external SCSI enclosure with 16-bit 68-pin connectors on it. From what I read the SCSI standard is supposed to interoperate and if the physical connection can be made that should operate as an 8-bit SCSI peripheral also. So if I was to find a Mac 25-pin M to 68-pin SCSI M cable I should be able to connect it? Another possibility might be a regular Apple SCSI cable with an adapter converting Centronics 50 F to 68-pin M? Then once the physical connection made what does a System 7.5 Mac need to see device connected in this way - I expect hard drives just show up with
  7. How about a floppy drive? I have an external USB floppy drive that I use on my modern Mac though it would work the same transferring from a Windows machine. I format a floppy as a PC disk on the old Mac, write to it on the new Mac, and the old Mac has no trouble copying the files off. Obviously it takes time but is perfect when you just want one thing, like a driver. I don't know about "readily available" ethernet - but Asante made several. They are certainly out there, you just need to find one for sale at a reasonable price.
  8. A little external USB DAC will work in the G4 mini to take care of audio in and out I think. Mine cost $3 or something crazy and was intended for a Raspberry Pi.
  9. I would feel lucky if I found that for $3k? More lucky still if my wife ever agreed buying an old computer was a good idea! Congratulations! I am really looking forward to the story of diagnosing and bringing it back to life.
  10. Technically even one extra video card is a second card in a SE/30 - the onboard video simulates a NuBus card in slot E. I don't know if anyone has tried adding two video cards but I don't know why it would not work.
  11. I did make a thing for my own use that requires a Mean Well PT65B supply - it might not be so useful unless you are doing something to replace the original video out, but I'm happy to send STL files if anyone wants to print this thing. It's three parts - mainboard is just within the print capacity of a Prusa MK3S and power supply component is in two parts to avoid the need for supports while printing.
  12. Do you have a crimper? It’s a really important part of the experience, I bought one recently after folding down the tabs with needle nose pliers for years. You don’t have to spend $900 on a real Molex-branded one of course but you must have one!
  13. Interesting - I bet that's for the many CGA or Amiga-style monitors around at the time, if it isn't a proprietary connector for their own monitors. It could be a mirrored display solution - a CPLD with a ROM for configuration, some RAM for a buffer and connection to the PDS slot can easily grab writes to the onboard video memory and output that video in another format. It could also be a 1-bit 640x480 display card. Four memory chips gives it 64k 16-bit words. If the jumpers (JP1, JP2, soldered) follow Asante's scheme that's set for Slot A. If that is a slot identificati
  14. I’m looking at C6, originally 1uF. I see on the schematic it is between pin 7 of UB11 and gnd, labelled SND-R-A/D. Below, UB10 has SND-L-A/D with a 0.1uF cap in the corresponding place. Does anyone have any more detail like a data sheet for these chips? The smallest OS-CON capacitor available is 3.3uF, wondering if it could be used here. I really do like to replace with can style caps if possible - I have a perfect main board to recap and want it to look as original as possible.
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