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68kMLA Supporter
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About Stephen

  • Birthday 04/13/1986

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    San Francisco
  • Interests
    3D Design, Electronics, 68k Macintosh

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    Software Engineer

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  1. Did you ever come up with a reliable pinout?
  2. In case it's useful to anyone, here's a low-profile SCSI 50-pin to DB25 adapter board which makes it easier to directly attach the BlueSCSI (and maybe other SCSI devices?) to the external DB25 port. It's all open source so you should be able to modify it however you please!
  3. I see the dark left leg, but there's no signs of overheating on the board. Maybe it's not necessary (yet)? Does this part fail open?
  4. I would like to brighten up my cases this summer. Any quick tips from your experience? I see a lot of tutorials but they all have their own little spin on things.
  5. This is the container on Amazon, if anyone is curious. $12.99 at the time of posting.
  6. Resin printing at high resolution is generally very smooth. There will be visible lines but they are practically imperceptible to touch. If you would like a badge printed in resin just let me know and we'll figure out the details.
  7. I just assembled the kit and booted up my Macintosh Classic II. I can't believe how easy this is to configure — I am happy the SCSI2SD is an option and own one but the BlueSCSI is dead simple and appreciably more accessible in cost!
  8. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the original gear with the 3D printed replacement.
  9. Good work! If you decide you don't want the broken keyboard then please let me know, I would be interested in it for parts.
  10. I removed all of the keys from a M0120, which is a numpad that accompanies the M0110. This was accomplished without a damage by using a soldering iron, solder braid, and a solder sucker. Once the keys were removed I disassembled each of them and cleaned the entire inside, including the delicate leaf spring. There were many spots on the leafspring which would not clean with isopropyl alcohol or deoxit and in the end I used a very fine tipped fiberglass pen (successfully). During cleaning I repeatedly disassembled and repeated my cleaning efforts on particularly troublesome keys while performing
  11. There's some anecdotal success of restoring normal ejection to the original G4 Cube drives by boiling the rubber belts; it shrinks them back to a diameter which is closer to the original diameter. I haven't tried it myself.
  12. Hey @erichelgeson, I've been passively following this project. Would you mind sharing a TL;DR summary of where it's at? I'm specifically interested for the purpose of compact macs but I'm sure others with different use-cases are watching.
  13. That was an oddball. This is a Macintosh Color Classic II which I bought "AS-IS" from Japan (Sendico). After some snooping on the analog board I realized someone had attempted the takky mod but wired the wrong pins. I undid the mod and repaired the pins on the slot connector and voila it lives again. However, now the CRT display is a little dipped in on the top left. I've attempted to correct it with the regular pot adjustors but I think my best option are the adjustment rings on the yoke. Any suggestions before I adjust them?
  14. I have a color classic which appears to have a problem with the analog board. Would anyone be willing to offer some advice on where to start? Debugging so far: Checked the CRT on another (working) CC and it works fine! Checked the logic board on the working CC and it works fine! Symptoms: When I boot the problematic CC I hear a boot chime but no video, even after waiting a few minutes. Additionally, I don't hear the "static" / "electrical" sound that normally indicates the CRT is charging.
  15. I had this problem myself recently. My (temporary) solution is below. This is powered by my 30v/10a bench power supply set to 28v. I can see from the power supply that at idle the G4 Cube draws ~1 amp (28 watts) without an Apple Studio Display. With a 27" Apple Studio Display the G4 Cube is drawing nearly 4 amps (112 watts). The original power supply is rated for 8 amps (224 watts) and I'm not really sure why it would need that much power. I'm trying to understand if a smaller more common PSU would be acceptable for a G4 without ADC (e.g., DVI).
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