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MrFahrenheit

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  • Interests
    Vintage System 6, 7.x, HyperCard, older vintage hardware such as Jaz and Zip drives, Apple A/UX, Mac OS X Server, Debian Linux, Calculating Pi to insane digits.

    Recently been recapping all of my vintage hardware.

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  1. It sure is, and it makes it painfully slow compared to other 68030 Macs, and even more painful compared to a 68040. If you want an exercise in patience, boot up an LC/LCII and wait for things to happen. Use the menus. The original Color Classic is really no different than the LC/LCII. And the LCII had basically zero speed bump over an LC (except it could use virtual memory, which really would make it slower). It's a shame that Apple crippled such great machines with a 16 bit bus. The Classic II could have been a real SE/30 competitor had it kept the 32bit bus of the
  2. Mac System 7.6.1 can read HFS+ but cannot write or boot from an HFS+ volume, if memory serves me correctly. However, you can easily erase the volume as a different file system type in the finder I believe. Use HFS on 7.6.1 for best results.
  3. If you boot with extensions disabled and get info on your hard disk it should show you the version of hard disk driver that was used to format the disk.
  4. Dimitris1980, does your Mac boot 7.6.1 if you hold down the shift key on boot? What version of drive setup had you used to initialize your hard drive ?
  5. Thanks everyone for the info. When I get a chance I’ll check the voltage regulator and if it’s the right one I’ll try them out.
  6. I was not aware of this. Which is why I asked first. I’m very glad I asked. Thanks!
  7. I received an LC 475 to recap. I’ve recapped like 100 boards but I haven’t encountered this issue nor do I have any sort of scope to diagnose it. The white signal is being output as red. Right from switch on. The on-board RAM also isn’t being recognized. It came to me as needing recap because it had no video output. It was missing the PRAM battery (which means it often won’t work anyways), and the factory caps were leaking quite bad. After I removed the caps I noticed significant leakage at the pads but it cleaned up quite well. A few of the ICs were corroded with
  8. Thanks for the advice, waynestewart. If there are issues with the CPU is there any great possibility I could ruin my beige G3 motherboard by installing it and booting or is it more of a “if it has problems it just won’t boot”? Also what are the possibilities of testing the G4 chips on the beige G3?
  9. It's possible it wasn't created properly, or burned properly. CDs were sometimes tricky even back in 1996, let alone burning one using 2020 technology. Modern blank CDs are not formulated exactly the same as those from the 90s. There are probably 10 possibilities here why it doesn't boot. Sadly it's likely failing. If you want the mechanical drive sound, look into a U160/U320 drive that is backwards compatible with LVD (SCSI 1/2) and has a SCA 68 or 80 connector. They're usually under $20 on eBay. Pickup an adapter board for about $25 and you're golden. I have boug
  10. Sometimes I don't know what I'm getting myself into. I picked up a quantity of 15+ PowerPC G3 and G4 processors of the same ZIFF socket type. The same type used in the G3 beige, G3 B&W, and earlier G4 models. I want to find the easiest and safest way to test them all. I do happen to have an XLR8 Carrier Ziff CPU-Slot upgrade card, but I don't want to blow it up. I also have a very nice condition beige G3 Mac, and a presently non-working G3 B&W. Can G4 CPUs be tested in the Beige G3/XLR8 Carrier Ziff safely? Should I buy a G4 just for testing these things out?
  11. Ah ok. The reformat, was it done on your 575 or on a different machine ? Did you recap just the logic board? Because a 575 needs the analog board and PSU recapped as well. What caps did you use ? As for the keyboard, very strange. Perhaps you could take it apart and check for damage somewhere.
  12. Firstly, I’ve had the double boot before when moving a hard drive from one type of machine to another. Like booting on a PPC then booting on a 68k. Don’t know why. Secondly, yes you definitely need to recap that Mac. All Macs pre-2000 need to be recapped ASAP.
  13. I examined the board and found that it used 47uf 10v caps. My plan was to replace with my stock of 47uf 16v caps. 6 extra volts, supposed to be safe. Then I looked at my other 650 board, and it came from factory with 47uf 6v caps!! I’m like.... ...okay... So I remove and replace the 47uf 10v caps with 47uf 16v. As I’m going around the board I discover a location at c10 where there is no cap. So I compare to my other 650 board. There’s a cap there. I look online. All boards I see have a cap there. It’s a 10uf 16v cap. It’s clearly not been removed or broken off, it w
  14. I have two IIfx machines with Apple-installed tantalum caps. One of them was experiencing strange behavior. Freezing, slowness, power on failures. All signs of capacitor failure like you find on a IIci for example (non-tantalums). I recapped the board and discovered the 47uf 16v cap near SCSI was burned and such. The pad was so bad I ended up soldering the replacement onto the pads for the electrolytic can. The machine boots and runs perfectly now. I also presently have a Q650 which uses all tantalum caps. It’s behaving badly. I initially thought it could be the
  15. The Macintosh I'm referencing with a 2200uf capacitor being replaced with 47uf is the Macintosh LC. The first run of Macintosh LC computers had a large through-hole capacitor spec'd at 2200uf. All of the motherboards produced, through the end of the manufacture, have a through-hole space and SMD space for a capacitor at this location. Subsequent boards (after the first run) issued by Apple with no apparent change in design replace this same capacitor with a 47uf, 16v SMD capacitor. I have replaced several 2200uf capacitors with 47uf capacitors on these boards without any noticeable issue.
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