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  1. Not sure if anyone else has seen this. I noticed there’s a Shopify storefront at drbott.net that appears to be selling the ADB Moniswitch. Their http://www.duregexpress.com/ site doesn’t appear to ship to the US, but the Shopify site seems like it’s supposed to. However, if you try to checkout, at the final screen PayPal says “This store can't accept real orders or real payments.”
  2. Got some 3M 8810 thermal tape (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QSHPH8E) and a little fan/heatsink combo (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZTM539S) and installed them in my Mac. Hooked up the fan to the 5V hard drive power and stuck the heatsink on the CPU, and it all fits perfectly. The fan is probably overkill but it's quiet enough and consumes very little power so I don't really care.
  3. Most of the 68040s that were in Macs were the XC models. Motorola took a long time to fully qualify the 68040 as a MC part according to something I read online a while ago. The XC chip in the photo I took is the original cpu from my Quadra 605.
  4. Bought an MC68040 to upgrade my Quadra 605 from this eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-MC68040RC40A-New-MPU-ColdFire-Processor-RISC-32bit-40MHz-179-Pin-PGA-Tray/323076959423 The image showed the L88M mask revision which is supposed to be the one that runs nearly cold. I figured it was probably not really a L88M revision chip, but figured why not since it's eBay and I can get my money back if necessary. Well, the good news is it's a real 68040 according to MacBench, and the bad news is it runs about 15 degrees C hotter than my old XC68LC040 CPU when aiming an I
  5. As an update, I tried hooking up the board of my better M1212 to the CRT from the worse one, and after adjusting all the convergence/etc I still couldn't get the focus any better than it was. I'm thinking this may just be a high-hours CRT. Maybe some day I'll try recapping the board, for now I'll just use the nicer CRT.
  6. I have two Macintosh Color Displays (M1212). These monitors have Sony Trinitron CRTs inside. One of them is still pretty bright and sharp. The other, when I received it, was quite dim even when I turned the front knobs up. I eventually took it apart and adjusted the G2 to where the brightness was decent enough, but increasing G2 as I did causes the screen to get a soft focus. I have the focus potentiometer turned as far as it will go, which does improve the focus a little, but it just can't get anywhere near as sharp as the other monitor. Rather than go down a wild goose chase repl
  7. I haven’t recapped it yet. Obviously needs it, being 30 years old, and the audio is very faint which is a telltale sign at least those caps are dying. Tonight I took it all apart, saw a little bit of oxidation/possible corrosion on some SMT chip pins around the video area of the motherboard. Traces still look quite good though, no obvious capacitor juice anywhere. Tossed the dead lithium battery timebomb, did some quick cleaning with isopropanol and put a little deoxit on some of the more corroded chip legs. Analog board looks pretty immaculate, didn’t do anything to it yet. Reseated the simms
  8. Finally graduated from lurking, and I'm hoping for some repair advice. My SE/30 is showing scanlines repeated and flickering. Has anyone encountered this before? I took a video, you can see it on reddit:
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