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macosten

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About macosten

  • Birthday 07/05/1997

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  1. No; there was no point in time when the stock PSU and the bad RAM were both installed at the same time. I figured I'd do both things at once... you'd think I'd know that I should only change one thing at a time by now. I realize now I didn't make clear in my earlier post. In my defense, I posted that way too early in the morning after spending way too much time getting it working...
  2. Alright, so what I've ended up doing is rewiring a PC power supply to match the Quadra's power. At first, I wasn't getting it to work... but it turns out that was because the brand-new RAM I ordered was messing it up. When it was in Bank 1, the machine didn't chime, and when it was in Bank 4, it chimed, and then gave me the Chimes of Death right after. Without that bad new RAM, though, it works normally. My setup is a bit ugly (mostly because I didn't redirect any cables), and the PSU is just mounted to the inside of the old PSU box... but I'm just happy to have something working.
  3. Make sure you're restarting after each time you change the switch settings. If you just so happen to have the same kind of adapter as I do, try turning on 2, 3, 6, and 7, and then applying power. That's what worked for me (check the reviews for other suggestions).
  4. Just tried this again, just to be sure; I checked to make sure nothing conductive was under the board, made sure all the pins were normal, I removed all the RAM and replaced it with one bank of brand-new modules in Bank A, I removed the NuBus card it came with, tried with and without the VRAM, nothing connected to the PSU except the logic board, and... Nothing. Not even a speaker pop, and no fan movement. I couldn't see anything broken or burned out on the board. I did clean a discolored area near the I've got a multimeter set to measure VDC and even as I'm
  5. So, I recently got a Quadra 950 and had it shipped to me. Naturally, it was working, but shipping happened, and it's acting up a bit now. I've surmised that it has a problem similar to that described in this post. If I let it sit, then try turning it on with soft power immediately after plugging it in, then I can either get it to turn on and boot normally, or I can get it to turn on and then off again right after that. In fact, the symptoms in the third post of that topic are basically identical to those in my machine. The main difference is that I have a very hard time actually ge
  6. Yep, that's one of the trollish things about these capacitors. An electrolytic's stripes are negative, and a tantalum's stripes are positive. Let this be a lesson to all who wander over here You could say that this was a ...shocking experience? Or perhaps it was... enlightening? Nah, but seriously, I wish I knew why they made the stripes as they are...
  7. Alright. Luckily I used duct tape to seal my bodgework so while it looks like a growth it does work (for the time being) and I can just take the tape off to reverse it. Do you suggest I just dremel the PSU brick open, or should I still try getting it apart with a flathead screwdriver (despite already having chipped the plastic)?
  8. Update! I opened up my charger and swapped pins 1 and 2 (they were the red and orange wires in my charger). The computer now works, but I assume the battery will no longer charge. This confirms TechKnight's assessment (and what tjjq said from the beginning ;p ). So now I've got to just recap it, I assume. When I do, should I flip the wires back to their original positions or will they be fine as-is?
  9. I've got a battery I've recelled, and it works, though the computer won't boot off it (especially now that I removed the PRAM battery ). Will the battery charge at all off the 2.1V VMain? I assume it'd be slow as heck if it did, but since I'm not the greatest electrical engineer (aspiring CS/Math major here) I'm curious as to whether or not it would work. Sucks that there are so many after-market PSUs for just about every other powerbook, but Blackbirds haven't got a thing. I can't help but think that somewhere there must be a PSU that can be wired up to the plug and made to work, but
  10. There's an interesting suggestion. So I guess that might be a temporary fix (it'll make the battery slow to charge, if it charges at all, though, I think?). Would there be a way to take the plug from the PSU and hook it up to a more generic power supply and get it to work? Maybe there's a 15 or 16V PSU somewhere that would work for this? Or would it just be better to smash the PSU brick casing open (since it's super-brittle anyway and I've already chipped it I'm not really concerned about its condition anymore; I could just try 3D printing something at the Forge) and recapping
  11. I briefly tried, and it splintered a bit... Any suggestions for replacements? Which caps should be recapped, or (if I steal the plug off the end) are there any other known supplies I can just splice the plug onto and get it to work? Edit: the computer should still work, right? Is it likely the PSU goof-up took anything else with it?
  12. Alright, I've got the multimeter! ...I stuck wires into pins 1, 2, and 3 (not all at the same time - don't wanna cross anything). From 1 to 3, the current is 16.5 V... but from 2 to 3, it's only around 2.1 V. Something tells me that might be part of (if not most of) my problem, huh? Well, anything I can do about this one? Caps to pick up, instructions on how to take the PSU apart?
  13. Don't want to, but I'm willing to. I'll poke it with a multimeter tonight, either way.
  14. Won't be able to get ahold of one until tomorrow night; that's why I ask. Evidently, there are two ground pins and to 16V pins, one at 1.5A and one at 1.0A. I remember seeing this info somewhere else on these forums.
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