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    Kyoto, Japan

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  1. You can definitely skip some steps. The one thing I’m not sure about is if the PGM files would be 8-bit. If you give it a try, then open up one of the output files in a text editor. It must start with these three lines of text (before lots of binary data): P5 512 342 255 Also, if the input is 24 FPS, then change the “-r 30” on the command to match: ffmpeg -v warning -stats -y -r 24 -i 512x342.mp4 -r 24 source-%06d.pgm I wonder if fstark would consider a few checks: char header[15]; size_t header_size = fread(header, 1, 15, f); assert(header_size == 15); assert(s
  2. I did bid on it, but it sold for about $150 more than I wanted to pay for an 8-page brochure.
  3. Still possible! You just have to Format → Make Plain Text first. It won’t let you impoverish the text as part of the save process.
  4. Only 2-bit color at that resolution, though that’s already almost as much VRAM as I have RAM in the system.
  5. That’s true of more modern mice, like ADB and PS/2, but an M0100 mouse exposes raw quadrature signals. Each axis has two pins that cycle 00 → 01 → 11 → 10 in forward or reverse order depending on the direction. An Atari controller wouldn’t ground opposite pins at the same time, so if you wired the Atari axes to the Mac axes, the cursor should never go more than 1px forward or back from 11.
  6. Here's another dumb idea… If the adapter hooks up the Atari wires to the mouse wires in the “obvious” way, then I think the joystick would act like a mouse that can't move more than 1px from its origin. So, what happens if you start the game with the cursor in the upper-left hand corner?
  7. Yeah, a button on the screen turns the computer on, probably by grounding Power. That button lights up when the computer's on and pulses in sleep mode, which might be the function of LED.
  8. I think that’s short for “Singapore Private Limited”. Astec’s apparently based in Singapore.
  9. I’m personally set with an ADC display and an ADC-to-DVI adapter already, so although it would be nice to have the option I probably wouldn’t get one. If you could manage HDMI+audio out, I’d spring for that. Before I got the ADC display for my Cube I mainly used a VGA-to-HDMI+audio adapter (not ADC-to-DVI-to-HDMI). That one adds audio via USB, which is convenient for the Cube. In theory it should be possible in a single adapter, but you’d need a lot more circuitry: a USB DAC (cheap enough?), 28V-to-5V to power it (no +5V in ADC?), and an HDMI audio inserter (uncommon? $
  10. I don’t have any documentation for that particular adapter, but my guess would be that switches 1-4 wire pins together directly (ground and sense 0, 1, and 2), and 5-6 wire diodes between sense 1 and 2 for multisync. That’s consistent with 24 giving 832×624. If I’m correct, then the following should also work: 12: 640×480 at 66.7 Hz 23: 1024×768 at 75 Hz 34: VGA (640×480 or 800×600 at 60 Hz) 126: multi-sync up to 1152×870 (or 1024×768, if I have 5/6 backwards) If you have a multimeter or connectivity tester, I could walk you through checking the pins.
  11. I don’t know if this is the reason, but I believe that floating-point arithmetic is sometimes done at higher precision and then rounded. If you imagine a “two decimal digit” floating-point number, it would be like this: decimal2 x = 2.9; decimal2 y = 0.5; integer i1 = x * y; // round 1.45 to 1 decimal2 f = x * y; // round 1.45 to 1.5 integer i2 = f; // round 1.5 to 2 You might be able to show this by looking at sizeof(float1) and sizeof(float1*100).
  12. One of these popped up on Yahoo Auctions again: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r465570559 This one seems to be missing the badge in the front, but has some interior photos and a clearer picture of the expanded ROM, which I’ll reproduce here. Apparently the expanded ROM clips over the processor—it wasn’t what I was picturing, but I can see why that might be the easiest way to do it.
  13. I’m not familiar with the LC series, but I know that early analog boards (128k/512k/Plus) have -12V (and not -5V) and I thought that was likewise for RS-422/LocalTalk. Do the specific voltages matter, or do they just have to be far enough apart? Wikipedia suggests to me that ±5V is correct for RS-422, so maybe the Plus is doing something else that I don’t understand.
  14. Oh, by the way, I could also lend you the mouse. PM if you're interested.
  15. Like I said, I don’t have a good way to measure it. I pulled out a tape measure. 11mm sounds like a good guess for the length (it’s hard to get a tape measure in there). I think the diameter is smaller, about 5mm. Just to be clear, the markings say 6.3V, not 63V.
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