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About jessenator

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  1. I'm having a similar thing happen with my SSIIs— I found some old post from various forums saying it was a Mac hardware problem, not a speaker problem, which is a weird oversight if it were true. But in my case, the speakers are plugged into a Presonus interface anyway, so even less credence to that Where are the caps in the speakers themselves? or do you mean the radial caps in the sub/amp unit?
  2. Did you also recap the small daughter board inside the PSU? https://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-iisi-power-supply/ That will give you intermittent power on/off issues. It's a bit of a bear to desolder all of the pins to get the board out, but it's definitely required recapping. Good luck!
  3. That's pretty great. Even though I don't need 90% of those tools for anything, I sure enjoyed perusing the marking and measuring section. I kinda want that contour measure tool, though.
  4. Score! Yep that's a clean ROM. Hold onto that for sure. Going off of the MIT Mac development notes, it's interesting to see the IIsi not listed... I mean, it's not the same architecture as an SE/30 but they share some aspects, I suppose.
  5. Yeah, it should seat correctly: Stolen from: https://www.ni.com/en-us/support/documentation/supplemental/18/pci-keying-and-voltage-compatibility.html With the 5V key seating before the "extra" pins behind it (or on the right in this image above)
  6. The three slots are 64-bit 5V. The shorter one is indeed a 3.3V 32-bit slot Both of my Rage128 cards are keyed to plug into either 3.3V or 5V slot: And A lot of Rage II cards I'm seeing, and even going back to Mach64 ATi cards are keyed 5.5V only, so I'm assuming yours is a Rage128 You can plug 32-bit cards into 64-bit slots and it should work, unless yours is only keyed only for 3.3V. But if that's the case, you wouldn't be able to physically seat it in the 64-bit slot anyway.
  7. Logic board doesn't look too bad, really—at least there's no battery bomb to deal with. You'll definitely want to give it a good clean to make sure the cap goo is gone. I can't tell by the photos if the FDD is repairable, but give it a clean and lube and see if it reads (a disk you don't care about losing). Alternative is to invest in a FloppyEmu, if you've got other vintage floppy-dependent Macs as well, or plan on acquiring more. That case... looks like it was sitting on its front side down in a puddle for a while... can't tell if that's algae or what but that would explain the FDD rus
  8. What display are you hooking up to it currently? This might be a dumb question to ask, but I've found very strange compatibilities even with CRTs of the era, Apple and other manufacturers alike. For instance, my Rage128 equipped macs will now sometimes, stupidly, output a signal that's outside of the frequency range of my ViewSonic E70fb, which is bizarre, as they're pretty much contemporaries. My two LCD panels are usually okay, and both of my Apple CRTs are good as well.
  9. Thanks for that. Sorry, I guess I had just assumed it hadn't been specified here because the conversation kept going back to "1.2mm is too thin" And I just rolled along...
  10. Just to clarify, you tried it with no DRAM/VRAM (other than soldered, obviously) and no nubus cards, and got the death chimes? Do you have an internal scsi hdd/scsi2sd/etc installed? If there's nothing connected internally, it will need termination, iirc. I've had similar issues (unpopulated memory slots and good chime then bad chime) due to a) my scsi2sd not being configured correctly, b) not having a drive in it, and c) the original HDD not working (I surmised the write arm was fused to the bumper stop). Hope this might be a solution for you. And no batte
  11. Sorry. What I meant to say is the 30-pin RAM and the ROM that was original in my Macs has that measurement. I actually don't currently own any reproduction memory modules, just a MacSIMM ROM which is currently in my SE/30—and , in full transparency, I'm not trying to be belligerent or argumentative at all! I just want to know what the heck is going on Just took my SE/30 ROM and measured across the contact portion the PCB again: 1.25mm which is about 49 mils when I switch to decimal inches, 3/64 in fractional inches. Across the bare board it's around 46–47 mils or 1.20 mm. SO …IDK I even
  12. I'd like to know just so I can put my mind at ease (as I don't engineer/build myself, this is just a fact my brain wants to know :P ), because after seeing several of these and a few other posts about this and how it's plaguing new builds for our old machines. I went ahead and measured a few sticks of my of-the-time 30-pin RAM and my OEM SE/30 ROM SIMM I have and they're all 1.20–1.25 mm by my caliper measurement (margin of error is usually ±0.01 mm on mine). So I don't know if I'm measuring wrong (don't know how I could with the board thickness…) or if I have mutant sockets, or what the
  13. I can tell you the way I did it with the Color Classic piece. I think there are specialized tools one could use, but since I don't have access, I have a fairly accurate method. I use precision measurement equipment (just good, metric rulers) and photograph them (with a lens that gives me the least amount of distortion) from multiple angles, to make sure I get it all. In some cases you could get away with a flatbed scanner. I then used a drawing program (I used illustrator, but one could use another solution, where you can place images and scale units until you're working 1:1 I
  14. Perhaps you've done this already, but check to make sure there's VRAM in the slots as they have no soldered VRAM, but then again it could just be the 12" monitor having issues like you mentioned.
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