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PotatoFi

68kMLA Supporter
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Everything posted by PotatoFi

  1. Wow, I guess that is confirmation! Thanks for helping settle it @erichelgeson!
  2. Yeah, I think probably just a broken trace. I think it's possible that this wire was run at the factory... but that's just a guess.
  3. Here's what the case looked like at the beginning of the day. I left some water out in a bin overnight, and this morning at 9 or 10 AM it was about 75 degrees. I dumped in six bottles of 40 proof hydrogen peroxide. I noticed that all of the caps felt really loose on these, and the little sealing thing came off in the cap. It makes me wonder if these were really sealed up... Sadly, it just didn't get very hot today. I never saw it clear 95°F. The fishtank heater brings it up to 90°F on it's own.
  4. Hey @LaPorta, you asked about the CRT in my Classic II in the Awful Macintosh SE thread! Does this image tell you what you need to know? Also, correct me if I am wrong... but isn't any CRT compatible, as long as you swap the yokes? Adrian's Digital Basement did this on a video he released today, and it looked pretty simple. To fill everyone else in, the CRT on this Classic II has some burn-in, and is pretty dim. I think it need to be replaced. Additionally, despite my recapping it, there is a "ghosting" effect that occurs. Basically, the image smea
  5. Oooh, let's chat about this. Maybe over in the Classic II restoration thread. Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and hot, the perfect opportunity for some retrobrite! While I did scrub the case down earlier, I didn't really detail it. There are still some rust stains, black marks, and grimy corners to deal with. I discharged the CRT and disconnected the anode wire, and went to work with the impact driver. And speaking of the impact driver, I've been using it a LOT on this project. I think it will become a main part of how I work on these going forward. It makes teardowns super fast.
  6. Get those batteries out! Noaw! No chime, because for my test, the speaker was not installed. Thanks! Seeing it come to life was very rewarding. Thanks techknight! This one just took a bunch of elbow grease, that's all. As for the CRT, I don't think I'll bother. I am looking for a CRT for my Classic II, but for this machine, I won't worry about it.
  7. I've wondered about the whole electrolytic vs. tantalum thing myself. So far, I've recapped: 2x LCII 2x SE/30 2x Classic II 2x Performa 476/Quadra 605 All tantalum caps. Zero problems so far. In regards to desoldering vs. "twist and push", I was a die-hard proponent of "desolder, rock to the other side, desolder" until I lifted two pads on my SE/30 in a row. Someone on the forum suggested twist and push, and given the current heartache on my SE/30 I decided to give it a go. I've done 4 boards since then, and lifted (not destroyed) only one pad. If yo
  8. The Mac sat all night, and then most of the next day while I worked. When work was done, it was finally time for the moment of truth! I plugged it in all by itself with no peripherals, and then flipped the power switch... Nothing. Total silence. No activity whatsoever. Well, I guess expecting this to power on after it had been through was probably a bit too much to ask, huh? But then I got to thinking. Maybe, just maybe. I removed the two screws near the back of the analog board that connect it to the chassis, and then t
  9. Whoops! I fixed the misquote. And yes, I agree that it's much closer to Lazarus than Wesley. This thing has been dead for a long time! I've always let my Macs sit for a few hours before discharging, so I've never experienced this. Not even on my 128k that has a Plus upgrade (although I think it has a bad flyback anyway, still searching for a replacement). Maybe I'll try discharging this one immediately after power-off. For science!
  10. This evening, it was time to tackle the analog board and power supply. First, I cracked the lid on the power supply, which is a Sony model. Inside, it wasn't nearly as bad as it looked. The enclosure was rusted, but the board and components looked okay. I removed the plastic shield on the back of the analog board, and found that it looked okay. A bit of corrosion but nothing serious, I've seen worse from capacitor damage. I used my impact driver to remove the four Phillips screws holding the power supply to the analog board. With the power supp
  11. Thanks for the recommendation! I'll either do this, or take it to my brother's house to sandblast it. Not sure yet. Thanks for bringing this up; I think you're right. I don't know why I clipped there. The two are probably electrically connected, but I won't test that theory again. Additionally, if the tube did have a charge, you wouldn't want it taking the long way around past all of the electronics. The good news is either way, the tube didn't have a charge remaining when got my fingers under the anode cap. For what it's worth, I've never, ever, ever heard even a
  12. I'm with all of you, I think it's going to come back to life! Thanks LaPorta! Part of me wants to see how far we can go with original parts, and the other part of me thinks it would be kinda neat to source a few replacements and see how nice we can make this SE. Let's keep this open for discussion a little later on in the project. But now, it's time for another update! After sitting in the vinegar all Sunday afternoon, I pulled the logic board out and took it back to the sink for a soap and water scrub. I took it out to the garage
  13. I've started a thread for the Macintosh SE FDHD! You can find it here.
  14. I received a Macintosh SE FDHD from a friend that is in very rough condition. In this thread, I'll attempt to revive it! Normally, I title these threads as "Restorations", but I don't think that's appropriate here due to the condition of the machine. I don't think it will ever look new again, but I want to see if I can get it working. And while I'm at it, I'll make it look as good as I can, because every Mac that we keep in circulation is another Mac in circulation! Here's what we have to work with. It is extremely dirty, and the front is obviously very, very scratched. At this poi
  15. Okay, I got it all home! Here's what it ended up being: Macintosh SE FDHD. Battery has not blown up. Sadly, it has been partially submerged in water, up to the bottom of the floppy drive. There's a quite a bit of rust... but it's possible that the logic board might be viable. It's never going to be pretty, but it's possible that it will work again. It will need a donor chassis and power supply. I will add a link to the restoration revival thread here. Macintosh IIsi. Pretty clean. Battery in the logic board hasn't blown up. Someone cut a hole in the top of the cas
  16. Right, //c is much smaller. I totally knew that. Just a bit excited. I've seen an Apple //c in person, but never any other Apple II stuff that I can remember.
  17. I have a local friend who is into tech that I met on Twitter. He's hooked me up with some cool stuff before, like a mint condition Game Boy Color. I think I modded a Game Boy DMG-01 with a backlight for him once, can't remember. Anyway, he's been saying that he has "some Apple stuff for me" at his parents house for a couple of years now. Today, he texted me - this is what I'm going to pick up tomorrow at 10 AM. First, an Apple IIc! He says he has a working monitor for it, too! Another Apple II! This one is a IIe. The Apple II is outside of my wheel house, b
  18. Very sorry to see this. Another printer permanently taken out of circulation. I hope you can find another one. Does anyone ever save the little Apple badges off of these? I have a few that are pretty faded and would like to get some replacements.
  19. This is "SimCity 1.4g". I think it might be this version? 1.4g has run on my SE FDHD, Classic II, and now the LCII with no trouble. It also runs in Mini vMac emulating a Plus. I seem to have lost the color tile set for it. I'd also like to see if SimCity 2000 will run on this machine... I'd think that a 680LC40 with 6 mb of RAM would work, we'll see. And maybe I need to find that 68k port of Transport Tycoon? Too bad it's only in Japanese! Having a color machine opens up a lot of possibilities. As for the performance of the machine, I just wanted a Pizza Box Mac.
  20. This is just tragic. I've gotten to the point where I'm hesitant to buy anything from eBay for fear of receiving a machine in this condition. I'm so sorry this happened to you!
  21. Good to know! I'm all set, thanks! I bought a SuperDrive from someone here on the forum. Dual floppy drives is super handy. This morning, I powered on the LCII! Sadly, I got a chime of death, which I've never actually heard before. I had a feeling it wouldn't boot, as it had one stick of RAM installed. Apparently, the LCII requires pairs of RAM. I popped the stick out, and it booted right up. I was pleased to find that this model has 4 MB of RAM soldered to the logic board. I also think it has 512k of VRAM, as the monitor reports a resolution of 640
  22. Thanks! I would definitely consider using the "full submersion" method. Remove all metal parts, and make sure the parts don't float! That is key! As for the 68030... if there's a crack, this machine will never run, as it would likely be full of water. In-person, I don't remember seeing any cracks, so hopefully just an image artifact. Okay, time to tackle this "no video" problem. Ah, much better! So isopropyl alcohol fixed the "no video" problem right away. Between this and adding a fresh PRAM battery, I expect the video to work fine when I attem
  23. As a final prep step, I ran around with some desoldering braid and sucked up any remaining solder from the pads. This always leaves them nice and clean! Next, I applied a tiny bit of solder to one pad for each capacitor. I always hold my soldering iron in my dominant hand, and I tin the pad on whatever side will be the easiest to heat while I place the part. Iron in dominant hand, tweezers in non-dominant hand. Current me is SO happy that past me labeled this bag of parts! I ordered all of my capacitors off of Digikey. I always use tantalum cap
  24. During the week, the logic board happened to be sitting near the dishwasher while it was running. Here's what it looked like at the time: I decided to pop it in with the dishes, just for fun. I've never done this, but I do subject my logic boards to water all of the time, so why not. Fast forward to today, just after putting the Apple logo on the case: the logic board looked fine coming out of the dishwasher, but no cleaner if i'd just used soap, water, and a toothbrush. But it was fun to toss it in there for a bit. I think the soap had already
  25. This one actually came from Craigslist. I paid $100 for it along with a Performa 476 and empty external floppy enclosure. Since it was a nice, sunny day, I immediately put the top in the bin to retrobrite. We'll come back to that in a bit, let's deal with the shield on the bottom half of the case. More of the same, except I was surprised to find that the back part of the shield is actually two parts. I'm not sure how I'll hold this back in... probably some dabs of hot glue? We'll see when we get there. The bottom cleaned up pretty nicely.
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