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DeChief

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  1. Hi all, I recently got my UMAX Apus 2000 working (there was a lot of battery corrosion to clean up and some broken traces to bodge), and I'd like to backup the original hard drive before it dies. It's barely spinning up but is still bootable, what's the best way to go about this? My first thought was to dd it in Linux, but I haven't used Linux in years and don't know how to do that. Is there a program I can run on the Apus, after booting from floppy, that will let me create a hard drive image and save it to an external SCSI drive?
  2. Speak of the devil, this just popped up on eBay AU. M0001ED, interesting.
  3. I should have a photo somewhere. I'm planning on sorting through the myriad of HDDs sitting in my top drawer at some point this week, so I'll post it if I find it - from memory it's just E but I'm not certain!
  4. It did indeed exist, I had one for a while (unless it was faked somehow). At first I thought it was just a Plus with the lettering removed, but there was zero evidence of any chemicals being used where the letters used to be and the surface finish was identical to everything surrounding it. And here's a video of it on my instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/BmzbQTJFigA/ Unfortunately these photos are pretty low res, I probably have some better ones sitting on a hard drive somewhere if you'd like me to look.
  5. I've yet to see an LC575 locally that doesn't have at least one crack in the case, they're usually chipped on both top corners (or worse). It seems to be easier to find a good condition CC chassis in Australia. Also, I think many people prefer the size of the CC, the 575 is a lot larger in person than it appears in photos. There's a weird draw that Mystic CCs have... To me, it's because they're the closest you can get to a colour compact Mac.
  6. That would make sense, thanks. I've been having trouble with a Mac II that often refuses to boot until I've removed both CR2032s and the power cable, left it for 60secs, then put everything back in again. Right now it's not even booting after doing that...
  7. Does anyone know what the capacitor is for?
  8. If it helps, I sold a recapped 575 board in November last year with a full XC68040RC33M, 32MB RAM, and a laser cut clear acrylic CC back panel for $390 AUD + international postage. The board was in great condition with minor tarnishing on the rear ports, absolutely spotless PCB without any signs of cap/battery corrosion though.
  9. I'm glad my thread helped, this same problem was driving me crazy too! A friend suggested that I drop the cage as well but I didn't get around to trying that after I solved the problem by using another cage. Glad to hear that it works to demagnetise it.
  10. I'm not sure what you mean by locked or unlocked, is that a software thing or are you talking about the write-protect notch? Regardless, I managed to get the internal drive working perfectly! I tested with the external drive some more and realised that without the internal drive or cage, the further away the external drive was from the CRT, the more reliable it became (7cm+ was a good distance). I talked to a few friends about it and brought up your CRT interference theory, and they suggested that the drive cage could have become magnetised somehow, possibly by spending
  11. Completely understandable, I'm glad you told me about that though. I put the 512Ke back together last night and now with the cover on and everything, the external drive is happily booting both 400K and 800K floppies while the internal tries for a while and fails with one of several errors (mainly ID = 15 or 26). So if the CRT is causing these issues, what can even be done to fix it? Should I try my SE/30 tube in its place?
  12. I had considered that, but unless the drive is sensitive to a CRT with a millimetre or so of variation, it's unlikely to be the problem otherwise the Mac would have been designed very differently. It's in essentially the same position as it was from the factory. That also still wouldn't explain why the external drive is flakey despite being so far away from the CRT. Ah I see, I guess I've never used anything below System 6 before. EDIT: could the tube be leaking more than it's supposed to? I could try swapping in the tube from my SE/30, but that's a bit of a
  13. I picked up a free Mac 512Ke with extended keyboard and mouse 6 months ago and have only just now gotten around to messing with it. When I first got it home, it powered on to a question mark floppy, so naturally I was ecstatic to have just been given a free working Mac and put it on my shelf to be cleaned later. Fast forward to last week and it was throwing up a sad mac with error 028000, pointing to a faulty RAM chip at G12. So I de-soldered it and installed a socket in its place, and powering it up without the old chip gave me the same error. I ordered 3 new chips and installed o
  14. I swapped the monitor's tube into a Color Classic and the convergence was perfect, so I disassembled it further and discovered half of the caps on the board are leaking. Replacements are on the way, in the meantime I'm going to see how I can mount the tube in an SE case.
  15. It's running in 640 x 480 because that's what I set the ColorServer card and VGA adapter to. The monitor was advertised as SVGA but I haven't tested it with 800 x 600 yet, mainly because it has severe convergence issues and I was unable to adequately adjust the color rings after trying for 2 hours last night. I'm going to give it another shot later tonight, convergence adjustment is a real pain... I've only done it once before with my Commodore 1901 after re-capping it and it took me about 3 hours to dial it in - and I'm no perfectionist!
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