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  1. Wow...its interesting, I even owned an LC way back when and I do not remember it being this slow, maybe just happy to have color at that point.....
  2. I had increased the memory on my color classic today to 8 MB hoping for a speed bump. It's running System 7.1.1 and 32 bit addressing is on, on reading System 7.1.1 has 32 bit quickdraw built in. Abuse and Prince of Persia 2 are not playable secondary to the lag. I thought at least POP would run, is this everyone experience?
  3. Wait a second....isn't there a boot disc for the 128 K that lets you access the HD-20 (or HD-20 emulator) on the Floppy emu?
  4. That's awesome.....still looking for my barn find Amiga.
  5. The other thing here is the distances and bends in the cable., the right length to bend, flex and close the screen .....Do you have a picture of the back of the lcd w cable in place?
  6. Yeah! Great job and good eyes....So there is hope...I would try the same except for the part about "be careful plugging and unplugging the tab connector as they (the tab contacts) can (eventually) displace"........its pretty cramped in there but looking at taking the header off of the inverter board and soldering straight to the board.
  7. Nice...be careful plugging and unplugging the tab connector as they can (eventually) displace especially after you solder to it. I tried some of this but not as clean as you are to this point, it semi worked but it was so tedious I haven't gotten back to it. Still kicking myself for not being more careful putting the hinge cover back on. I will be curious to see how it works out as far as using the same gauge wire for power/grounding/signals as they are different sizes and separated in the original ribbon cabe.
  8. Thanks for the link it was very helpful, sorry to repeat up information that is already out there. ....I have the same video card that you have and it inspired me to reassess and I found that I can shut the case with the 500 watt power supply mounted in that area. So the power supply swap worked.....on with the original power button, resets with a power button hold down, used an external power adapter for the display. The ATX to MDD adapter board was handy primarily because it has a standby/on button that allows you to turn on the power supply and test all of the voltages on the MDD molex be
  9. My video card is full length, it’s looking like the largest power supply I’m going to be able to put in and get the case closed (and keep cost under 40 bucks) is 350 watts. Searches say this if ok if you are not using adc to power a monitor. Still have to build the cable and test it on a 500 watt power supply before springing for a 350 watt to fit in case.
  10. Going to try this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBU2C64/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this http://atxg4.com/mdd.html To any electricians out there, if I used a separate DC power supply of 25 volts to pin 14 in parallel with the atx power supply could I still use the adc power for adc monitors?. If the dc supply pugged into the same outlet as the ATX are they grounded the same?
  11. Any news or follow up on the silver door G4 power supply repair or replacement successes?
  12. I had never known of the Twiggy Mac before this thread. Looking forward to the rest. Thanks.
  13. This looks like one of those deals where OldMacGuy disappears and this thread disappears and its all best if no one asks any more questions.
  14. May or may not be helpful to your exact problem but pretty good series right now on troubleshooting several Mac classics....go to YouTube and search Adrian’s Digital Basement
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