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  1. There is some kind of coating, but I don’t know exactly what. I applied naval jelly to my SE/30 metallics, due to localized corrosion from a Maxell bomb. It completely removed the dull coating, leaving naked steel - which promptly rusted. All of it. Epic fail.
  2. That is fantastic! I love this forum!
  3. Solved - bad PMU or PMU cable. I replaced the logic board, but the problem remained. I replaced the PMU board and PMU cable, and all the keyboards now work. In this model, the trackpad connects to the PMU board. The PMU board connector leads from the logic board to both the PMU board and the inverter. How this affects the keyboard, which has its own connector, is beyond my ability to reason. Too bad for me, all the futzing around with the logic board connector of the first motherboard resulted in a broken pin on what turned out to be a perfectly g
  4. I have a PowerBook G4 500 (M5884) that is having a logic board keyboard issue. The tab, command, left arrow, up arrow, and delete keys (and probably some others) do not work. I have tried multiple keyboards, and all work normally with a different PowerBook G4. I have tried heating the logic board connector leads after application of flux. The pads and leads look great, but no difference. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  5. I’ve never been able to get my Rocket to work in 32 bit mode. Thanks for the info; I’ll try reducing RAM on the IIfx I have it installed in.
  6. I am wondering where people obtain parts for repairing PowerBooks. My sources have been: 1. eBay (of course) - a mixed bag, but tonyzz has been reliable consistently. 2. www.PowerBookmedic.com - running low on supplies. I‘ve had mixed results from them, but have found customer service to respond quickly and satisfactorily to problems. I recently ordered their last two blowers for the 867MHz/1GHz TiBook. One of the items was a fan for the 800MHz TiBook. Mere hours after contacting them about it, they had refunded half the order and shipping costs. 3.
  7. It was bit of a pain to do, and involved the almost total disassembly of the Powerbook. ifixit.com is very helpful for this. I stuck a flat metal tool under the speaker and gently pushed until the speaker was free. I then rubbed the adhesive off the speaker, and applied 3M 300LSE transfer tape to adhere the speaker to its new speaker grille.
  8. In my case, it turned out that the known good replacement speaker was, in fact, also bad; perhaps a casualty of the extraction from its previous case top.
  9. I could use some advice regarding what steps to take in the following problem: I have a TiBook G4 1GHz board in a banged-up case that I want to put into a new case (sold as new by Sunshine Express on eBay). In the old case, both audio channels work. In the new case, only the left channel works; there is no sound at all out of the right channel. Two other logic boards do the same thing in this new case. Steps taken: Step 1: Replaced both speakers with known working ones (the logic board connects to the left speaker which then sends a signal to the rig
  10. Posting a year after the prior post for the sake of posterity: Operation Headgap sells feet for PowerMacs of the 7200/7300/7500/7600/8600/9600/first generation G3 variety. They are black, and have been cut from a piece of rubber. The ones I received were somewhat irregularly shaped, and needed further trimming. If you don't want to do the research or work yourself, it's one way to go.
  11. I agree. However, since I am the first person to respond in 13 years, I doubt it will come about.
  12. Try a different formatting software. In experiments back in 2012 with as many formatters as I could find, I had the best luck formatting CF, SD, and PCMCIA cards with FWB Hard Disk Toolkit version 2.02. I downloaded it from the Daystar website days before the website disappeared, but later found the website on web.archive.org. Unfortunately, my work on 68k Macs has been on hold since 2012. If I can find my notes from back then, I’ll update this post with an actual website.
  13. Be very careful if you try this. I ruined a beautiful SE/30 board attempting this. I ended up pulling out about a dozen vias.
  14. If you are willing to replacing only the LCD part of the screen, a replacement LCD is available at www.impactcomputers.com. I bought a refurbished 14” LCD (model LT141X2-124) for a total of $27 including shipping. The screen is bright, but there is a slightly yellow discoloration of the bottom 1/2 inch - just a bit paler a discoloration than the screen it replaced (and just a bit disappointing; I was hoping for a perfect screen). The fix isn’t difficult - just remove the rubber stops and the round stickers from around the screen, gently pry off the back, unscrew four
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