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About Iesca

  • Birthday March 25

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    Los Angeles, CA

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  1. I have not tried this just yet, but I will report my findings once I do!
  2. It lives! After cross-posting on the Mac Garden's Discord, a fellow user suggested that they had experienced the same thing, but that simply leaving the iMac plugged into the outlet for awhile seemed to resolve the power-on issue. I decided to give this a shot and, after a few days (with intermittent testing), it suddenly sprang to life today! At first it struggled to stay on past the Disk First Aid screen, but after waiting until later in the evening, it turned on—and stayed on! I've navigated around the old hard drive, even run a DVD, and it all seems to be working great. Hard drive is
  3. I'm having the same issue with my newly acquired iMac G3 DV SEs. I have acquired three of them that seem to have been stored for about 20 years inside of a warehouse (two in their original boxes), and which were used perhaps only a few times before being shelved. Unfortunately, all three have exhibited the symptoms as described by @IlikeTech whereby the CRT attempts to power up, and there's a pop in the speakers, but nothing else happens. I actually have replaced nearly every capacitor in one of the iMacs for its logic board, the PSU, the downconverter board, AND the CRT board. Having don
  4. Wow, getting it to work with 7.1.x would be a dream!
  5. @equant Did you end up having any luck with this?
  6. Thank you for the link!
  7. Alas it does not for me. If you found a link, please share.
  8. I have the same quantum 540S a mentioned above (a Quantum ProDrive LDS to be precise). What kind of jumpers should I use to assign the SCSI ID? Regular jumpers would be too tall for these pins. Also, an ID diagram would be helpful if anyone has one...
  9. I've had the chirping for awhile now in my Plus, it's driving me nuts. I've replaced so many components on the analog board, caps, resistors, diodes, transistors, ICs; I'm just at a loss. Even the axial caps on the logic board. Am I just gonna have to bite the bullet and buy one of those new flybacks for $100? And yet, when I completely disconnect the crt from the analog board, it continues to chirp.... As for the Plus's vinyl protector, I bought the plastic snaps recommended at some point in another thread, and they work great! (After cleaning off the tape residue)
  10. Has anybody rebuilt an iBook G4 battery pack? From the following article, opening the iBook G3's battery pack is relatively straightforward: https://www.instructables.com/id/Apple-Ibook-G3-battery-repair/ But no such luck for the G4's battery pack, which is sealed shut, rather closed with screws. If anybody has any advice on opening one, please let me know!
  11. Saved you both the trouble! HD20 Rodime Controller Board Electrolytic Capacitor List C38: 47µf 16v C41: 10µf 35v C42: 10µf 35v C43: 47µf 16v C46: 10µf 35v C48: 47µf 16v C49: 47µf 16v C50: 47µf 16v Total: 3X 10µf 35v 5X 47µf 16v (PS. I found HD Diag!)
  12. I just received these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Macintosh-128k-512k-Plus-Classic-SE-analog-board-Fasteners-Pushpin/264047221390 They appear to be very similar to the ones mentioned by @gpbonneau above. The ones I bought (which ship from the Netherlands) worked great with my Plus, and you don't need to buy a hundred of them at once!
  13. In searching around I found this document: http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/apple/service/PN_072-0228_Apple_Service_Technical_Procedures_Macintosh_Family_Volume_One-Mar_1992.pdf On page 390 in the pdf, a table refers to the diagram on the previous page; item no. 2, part number 830-0270 "Rivet, Nylon Snap-In, Black" So that's what it was called internally anyway, maybe that will help! Nothing really comes up with a cursory google.
  14. Iesca

    M0110A Repair

    I haven't, I don't actually have a meter to check with. But the whole keyboard is dead, not just the ones I installed.
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