Jump to content


68kMLA Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mjhagen

  • Birthday 11/15/1978

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Amsterdam, NL

Profile Fields

    Web dev from Amsterdam

Recent Profile Visitors

800 profile views
  1. I have nothing to add, just... wow! Amazing work!
  2. Hi bibilit, yeah, I've recapped the logic board (and all the other boards) as well.
  3. After recapping the screen (which didn’t show an image before) I see it flash the diagonal lines screen and sometimes even a gray-with-cursor screen. After that it just shows a black screen with the backlight on. On pressing the reset button it goes straight to the black screen, only when I remove the power and reapply it (from a bench power supply) it flashes the diagonal lines/gray screen. Does anyone have an idea where I should look next to try and fix this?
  4. Hi all, I was recapping an SE's Rev A analog board and found a diode soldered between CR4 and a resistor I can't see the designation of, and a capacitor between that diode and R26. Is that a modification to basically mod it into a Rev B? Can anyone shed some light on to what this does exactly? Thanks, Mingo.
  5. haha, no I know just got me on the right track.
  6. @techknight, you are my hero. After desoldering the three caps below J12 (just so I could have a better look at the traces that run underneath them I spotted 1 going between C8 and J12 that had the protective layer removed and that had probably shorted C8. cleaned everything up again, put a piece of kapton tape over the trace and resoldered the caps and now it boots again!
  7. oh wait, that's not the SWIM, that's GLUE. The trace runs between the right channel sony chip and the GLUE chip. SWIM is UJ11 of course. Still, I'll check the area around C9-10.
  8. @MikeatOSX I scrolled (ha) through the Dead Mac Scrolls but couldn't find this particular issue. @techknight I'm pretty positive, according to schematics I could find it is called BRST and I'm guessing that means something-reset? Thanks for pointing me to the SWIM (UI8, so it could still be my patch that screwed something up), I'll focus my next bit of debugging on that area.
  9. I did some more research into the issue (good chime, gray pattern, no pointer), but so far haven't found that particular combination. The ones I did find are: [no chime, gray patter, no pointer] -> RP2 filter [good chime, gray pattern, pointer] -> RP10 filter Both measure (using resistance) the same as my known-good board, so I think the filters are good. Sources for above symptoms: https://web.archive.org/web/20160306072255/http://www.biwa.ne.jp:80/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html http://www.maccaps.com/MacCaps/Repair_books_files/Mac Classic %26
  10. Hi all, I have three SE/30s, one works flawlessly (Mac A), one boots into the OS but has sound has issues (Mac B, I have another topic about this one), but my issue is with the latest one (Mac C): When I got it, I did a superficial check and turned it on and it booted (without chime) into the screen. It looked pretty corroded (and no sound) so I decided on a cleaning and recap. After the recap was done, I got a nice clean chime, but now it no longer booted to the screen (see video.) During the recap I noticed the corrosion had eaten away the trace next to th
  11. I have a few compact Macs that are missing various screws and I'd like to make them complete again. Does anyone have details on size, thread count, etc on the types of mounting screws used in (at least) the SE, SE/30 and Classic? So, these are the two different ones outside (silver and black torx) and I think 2, or 3 different Phillips-head screws inside mounting the A/B to the chassis, mounting the expansion bracket to the main chassis and the ones mounting the PSU (on the SEs) and I'm not sure, but I think the ground wire has its own screw type. I've tried to find such info in different
  12. @Johnnya101, Yeah I thought the same! Thanks again, they fit extremely well!
  13. The spinning part can get pushed in and it then catches on the housing, you should be able to wiggle it free. I don’t remember if you need to disassemble most of it before you can reach that part, but I know I did. I used one of those iPhone repair kit plectrums to get between the housing and the spinner.
  • Create New...