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About mtm84

  • Birthday February 14

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  1. Installation is not difficult Linux wise but its definitely a command line affair, but pretty straight forward. Hardest part is probably setting up the partitions. Two things that will need finessing is wifi and graphics. Wifi is supported with airport but it might be difficult to get 802.11b talking to a modern router with a password. Ethernet works fine out of the box. Graphics are another mess. Console is supported by the framebuffer of course, but getting 2D acceleration is neigh impossible, neither mach64 nor rage128 are well supported in modern Linux kernels, and if you are doing a
  2. My icebook 500 is working just fine, though admittedly its running Void Linux instead of OS 9. Still even get about an hour out of the original battery! I should try dual booting it but with a 10 gig hard drive, there isn't a lot of space for both.
  3. Small update, finally got around to ordering the parts, just waiting for them to get here. In the mean time I decided to try starting it up, and managed to get a chime and a gray screen, but then there's some crackling from the AB and it goes blank again. So not sure if that's more bad caps on the AB that I haven't replaced yet, or just related to the the power control IC. But hearing a chime is good news to mean since it means the logic board gets as fair as reading the rom chips. I think. edit: I should add that while it did chime, the hard drive did not spin up. I know the
  4. I don't think I've ever seen an old used mac at the three goodwill's near me. I'm not sure they even sell computer stuff in general any more. I need to tell 21 year old me to buy up all this stuff back then.
  5. Yes I cleaned the LB with 99% IPA. Checked all the caps on it as well and some seem connected to ground but without a schematic I have no idea if that's supposed to happen or not, so I'm kind of probing blind here. Got some digikey or mouser part numbers I can look at for the diodes and IC's?
  6. Re soldered C4, and recapped most of the Analog Board, still no boot chime, blank screen. Volts from the hard drive connector still reading low. 4.50 and 11.50 with the motherboard hooked up, 5.12 and 11.10 without the motherboard hooked up. Case fan turns on, and that's about it. Not sure what I'm going to check next.
  7. Not particularly pretty but as far as I could tell with a multi-meter all the solder connections were solid. The bodge wire on C9 is embarrassing though and i just noticed some corrosion on the ADB port by C3. so I will probably have to clean under there and re-solder that, which I'm not looking forward to but it will give me a chance to take a better look at C3.
  8. Guess I will have to see if I get more life after recapping the Analog Board. Would be discouraging if I fried the logic board replacing its caps
  9. I mean exactly what it says on the tin. Screen was blank, like it had no power at all. I am currently waiting on new caps from mouser, and in the mean time have removed the old caps and cleaned up the board. only a few of the caps were leaking but could be the cause. I'm not entirely convinced that I don't have a short in the board somewhere either from one of the replacement caps, but it will be a few days before I'll be able to try again.
  10. Got 80 bucks? http://www.memoryx.com/pb140024.html Though I would call or email them first, they don't always actually have items in stock when they say they do. That's the price you pay for making your own ram I guess.
  11. Using a multi meter and probing the molex connector, i got the following voltages: 10.85 on the orange, and 4.68 on the red. Pretty sure that's well outside the normal range of 12 and 5. Guess the analog board is up for a recap for sure. edit: after letting it sit on for a bit I ended up around 4.75 and 11 volts. Still to low. Also the popping sound stopped, but it doesn't chime at all now and the screen is dead. So I assume something burned out but I'm not sure what.
  12. So I found some very nice and clear pictures in this thread, and I was able to get a very small wire connecting the cap to the via at the end of the trace for c9. Trying to turn it on the first time after recapping the board, I got a start up chime, but then heard some electrical pops and decided to turn it off. trying to turn it on again results in the same popping sound and no chime. Before I re cap the analog board, is it possible I have a short in the motherboard? What is the standard behavior for a classic II with not motherboard in it at all? Another issue, when I took ou
  13. I got a Classic II that just displayed a checkerboard pattern. In the process of replacing the mother board caps with tantalums I managed to lift off both pads of capacitor C9. Does anyone know where those traces go so I can wire it up? Or should I just not bother now?
  14. There is small metal clip that supports the original CPU card just fine, but it doesn't do my upgrade any good since this particular one is a very small board compared to some of the other upgrades I've seen. It's no wider then the CPU socket itself. Everything is pretty tight though and there isn't much play in the card.
  15. So a bit of an update, I never did figure out why the upgrade liked some ram in some slots but not in others. Seeing as how it works with the 512 megs I have and I don't plan on maxing it, I'm not going to worry too much about it. As an FYI for things mentioned above, I did not see any signs of contact corrosion, I did use compressed air to blow them out but didn't try any contact cleaner or the like. I had already disabled speculative access as well as reapplying the heat sink with fresh thermal material, mostly because I had to replace the small fan that came with it when I broke a couple
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