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max1zzz

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About max1zzz

  • Birthday 01/05/1997

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    Surrey, England

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  1. OK..... I think I have found the issue and I'm a little embarrassed as to what it was, turns out it was a cold solder joint on one of the termination resistors..... I designed the board using 0603 resistors forgetting the reel or 110ohm resistors I had where 0805, turns out bodgeing 0805's onto 0603 pads isn't the best idea! My PB145B now boots from my Pi Zero powered RaSCSI just fine And the board (ignore that bodge wire - it is a leftover from debugging and is not needed) I need to add a anti backfeed diode to the +5v rail on the board to stop the P
  2. If they are form ITEAD they are genuine, if they are form anyone else they are knockoffs
  3. So my boards arrived a few days ago, unfortunately the bad news is they don't seem to work, both my powerbook 100 and 145B refuse to boot from it, the 74LS641's also seem to be getting pretty warm which doesn't seem right! I'm a bit lost as to what the issue is right now, I can't see and obvious errors in the board but since this is based on design we know works I must have made a error somewhere!
  4. My 2.5x2 converted to air cooling had pretty high temps but they where fairly constant IIRC (I actually think one of my modules might have had a bad temp sensor). I would personally check the cards are making good contact with the heatsink's, if they are and the machine seems stable I probably wouldn't worry too much, these machines aren't designed to run with aircooling so they will run hotter than hey would normally
  5. Very nice! As for extension cables, iirc you can get a normal 20pin ATX extension cable and just use one side of it (I haven't tried this personally though)
  6. Well, Just sent to board off to JLCPCB Hopefully they work fine
  7. I'm in need of some 2.5" SCSI drives, SCSI2SD is a option but they are pretty expensive and not often available at all I have been vaguely following RaSCSI's developments for a while so I figured what better time to jump in It's largely just a copy of landoGriffin's board with just a 40pin 2.0mm header except I swapped the termination for the scheme I used on my SCA - > 50Pin adapters as it uses less resistors and I go mad soldering SMD resistors after a while! I need to double check my measurements before sending it for production as the board is pretty tight in
  8. Thanks! Just tried that, drive is now seeking but not booting (I got the happy mac once or twice and even the welcome to macintosh screen once but it froze on boot) Will make a boot floppy tomorrow and see if it works after formatting
  9. it's a 40mb conner. It seems to have trouble spinning up to full speed, sometimes it will only spin up for a second and spin back down and then repeat this 3-4 times before sounding like it has got up to full speed but the drive never tries to seek, I have tried removing the top of the dive and giving the arm a very gentle nudge out of the park position (This has worked for me a few times in the past) but the drive just spins down as soon as I do this
  10. Got the board mostly recapped (Just need to get the 4.7uf cap and the radials as I didn't have them in stock) and gave it a trip through the ultrasonic cleaner PowerBook now seems to be poring on just fine Unfortunately the HD is bad though so I'm going to have to figure something out there, the only real option i am aware of (other than trying to source another 2.5" scsi drive) is the 2.5" scsi2sd but that is both pretty expensive and I can't actually find it in stock anywhere.
  11. I managed to get the brick apart in the end, I managed to crack enough of the seam apart with the mallet to be able to slide a putty knife between the two half's of the brick and separate it The news is not good though, all caps where leaking badly and where replaced however I still got no output from the brick, a bit of probing revealed the main mosfet on the primary side of the brick is a dead short between all 3 legs. The mosfet is still produced new however I have little experience repairing switch mode supplies outside replacing caps so I think I'm going to seek out a modern s
  12. Anyone got any advise on how to crack the power brick open without destroying it? My usual method of a few sturdy whacks with a mallet is not proving to be very successful and I suspect trying to prise along the seam will just end up mangling the plastic I'll be stripping and hopefully recapping the PowerBook later today, unfortunately all the rubber on the PB has turned to goo so I'm not going to be able to get the feet out and get the the screws underneath without destroying the feet
  13. Picked picked up fairly nice looking PB100 on eBay a few days ago, Seller was fairly local to me so shipping was fairly quick Got it today and luckily it survived shipping OK (The packaging was not the best I have ever seen, but was far from the worst!) I can't test it yet as the power adapter for it is not working, I'll have to crack that open and have a look at it. From what I remember these machines suffer quite badly form capacitor leakage so I'll be stripping and recapping it over the next few days, Hopefully the 2.5" scsi HDD in it is ok as I think a 2.5" scsi2sd would cost mor
  14. I believe you can use a standard 20/24 pin ATX extension cable and just use the pins one one side of it I haven't personally tested this though as I don't have a SE/30
  15. Which size did you end up using? I have had issues with the 1.2mm PCB's, wondering if 1.6mm is the way to go or if it is better sticking with 1.2mm and bodgeing something together when they are too loose in the slot
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