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Posts posted by LaPorta

  1. Thanks, Matt. I have a bit of an update.


    So, The four caps that appear to be in the sound area (the sound input from the CD drive plugs in nearby, and it is right behind the sound output jack), I desoldered them, cleaned the pads, resoldered, cleaned the terminals on the caps...basically made them the spiffiest, cleanest cap job I ever could. Played some Marathon for maybe 30 minutes or so, everything seemed great. Then...crackling from the internal speaker! So, I experimented a little. I shut off the AudioVision speakers, and just kept dinging the alert sound. So, during the crackling, sometimes you can hear the alert fade in and then back out. Sometimes when the crackling stops, there is no sound, and other times when it stops the sound then is just clear. Is it possible one of the caps is just bad, a manufacturing issue that was not picked up because it doesn't appear until the thing is sufficiently warmed up? But...which one if so? Plus, are the four caps in that area the only ones that deal with sound?


    I wish schematics for this thing existed.


    Any other suggestions would be helpful.

  2. Hey everyone,


    So, I just finished an overhaul of my AudioVision 14", and then turned to my 6100 DOS to get it back in shape. Absolutely no issues prior to recap, just preventative. Caps removed easy: no lifted pads. Replaced them all with same spec 47 µf, 16V organic polymer surface mount caps. No issues so far. Now, when I use the machine, after a while (presumably when it heats up), I start getting all this crazy loud crackling through the internal speaker. I have the thing hooked to the AudioVision and it does the crazy dance through the cable converter via the PC Card cable, etc, and there is a speaker mini plug plugged in the back, so the internal speaker should automatically just cut out. The sound through the AudioVision is crystal clear - it works just fine. It is just the internal speaker with this crazy crackling. It comes and goes, and is worse the longer the machine is on. So to sum up, get good, normal computer sound via the AudioVision while simultaneously getting crackling through the internal speaker.


    I suspected some bad soldering on my part, so I desoldered, cleaned, fluxed, and desoldered them all. To be fair, one was somewhat loose. So, I double-checked and desoldered all 13 of them. Started the machine w/o the AudioVision hooked up - got a good startup sound through the internal speaker. Thought I was good, but after 5-10 minutes, the crackling came back again. Not sure what is up with this. Only the caps were touched, nothing else. Could I have accidentally hit something else? Maybe, but what? What else would cause this out of nowhere? Otherwise the machine is 100% functional, and the DOS card works perfectly as well.


    Any guidance would be super helpful!

  3. Re: disassembly - yes, indeed, the logic board to analog board connector can be fraught with danger due to the proximity to the CRT neck. In my opinion, you are actually safer taking the neck board off if unsure because 1. It makes the clearance greater, and 2. It takes away a source of a 90 degree sheer force on the back of the CRT. With time, you will develop your own technique to pull it without damage. As for the card, id remove the daughter board (with the monitor connector) and it’s ribbon or whatever connects it first. Then, you should be able to slide out the logic board and the accelerator (I assume

    it sits right on top of the logic board). One note: these logic boards don’t slide out like the Plus. They slide out maybe an inch, and then if you look at the frame, one side of rails the board slides on is keyed: indentations that match up with indentations on the logic board perfectly if it is lined up right. Once they are lined up, swing the logic board out from the keyed side and it should pull out entirely. One note: once you swing it out a Little, you will likely feel resistance. That is the speaker audio cable still connected. Be sure to detach this prior to swinging the board all the way out, or you could bend the pins on the male logic board jack.


    As did the floppy drive, I’ve got a video guide you can use:



  4. What Matt said, but usually my MO is this: when I get a machine with a working HD, I connect it somehow via network or external SCSI to another drive. I then make a DiskCopy image of the entire HD. I then proceed to reformat the entire thing and install a fresh system on a blank HD. At my leasure, I can then peruse the old stuff and reintroduce things if I wish.

  5. There are a few more things going on here that I can visually see.


    1. Your second battery holder is completely gone. The machine won't start without it's two PRAM batteries.


    2. There ARE two SMD electrolytic caps which also seems to be gone on yours. They are capacitors C9 and C24, which are located in the upper-right hand corner by the startup circuit, and to the right of the RAM slots above the axial electrolytic, respectively.


    Compare your board with the photos from mine which I resotred less than a year ago.




    By the way, are you sure the thing wasnt partially submerged in water? That is an insane amount of corrosion on the RFI shielding. I guess it's possible?

  6. 10 hours ago, Garrett said:

    First, sorry for the double post. Your post didn't appear until after I replied to maceffects.


    Here's the link to the Cinema HD Display listing. DVI? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/769947730263016/

    Looks right. There has to be a 1-2 step of adapters youcould use. I've never done it, though.


    I also second the advice on the solid polymers. Look OEM, but won't ever "leak" all over your boards.

  7. Cinema display with what sort of connector? You mean the LED Cinema DIsplay with Mini Displayport? I still use my 2010 LED Cinema Display 27" with my new 2020 iMac. Just need a Mini DisplayPort to USB-C adapter. Can be found for relatively cheap on Amazon.

  8. It sounds to me like the head of the 1400 drive is misaligned. This is the common symptom: floppies can’t be read on it unless formatted on it. Then those disks formatted on it can’t be read by other machines. If the head is misaligned, then the tracks will be laid down slightly off-kilter, so the other drives can’t read them.


    What I can’t tell you is how to fix it: I know how to do it with the Sony drives, but definitely not a tiny, expansion bay 1400 drive. I’m sure it’s the same procedure, but I don’t know how to open one of those. Someone here likely will.

  9. First, what System version is this machine using? You need certain System files and revisions to even get on the internet. Some version of Open Transport is needed. After that, then, yes, finding a compatible web browser, probably from Macintosh Garden, would then be my choice for what to do and how to start.

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