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Found 141 results

  1. Hi All, One of my SE/30s is getting its motherboard recapped and this is what is PSU looks like with leaky goo: The machine has a new old stock analog board and will have the following when completed: Micron Video card with grayscale adaptere Daystar 50 mhz accelerator that goes plugs into the socketed motherboard Asante Ethernet Given this planned configuration, would you recommend getting the PS recapped or heading down the path of hacking in an ATX power supply? FWIW, reecapping is not in my skill set but I think I could follow along to do the ATX if it is just soldering some wires. TIA for the input! ~Von
  2. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    I need a new PSU for my SE/30, and it would be best if I got a modern one that supplies more power than the stock PSU. Any idea what ARTMIX could be using? (I doubt they made a custom designed power supply just for the SE/30. It certainly must be an off-the-shelf model, I would think.) http://www.artmix.com/hps_2009_EVO.html There are two +12V outputs, one being for the SWEEP. I assume these are isolated? For why offer two +12V output's instead of one powerful +12V unless they are needed to be isolated (to avoid noise issues)? I might be able to afford one PSU from ARTMIX, but I'd really like more than one since I have more than one SE/30. But at $200 a pop, that's too expensive, which is why I am posting here to see if anyone might know of a PSU that would fit inside the stock metal case and offer the same 4 outputs as the stock, but with higher current ratings. It's amazing to me that despite all the hundreds if not thousands of us who own and love SE/30's, you don't find any "rebuilt" PSUs for the SE/30 for some reason (outside ARTMIX). That implies that nearly every SE/30 owner on this planet is either using a stock PSU, or possibly a recapped PSU (which would not put out more power than a new stock PSU, which isn't designed for that many add-ons). The reason I seek a modern PSU inside the stock metal PSU enclosure is to cover any power requirement, regardless of the add-ons I add inside (HDD, PDS cards, etc.) I therefore look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks.
  3. Dimitris

    Daystar Turbo 040 problem

    Hi, I'm new to this forum as a signed user, but I've read a lot of forum's postings due to my interest in SE/30 I would like to hear your opinion to a problem that I'm facing with my SE/30 and Daystar Turbo 040. First let me tell you the upgrades that my SE/30 has. I have replace the standard hdd with an Apples 2GB scsi. I put 8 x 16MB simms so total ram is 128MB I replace the power supply with one from Stratos The first card in the PDS slot is an Asante Ethernet. The second card is a Daystar Dualport iisi, which with a paper clip i have connect pin 11 & 13 (using a tape) of the PDS-slot for the Daystar Accelarators. In the PDS-slot for the Daystar Accelarators i have connect a Daystar Powercache P33 running at 50Mhz To connect the second card to Asante i used a right angle 120-pin connector The third card is a Radius Pivot PDS Card with 1MB video ram. To connect the third card to Dualport, I used a right angle 120-pin connector. I bought from ebay a Daystar Turbo 040, so to replace the Powercache P33. But when i connect the Turbo040 and powering up the machine, horizontal black and white lines appear in the screen. I have tried with no other cards and no HDD, only motherboard, the Dualport and the Turbo040 but with same results. I have to mention that when i first bought the SE/30 sometimes produces these horizontal black and white lines when powering up. but after a while this phenomena stop. In addition to this, the sound never worked. I can't hear anything from SE/30. I have cleaned the motherboard with alcohol mixture 95% that i bought from pharmacy, using a tooth brush. Many thanks in advance for any replies.
  4. To all interested parties. I have downloaded the SE/30 schematics and they appear to be a bitmap (black and white only) scan of what I gather are the original documents. I am more than willing to recreate the documents in Adobe Illustrator and upload them to the WIKI but before I take on the task. Are there already vector versions of the schematics floating around somewhere, in which case my effort would not be worthwhile. Could someone be so kind to fill in this gap of knowledge so that I can take on the task or abandon it for obvious reasons. Also, if schematic modernization is indeed worth pursuing please point me to all the versions of the document(s) that I should use as templates. This is what I did find, https://museo.freaknet.org/gallery/apple/stuff/mac/andreas.kann/SE30_P3.GIF, there are a total of 9 GIF documents at that URL. Any further info would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards —Alex Santos
  5. OK, so I recently recapped my SE/30 mainboard and it went smoothly, and it resolved a weak sound issue. Little guy worked just fine. Great, I thought, I'll get ahead of the curve and recap my (Astec) PSU and analog board. That goes smoothly as well, and I resoldered a few grey-looking connectors on the ab while I was at it. Reassemble, power on... thin vertical simasimac and no chime. Weird, but OK, time for some obvious checks: - checked voltages, all rock solid coming off the ab, and the usual checks on the mb - double checked the ROM SIM and make sure it's clean and seated. A few greyish pads toward one end, clean them up, do a iso clean of the slot, dry it out, test some continuities, seems ok, reassemble, no change - check continuities on some IC's I reflowed (UE8 for instance), all good There are other paths I can go down, but I have a question: what is the likelihood that the PSU or ab recap could be the cause of this? It's the only thing that changed from a working SE/30 to now. I'm going to wash the mb one more time to be sure, but it WAS working before now, so I'm unsure. I know coincidences are more common that I'd like, but it's not the first place to be looking... so... thoughts? The only possibly weird thing I'm noticing is a series of about 8 very faint clicks coming from either the ab or psu a few seconds after power on... I'm not sure if that's normal or not.
  6. So I have a bit of a problem I recently acquired an SE/30 that was showing symptoms of vertical failure - on boot up it only displayed a single horizontal line. After reflowing the joints on the P1 connector, replacing the TDA1170 on the analog board without any improvement I finally put my SE logic board in the case to verify that it wasn't an analog board. What do you know it wasn't, the analog board on the SE/30 worked perfectly. After probing the logic board with a multimeter, I found that the video PAL IC responsible for generating Vsync (part number 341-0747-A) just wasn't outputting anything. The 60.25hz vertical sync signal was missing. This led me to source a replacement video PAL, which unfortunately didn't change the output whatsoever. It still has a complete loss of vertical sync. I have also checked every single connection in the area in accordance to the SE/30s schematics, and I am now at a complete loss. I am thinking it could be the 74xx series ICs by the video PALs, but quite frankly I have no idea (unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope). Hopefully someone has encountered this before and can figure it out! Also when a boot floppy is inserted it seems to boot from it (obviously I can't see whats going on but it does react to the keyboard commands to eject the floppy) Finally I just want to stress that this is NOT an analog board issue. My SEs logic board works perfectly fine in the SE/30s case, and the SE/30 still has no vertical when it is in the SE case. 73DE0BC8-6743-41B1-9065-488FA237AF45.heic
  7. Since I am not too shy about asking for help with my myriad Quadra issues, one of the things that has been going great is my SE/30 (edit - until last week!) Here's my setup: SE/30 recapped running System 7.5.3, Mac OS 8.1 and A/UX 3.1.1 (the latter requires me to disable the 040 card) SCSI2SD (8 GB) 128 MB RAM ("new" 30-pin all purchased from MemoryX.com) BMOW ROM-inator II SIMM w/ Turbo040 driver courtesy of @olePigeon Bolle's "short" PDS adapter Asanté MacCon SE/30 Daystar Digital Turbo040 @33 MHz On my wish list: Some soldering skills to put a right-angle adapter on my "tall" Bolle adapter so I can add my Pivot IIsi (or Pivot SE/30 but don't think that will fit) for external video A working ROM image to include what I have plus the ROM disk driver (so, 68000 assembly skills) I'm really hard-pressed to come up with anything else until one of the geniuses here builds that NuBus breakout box. I took the pics a couple of weeks ago... I could leave it on for hours on end (1-bit B&W but I prefer After Dark, Star Trek:TNG) but literally, in the last few days I'm getting a slow death chime and the Simasimac. I'm hoping it's just a loose RAM SIMM or the very-finicky ROM SIMM needs to be shimmed up again. I'm not too worried unless it's something crazy like the power supply or logic board fuse. If nothing else - I can look at the pictures and sigh! Thanks for letting me share! This particular SE/30 is in great physical shape with very little discoloring and is really my favorite.
  8. Hi I've been having some issues with trying to replace the old IDE HDD on my 630CD with a Compact Flash drive. I acquired the following hardware: - IDE 2 CF adapter: http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=384(supports UDMA) - 4GB SanDisk Ultra Compact Flash card (works fine in DSLR camera and via USB to iMac). - 4 pin Molex (HDD->FDD) cable (to supply power to the adapter board). On the software side, I have used Apple's (IDE) Drive Setup software from my 7.5.3 install CD (and other versions). This will recognise the "IDE" or "ATA" bus and the attached compact flash card is 4GB in size, and let me set the drive's partitions (went for 1 and then 2 at less that 2GB size each, if that could be an issue). However, whenever I try to initialize the drive (with or without a low level format first), it gets through the process (quite long when formatting 4GB!!), but at the end it says it's failed to initialise and thus won't mount the new drive(s). I have tried formatting the CF flash card on my iMac G3 via a USB-CF adapter (OS 10.4.1 Tiger, formatted HFS not HFS+). This worked fine and I was able to transfer files to the CF drive and back (so the hardware looks good) but when I attached this to my 630CD's IDE interface , it was not recognised. (NB: the IDE drive works fine, so it's not a cabling issue in the 630CD side). Any ideas? NB: I have read the various links here and elsewhere on related issues, (i.e. this is not a dual CF adapter, etc), though most of the other threads seem to be focussed on SCSI-CF adapters (is there a problem with IDE-CF I am not aware of?).
  9. Hi there, Recently, I picked up two SE/30 boards to repair. So far, I’ve been having trouble repairing them as both seem to have Simasimac even after cleaning and recapping them. One of the boards has the early stages (artifacts across screen) with death chimes while the other one has zebra bars and no chimes whatsoever. Both persist even when ROM and RAM are pulled out, both have no batteries, and both persist after resetting (both power and buttons on board) What steps should I take next?
  10. Folks, let me be clear. MacEffects is worthy of your consideration.
  11. Stephen_Usher

    SCSI problem.

    After finally getting around to looking at my second SE/30 and its SCSI problem I think I need a second opinion: The machine is fully recapped and other than the SCSI issue works perfectly. Symptoms: SCSI disks are seen but any filesystem found on the device gives an error "Invalid name". Initialisation hangs and then times out. I've buzzed out all the SCSI lines and the system data lines and they seem fine. Using an oscilloscope I can see data transfer on every SCSI data line. I'm using a known good SCSI device which works on other systems. All the PCB tracks look fine, as you can see from the attached image. So, I'm guessing that the issue is with a bad NCR53C80 SCSI chip?
  12. I’ve had an idea for a while to add Wi-Fi to my Classic Mac. I finally got around to putting it together and I think it turned out really well! I thought I’d post my experiences here for anybody interested. There was no hope of me building a PDS Wi-Fi card from scratch - but I already had a DaynaPort E/SI30 Ethernet card so I thought that I might be able to attach a Wi-Fi Bridge to the existing card via the RJ45 port. My first thought was an Arduino Yun board, which has both an Ethernet port and Wi-Fi built in – but they’re expensive, and to me it seemed overkill to use an entire Arduino/Linux solution for this. Instead, I found this Vonets VM300 Wi-Fi Module on eBay for $25 from China! At that price, I thought it was worth trying: Avocado for scale as I was out of bananas – it’s tiny! It might look daunting, but it’s very easy to set up – you plug in the Ethernet cable and connect to your Wi-Fi network via it’s inbuilt web interface: I did the initial setup on my Laptop and I was connected to my Wi-Fi network in no time. But when I tried connecting the module to my Mac, it just wouldn’t connect - all I got was a blinking link light: After a bit of web searching it became apparent that this is a common problem: modern Ethernet devices use auto-negotiate to detect the speed & duplex of the connection. The old Mac network cards pre-date this standard, so the router doesn’t detect the connection. The only way to correct the issue is to disable auto-negotiate on the router and explicitly set the connection to 10mbs / half-duplex. The issue is that virtually all modern routers don’t allow you to do this, and a first glance the Vonets VM300 was no exception - I couldn’t find any options to manually set the connection type. I thought all was lost and I’d just wasted $25… until I found the “Upgrade Firmware” button – and BOOM a new drop-down menu appeared! The instant I changed to 10mbs / half-duplex, the link light on the Mac went solid! A huge thanks to Vonets for adding this feature as obviously it’s a very niche requirement. My Mac was on the Wi-Fi! Now I just need to mount the Wi-Fi card inside my Mac to make things nice and clean. I bought a small sheet of aluminium from my local hobby shop, and I designed a basic template to cut it to size – I’ve attached the PDF template to this post. Cutting the aluminium was easy, just glue on the template and score the edges with a utility knife: Then clamp the aluminium to keep it flat, then bend the other side back and forth a few times until it snaps off cleanly. Next, I drilled some holes and bent the aluminium into a 90-degree bracket: I bought some 5mm spacers, 15mm M3 screws, bolts & washers from my local Jaycar Electronics (for the Aussies out there), and started assembling everything: Looks good and very sturdy! I then mounted the completed assembly into the Mac: I noticed that the Ethernet cable was precariously close to the CRT board, so I ended up angling up the bracket a few more degrees which worked a treat. The final problem to solve was power to the Wi-Fi card. The card comes with a USB power cable, which conveniently connects via an InLine DC connector (5V) – so I decided to build a replacement cable that would work in the Mac. I already have a SCSI2SD V6 card in my mac, which uses a 4-pin Mini-Molex connector for power - so I found this cable on eBay: Now I can power both the SCSI2SD and the Wi-Fi card. Funny story: I ordered this part on eBay and literally 15 minutes later my doorbell rang and a guy handed the part to me – weird! Molex connectors have both a 5v and 12v line in them, so I was very careful to only wire up the 5v line as otherwise my board would be fried. This was my finished cable: A soldering iron was required, and I insulated the 4-pin connector with a bit of hot glue. If you’re in Australia, the Jaycar part numbers are HM3414 for the 4-pin Mini-Molex, and PS0526 for the DC connector (it took me forever to find these!) I plugged everything in and powered up the Mac – the Link Light came on solid on the DaynaPort card, and the blue lights came on the Wi-Fi card – a quick check in the Open Transport control panel showed that I was on the network – success! I put the case back on, and I now have a Wi-Fi Mac. It works incredibly well – as soon as the machine boots up, it connects via DHCP to our home router and it’s on the network straight away Next Steps I’m a Software Dev, so I’m keen to write a System Extension to display a Wi-Fi icon in the menu bar to manage the connections – just like you would on a modern Mac. I believe that you can communicate with the Vonets module via Telnet to manage the Wi-Fi networks. I’m new to Classic Mac programming though (not a lot of demand haha) – so it will take me a while to brush up on my C skills!
  13. tommijazz91

    SE/30 internal HDD termination

    Hello everyone! I have a SE/30 that boots from the internal HDD only if a ZIP drive is connected. I initially thought it may have something to do with bad traces on the motherboard (and still haven't checked since it is not my area of expertise), but then I remembered: the HDD is a Seagate 8GB drive taken from an external Lacie enclosure. Is it possible that I have to terminate it with the switches present on the HDD? I found the manual for the drive but I am unsure on how to proceed. Maybe it has nothing to do with this, but the jumper plug on J2 is set to "term power from drive". Should I set it to "terminator enable", another setting or leave it as it is? Mine is the "N" model. Thanks.
  14. All – I'm genuinely flummoxed by this. Have any of y'all seen this happen before? I took a working, recapped SE/30 without a PRAM battery, installed a new PRAM battery off Amazon, and boom – simasimac on boot, no chime, even after waiting for RAM check to complete. Removed the PRAM battery, and I'm stuck with the same simasimac. Would y'all know what might have happened here, or how inserting a PRAM battery in an SE/30 that previously worked might lead to a simasimac? To make sure I hadn't accidentally unseated a ROM or RAM SIMM, I removed all of the SIMMs, soaked them and the logic board in vinegar to get rid of any corrosion, washed it, and dried it. No change. Attached are shots of the top and bottom of the logic board, if that would help. They're a little blurry. (Some IPA is still trying on the top shot, so it looks a little bit wet.)
  15. Hello I am going to be reworking the logic board on an SE/30 and am looking for a list of capacitors for the board. The board I have has already gone through a repair by an unknown third party and I intend to remove all the caps he put in place. I would like to install the original electrolytic capacitors and other caps that the board hosted. I don't want to go with tantalum capacitors because of their very disruptive end of life characteristics, namely they can blow up. I would appreciate if someone in the know could provide me a list of caps and their respective locations. Kindest regards —Alex
  16. tommijazz91

    IIgs keyboard not working at all!

    Hi everyone! After some time searching for one, I Irecently bought an Apple IIgs keyboard for my SE/30 (the seller lives just 2 km from here, what a coincidence!). It is quite yellowed but the keys are quite nice and not sticky. I plugged it to a SE/30 with a cord taken from a working AEK II but nothing happens. It appears to be totally dead. Either port doesn't seem to work. Am I missing something? Even the PCB doesn't appear to be too terrible. I really wouldn't want to resell it or buy another one - they are too hard to find and import to Italy.
  17. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and no major upgrades, the SONY PSU, once recapped, is more than adequate. Enjoy.
  18. kahlil88

    CC and SE30 damaged pads

    Destroyed a few pads on my CC and SE/30 boards. CC was the first board I tried to re-cap, with my rusty soldering skills and not the best iron. My electronics guru helped reconstruct most of the traces but we couldn't get this last one and I can't tell what it connects to. SE/30 recap went smoothly (I learned from my mistakes with the CC and took it slow) but I broke a pin off UF8 and then killed 4 traces trying to remove it!
  19. Hello I am doing a complete cleanup and visual inspection before I go through repairing the logic board. Anyway, I noticed that once I removed the anode cap a red sticky material was found on the anode cap and the anode aperture. I wonder what this material is, I imagine it is there to act as a glue to keep the cap in place, or at least help it stay in place. I am wondering if anyone has more info and whether this material is critical if so, I have wiped some off when it occurred to me that it is likely needed. I would truly appreciate any information. Kind regards —Alex Santos
  20. I've been working on a new video focused on SE and SE/30 fan upgrades over the last month and a half. I don't have any machines with the old squirrel cage fan, but I am aware many SE owners are. I want to add info in my video for those folks. I've searched this forum for "squirrel cage" and read through a lot of posts, but no one has provided a step-by-step upgrade with photos. Uniserver said that in his opinion it was the best fan because it moves a lot of air and is quiet, although he admits that it's noisy when dirty; and the reality is fans get dirty faster than you think. The boxer fans in contrast remain about the same in volume even with a bit of crud on them. Plus, the boxer fans are sold today whereas the squirrel cage fan is not. Anyway, I want to confirm with those of you who have done this squirrel-to-boxer fan upgrade how you did it. Specifically, if all you have is an older SE analog board with the squirrel cage fan, removing that fan means you have no metal bracket for mounting a replacement 60mm fan. (Newer analog boards had 60mm boxer fans.) I did find the following post: But "Velcro"? Really? Seems like it would wobble around after a while. In any case, I'd love to see a photo of that. Another post I found was this: But that is only for a 50x20mm fan, which I personally would not use because it's too small. Even most 60mm fans are rather small in terms of their airflow. Anything smaller would either not move much air at all or need to ramp up the rpms and be noisy to move sufficient air. If anyone knows of someone who created a 3D printable bracket, that would perhaps be the ideal solution. It might a bit more sound damping too as compared to the stock metal bracket, but one would need to print and test such a plastic bracket to know for certain. Any thoughts, suggestions and photos you are willing to share would be appreciated. Thank you.
  21. Question for those of you SE/30 owners who use a PDS video card with an external display. I have a Micron Xceed video card and grayscale setup. Grayscale works great on the internal CRT, but I've never used the DB-15 port also offered by the video card. I have a 15" Color VGA LCD that's about 10 years old. Would this adapter on Amazon be all that I would need? (Not sure how those DIP switches on the adapter are used in case like this though.) Note the horizontal scan rate mentioned in the Xceed manual page below of 31.5kHz, which seems rather odd (maybe common for Apple though?). Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  22. Just this christmas I got a macintosh se/30. I did a recap on it to bring back the sound and to bring back the occasional boot issues with the internal scsi. The internal scsi boots fine now no matter what, but neither my external scsi or external floppy ports boot. The machine starts up and when any external sources is in it gives the flashing floppy. Now I know its not the floppy since Its a emu and it works on my se and my plus. And I know its not my external scsi because It works fine when I use it on my other machines and it works when I put it in the machine. And yes there isn't the slightest of corrosion on the board, I was so surprised to see it in such good condition inside. I have cleaned both the ram slots and the ram. I also cleaned the slot for the rom and the rom itself. It boots fine with an internal but not external. It sees its there because it freezes at boot up to try and boot from the sources but it just wont from either.
  23. SE30_Neal

    Assigning SCSI chains

    hi guys, I’m looking to daisy chain SCSI peripherals to my SE/30, i’ve not done this before and could do with some advise as i notice some of the peripherals require assigning a scsi daisy chain number others don’t, i have the following:- -Zip100 no scsi assignment number -AVID external HHD has assignment number. -Apple 300 CD-ROM has assignment number. -None branded CD-ROM no assignment number. -UMAX Astra 610 Flatbed scanner also has assignment number. i would like to set up the daisy chain to my SE/30 so questions are: 1.) do i have to set them up in any kind of priority order, ie those with auto numbering first or hhd first 2.) do i need to have them in order of the chain ie if say the avid hhd is first link in chain that must be 1 i know the last in chain requires a terminator which is fine as i have one. any advice of setup would be most helpful. thanks Neal
  24. kahlil88

    Mac SE/30 no video after re-cap

    Finally got around to re-capping my Mac SE/30 board, after swapping the CRT from an unhappy Mac Plus and confirming signs of life. Screen came on and I could even boot off my Floppy Emu, though sadly the ADB ports appear to be dead. I knew it could use a re-cap after 30 years (at least 15 of which it was used as a door stop at my old high school). Re-cap went smoothly, and afterwards I cleaned the board with soap and a toothbrush, pressure washed with hot water, then shook and sat to dry overnight. Powered on the next day and I get a chime but no video. I decided to have a go at re-flowing UE8, UF8 and the other chips in that row, along with all the caps I had replaced (a few weren't as flat as they could be). Powered on and not even a chime. Went back for a second pass and ended up breaking a leg off UF8. The speaker chimes again but then blip-blips indefinitely, almost like it's stuck in a reboot loop but doesn't fully chime after the first one.
  25. Just as the topic asks, has anyone tried using a rounded scsi cable for their SCSI2SD or even just normal internal scsi hdd? I don't love the idea of twisting the flat cable to orientate it correctly in my SE/30. I remember in the past buying roudned IDE cables but I'm having trouble finding SCSI. Any thought or advice?
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