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davidg5678

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  1. davidg5678

    Mac Mini G4 SSD

    I think you can do this with an mSATA to 2.5" IDE converter and a cheap mSATA SSD. This should also be cheaper than the product sold by OWC. https://www.amazon.com/mSATA-44pin-Notebook-Laptop-Enclosure/dp/B01GRMUQRG/ref=pb_allspark_session_sims_desktop_147_3/132-4666466-5741617?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GRMUQRG&pd_rd_r=b8cea2cc-0f30-4312-9904-168d53a04931&pd_rd_w=NSwgW&pd_rd_wg=Rnoab&pf_rd_p=e500004d-dce5-4973-9afd-bba519c83f08&pf_rd_r=BJ7WR0Z053PXV77T0B7C&psc=1&refRID=BJ7WR0Z053PXV77T0B7C https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-120G-SSDNOW-UV500-MSATA/dp/B07CFRCKFN/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/139-7974699-0572325?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CFRCKFN&pd_rd_r=292de73a-c8a5-4493-a171-d5287bba8a80&pd_rd_w=CI0Vm&pd_rd_wg=ckBZl&pf_rd_p=ce6c479b-ef53-49a6-845b-bbbf35c28dd3&pf_rd_r=P7BPY6A1X6V4SH97H7M1&psc=1&refRID=P7BPY6A1X6V4SH97H7M1
  2. davidg5678

    Bondi Clamshell!

    I'm waiting for another battery pack to arrive in the mail at the moment, but as soon as I make a working battery, I promise to make a thread detailing the (more difficult than expected) process. ...OK -I'll describe the melted battery here too. What happened is that after I spot-welded the entire battery pack, I had a hard time getting the plastic shell to snap closed. It turns out there are at least two revisions of these batteries, (one with orange cells, and one with green ones) It looks like the green cell variant is easier to work with, but I had the orange one. While pressing the plastic clips together, a tiny piece of insulation must have been scaped off one of the cells, because the next thing I knew, I could see a red-orange glow coming through the almost closed plastic shell. The nickel-metal strips ended up getting so hot that they melted and acted like fuses before things could get even worse, but this was enough to destroy three of the 18650s and make a pool of molten solder fuse to a battery cell. The wires I soldered to the nickel strips fell off because the solder melted after getting so hot. The plastic casing also partially melted in this area from the heat. I hope to try again, but this scary (and really expensive) experience was more than enough to put me off from the project for over a month! I guess the main takeaway for me was that the 18650s are really dangerous, and if anything goes slightly wrong, they are enough to ruin your day! I think the iBook just uses the main battery to run the clock, so getting a new battery should fix this issue. There might also be a capacitor that keeps time between battery swaps, but I cannot remember if that applies here.
  3. davidg5678

    Bondi Clamshell!

    The method exists, but unfortunately, there is a lot of conflicting information that goes around when dealing with the 18650 batteries. There are several videos showing people soldering directly to the cells to rebuild iBook batteries, but according to the manufacturers of the batteries, this is dangerous and also decreases the battery life. A lot of people swear by this technique, but I have a feeling the battery manufacturers know what they are talking about more than most hobbyists do. The problem is that if there is a tiny short anywhere, it is enough to get things red hot, which melts the insulation, leading to more shorts, fire, etc. Essentially, if anything goes wrong, you can have a massive fire hazard on your hands. I did a ton of research before attempting to rebuild my battery pack, but I still ended up melting several batteries and spending way too much money. I think at least for now, it is easier, safer, and cheaper just to buy an aftermarket battery pack. If the source of these dries up, I guess someone will make a bit of money rebuilding these for people who don't want to deal with the problems entailed!
  4. davidg5678

    Strange SE/30 Simasimac

    Thank you! I'll buzz out all of the connections from the VRAM ICs and the ROM, and report back. This might take a while, I think there must be over one hundred places to test!
  5. davidg5678

    Bondi Clamshell!

    I am in the midst of this exact project right now! In theory, this is true. In practice, I have found that it would have been far easier, safer, and cheaper to just have purchased a commercial battery pack from Newegg. The 18650 cells can be very dangerous and frustrating to work with. If they are not handled properly, they will explode and catch on fire. (Don't ask about the melted battery pack on my workbench.) I built a spot welder to attach them together, but this cost almost $100 by itself. Theoretically, you could solder the batteries together, but with how reactive they are, I would not even consider doing this. I think the 18650 cells cost me $30, and a charger for the cells cost $10. If I had just bought a $60 battery pack, I would have been much better off. Of course, I am having tons of fun figuring out how to do the project, and I am enjoying working on it. From a monetary standpoint though, I'm not sure it is worth it, unfortunately. I hope to make a post about my battery as soon as I assemble a battery pack that doesn't try to catch on fire! I think it will be really exciting to use my Clamshell without being tethered to the power adapter.
  6. davidg5678

    Strange SE/30 Simasimac

    I'm not sure if anyone saw this post the first time around, so I'm bumping it in case anyone has some ideas about how to repair this motherboard. There are a few more things I could try (see above), but otherwise, this board has me stumped. If anyone has suggestions about how to fix this logic board, I would greatly appreciate them. Have you seen a board with an issue like this before @Bolle@techknight? Thanks!
  7. davidg5678

    MacSD - new SCSI SD card emulation tool

    <semi-relevant tangent> I have the 5.1 with a full-size SD card slot. Maybe the problem is that I used a Micro SD to full-size SD card adapter inline with the extension? I'll have to see if I get better results with a full-size SD to a full-size SD extension. If a product like this fixes it, I would have to assume that one of the two devices is not properly implementing the SD card interface. It's probably the SCSI2SD that is at (fault?) because the other extenders I have purchased in the past have worked with my modern iMac just fine (assuming I remember correctly, it has been a while). It's equally possible that the implementation of the SCSI2SD SD is in spec, but my iMac just tolerates out of spec SD better than SCSI2SD. </semi-relevant tangent >
  8. davidg5678

    Bondi Clamshell!

    This is a really large flash drive to use with such an old iBook! The clamshells only have USB 1 which is really slow, but I still don't think this is normal behavior. Maybe it would help to reformat the drive using disk utility on the iBook? I think with a drive of this capacity, things get a little weird because older computers don't really handle drives over 128GB very well at all. I would also try a slightly smaller drive, and see if anything changes. Luckily, there is probably nothing > 64GB that you would ever need to use with this computer, so it (in theory) it should be easy enough to work with a smaller drive.
  9. davidg5678

    MacSD - new SCSI SD card emulation tool

    Hmm... I actually tried that same product too, but it did not work for me. I wonder if it has something to do with the SCSI2SD models behaving differently. I did my experimenting with a SCSI2SD V5.1. Did you use another model or the same one?
  10. davidg5678

    MacSD - new SCSI SD card emulation tool

    I have purchased a few of these extenders, but they have all proven to be incredibly unreliable. They sometimes work okay with my modern computers, but I have never successfully gotten one to work with my Macintoshes, unfortunately. Over the years I have purchased and returned several with no luck. I wonder if there is some sort of EM interference inside the SE/30 from the CRT? These products definitely have no shielding at all, whatsoever. I wish I could find a way to make a working extender, though. It would be so much easier than bringing out my MacCracker each time I want to copy files from Basilisk II. Has anyone cobbled together a system that works?
  11. davidg5678

    Bondi Clamshell!

    There is no need to take the laptop apart for ethernet, nor a need for a USB dongle. There is already an ethernet port you can use on the side of the computer. If you plug an ethernet cable between this port and your router, you will be online. I mentioned a wireless ethernet repeater, as you may wish to use your laptop somewhere other than connected directly to your router. This is a device that does the work of connecting to your modern network for the iBook and simply provides an ethernet link for you to connect to the older computer. I think something like this product would work. Before doing anything fancy though, you should probably try connecting the laptop directly to your router with an ethernet cable, just to make sure everything works.
  12. I'd love to be a tester! How can I access the beta image?
  13. davidg5678

    Performa 400 Battery damaged Logicboard Repair

    Impressive work! I have yet to get one of my battery damaged boards to work, despite having the tools and soldering skills. One day...
  14. davidg5678

    Bondi Clamshell!

    This is more a matter of whether you should do it, not if you can do it. If you configure your router to not use any encryption (or an outdated standard of encryption), it will definitely work, but this is usually an all around bad idea as it exposes all of your network to neighbors, hackers, etc. You might be better off using Ethernet and some kind of wireless repeater for it. The iBook doesn't really have the ability to make use of high speed internet, so pretty much any kind of Ethernet system would work. In terms of battery packs, I can confirm that the $60 pack is a pretty good deal. I decided to rebuild my own battery pack, and so far it has cost much more money, while proving to be incredibly difficult. (I definitely have not recently melted my battery pack ;))
  15. I think there is a chip on these boards labeled egret which can cause many problems if electrolyte gets underneath it. Before you shelve this board, I would recommend using hot air to remove the egret chip, cleaning the PCB really well with alcohol, and reinstalling the chip. This might help solve your problems. Otherwise, if you are willing to sell your dead board, I may be interested in buying it.
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