Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About aplmak

  • Birthday 03/11/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North Providence, RI
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It was the stupid Master/Slave jumper! So I put the jumper on Master and bent it all the way down. Had to squeeze it in the hdd caddy but it’s screwed in and WORKS!!!!
  2. Ok here’s one for ya’ll. Wallstreet 333 MHz I replaced with a Trancend 32gb IDE ssd. Formatted fine with Apple HD drive setup. Installed OS 9.2.2 perfectly. Drive appears on desktop with all files. Mind you I did this via a bootable PCMCIA 32gb card. Now will not boot PCMCIA card out of course.. CD ROM unresponsive to eject. So fine I throw a 4gb ide back in it! Booted fine! CD operates fine.. I mean what the heck?????? Any Ideas???
  3. aplmak

    Connor Mac Portable 3045 40MB Drives

    I’m just surprised.. because even when that foam was new I can’t see a solder lead not piercing through it.. now if it was plastic that would make sense.
  4. aplmak

    Connor Mac Portable 3045 40MB Drives

    Ok so here’s some photos.. the three drives work I just need working boards.. And also the silicone seal I use when they are all cleaned.. also is a picture of a bad head magnet! The black bumpers always turn gooey and sticky.. you can also see the magnets flaking..
  5. aplmak

    Connor Mac Portable 3045 40MB Drives

    I’ve used a paint brush and the foam just comes right off easily..
  6. aplmak

    Connor Mac Portable 3045 40MB Drives

    Hmmmm I have several drives with absolutely no foam. And are working normal. Aren’t the metal standoff’s long enough to clear the bottom of the drive?? I’ll have to check that out.. The other question about fixing the goo is a lot of patience and to be very careful. As long as the goo hasn’t hit the heads or the platters yet. I use a qtip and go around and around the edging.. and then use qtips with 90% alcohol to thoroughly clean. There are two tricky spots where you get close to the platter. Also if you have a drive with black head bumpers that has to be removed and thrown out. You can only use the ones with the clear bumpers. I’ve also seen where the goo or chemical reaction lifts the coating off the magnets for the heads and flakes.. it will stop the head from moving.. and you certainly don’t want flakes flying around inside. Not all can be saved but some can!! I keep bad ones for parts like the bumpers or boards. Everyone can say replace it with SSD... but some collectors like original parts. Of course dont forget to clean the cover edges.. and remove the little filter if it’s got goo in it.. and finally silicone it carefully back together after you have tested it.
  7. aplmak

    Connor Mac Portable 3045 40MB Drives

    It seems to be mostly revision "E's" in this stack.. maybe a D and an F but all E's
  8. Ok so I have 3 working drives.. I de-gooed them and sealed them with some good silicone adhesive. They are in perfect shape. The problem is the boards... I've got a pile of connor hdd boards that are bad... I assume it was during when people tried to fire them up while capacitors were leaking everywhere and it did something to a chip on the hdd boards. If I swap boards from a good unit it they power up and run just perfectly fine. If I only knew what to fix on this pile of bad connor CP-3045 hard drive controller boards........
  9. aplmak

    Dynamac Smokin!

    James I’m curious on where I could find that extension you mentioned
  10. aplmak

    Opening Powerbook adapter

    Ok so I’ve done a bunch. I use a flathead small screwdriver right near the connector on the bottom and begin cracking and separating it at the bottom. Then I move it around and separate the two halves.. the nice thing is any marks are small and by the bottom of the wire coming out.. I’ll try to take a pic to explain.. sometimes you can crack the sides by pushing in. I’ll warn you if you have a really dried out plastics they just crack and break. I offer no warranty’s or success with this. I’m simply telling you how I perform this. Good Luck
  11. aplmak

    2400c - How to keep it working?

    Well I did it.... got all three ticking time bombs out! It’s important that first order of business with classic Macs is to remove the PRAM battery! Leaving them in and or replacing them and forgetting them can destroy your classic Mac!!
  12. aplmak

    2400c - How to keep it working?

    I have 3 great condition PB 2400’s and really don’t want to pull the PRAM’s out on them. The take apart is just a real pain. And to do three is just eyeboggling. I don’t think any have leaked yet but they have to come out. I agree with said earlier I NEVER replace any PRAM batteries. This was primarily for during the time they were used daily way back when. ALL batteries are removed from my machines out or in storage! It should be common practice amongst us collectors. I’m just dredging taking them out of these three.. I absolutely hate the take apart. But my laziness to leave them in will pinch me later on down the road...
  13. aplmak

    Newton MessagePad H1000

    I’ve replaced all of my capacitors in my Newton MessagePads.. including a 4.7uf in my eMate 300’s to tantalum..
  14. aplmak

    Apple Lisa Widget Drive

    You know... i've opened up many old hard drives including widgets.. I think the drives of this time period are not as sensitive as people think than ones of today. I've even used qtips on Mac Portable platters with alcohol and it didn't affect anything.. So as much as some people say you need a clean room I think for all these old hard drives they are much more forgiving.. When I do it I just make sure I'm not in a dusty environment and I blow out the drive carefully before replacing the cover. I have recovered about 5 or so Mac Portable drives from the sealant turning to goo.... before it get's on the heads or platters... I think once that has gotten on the heads or platters it's game over for those. On the widget's I've always had issues when the glass platter for the optical sensors is moved or broken.. Sometimes if I remember right they were just glued in place.. and in some drives they had a bracket securing them in place... When I open one up and see the bracket there I am relieved... I then don't really screw with the insides much after that.. because I've found that that is the major issue... When people ship them they break off or come unglued and then are rolling around scratching up the platters in there... Sorry to go off on Mac Portables... but I usually swap out a "black bumper" assembly with the clear ones on the Connor Portable drives... those black bumpers turn gooey and the arms stick to it.. With the COVID I've had a lot of time to bring back to life a bunch of Connor drives... I have about 4 I just need new boards for.. the hard drive itself is fine.. I just have a box of bad boards.. and I don't know what really is wrong with the boards.. Perhaps when the caps went bad on the motherboard they had sent back some bad voltage feedback or some bad stuff to the drive board that fried one of the chips??? I dunno... anyway sorry to change subjects.
  15. aplmak

    Archiving Lisa Floppies

    I love FEdit.... I've wiped serial numbers many, many times.... and it worked great... there was a paper out there somewhere showing where exactly the serial is... it's usually in the same area...