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  1. Received a note from another forum member and they recommended removing the cache, as that solved this same problem for the recently. This did not work for me. I'm off to the Trading Post to give this away.
  2. danpoarch

    Digidesign NuBus expansion box

    Interesting thread. I have two of these expansion units (only one NUBUS host card tho). I've been slowly collecting all the pieces for the past 4 or five years. There is a way to archive the floppies and use them to authorize PTIII and Sound Designer. I've attached a screenshot of some apps I found (can't believe I didn't write down where!). You create a ShrinkWrap image with NybbleMaster 1.7, then you burn a real floppy from that image and use Power FakeMaster 1.75 as an intermediary between the Digi Installer and the faked floppy. So far I've successfully authorized Sound Designer (I think, it was late one night and I don't have that hard drive in the machine right now). But I'm still experimenting with all of this. I'll drop an update when I finally get time to fully test it out.
  3. Still chimes. No video. I put a jumper on the VGA enable pins and switched to pure VGA video and still no image on-screen. Odd that it chimes but no clicky from the hard drive(which spins up) and no video. Not sure I'll continue to test this and may just sell it. Bought it to put one of my Stargate cards into. If it's this much trouble I don't want to test another unknown like a Stargate with it.
  4. I got a powerCenter off of eBay that has a MaxPower CPU in it. When I power it on I hear a chime but I don’t see any video (LCD or CRT) and I don’t hear the hard drive chirp away. Haven’t tested the hard drive because I get no video even when I disconnect it. Reseating the CPU, cache, RAM and ROM have had no effect. And well, it chimes, so those should work. It responds Ctrl-OpenApple-Reset, but doesn’t seem to respond to Opt-OpenApple-P-R... Any ideas? It’s been months since I bought it so no bother asking the seller anything. And honestly, they won’t know so I’m not going that route.
  5. On the Micron Xceed docs: I've reviewed some of the code in the .sit file and while I know a little Moto assembly from school, most of what's happening would require a lot more analysis to understand. However a couple things are crystal clear, the files in the includes list are not included in the .sit file [price is right loser sound]. Bummer, but there's still a sh!t-ton of things that can be figured out. MAV (that we now know is Maverick) can be seen on the FPGA(?) on the Macro Color boards that have the 369-010 part number that matches some of these files. The FPGA part on the MacroColor boards with part number 390-010 has a different name GAM. Interesting. These, with the GAM, must be later boards. But... in another thread JDW has a side-by-side shot of an Xceed that I would expect to be an older board but it has the GAM label. Point being, maybe it's just a later revision that's backwards compatible(?). These boards are so confusing as far as specs and naming so I have no idea. Just picked one up off of eBay with the GAM label with no grayscale adapter so I'll be interested to see what I find out. I may actually dive into ROM dumping the GAL that's on there. Have to find a ROM reader on eBay first, and having gone down this rabbit once before, that's not an easy expedition. NUBUS: Hard to find many pictures of the equivalent Micron NUBUS cards but perhaps the vector processor chips (MAV, GAM) on the NUBUS cards are cross compatible with the 030, but not the other way around. Hard to tell from the wording of the MAV/GOOSE section of the tech docs. There's a lot here to be picked apart. If we have a ROM and a map of how the vector processor works, perhaps we can use the existing Xceed drivers to get a basic video board off the ground and then build up from there.
  6. For anyone needing to map broken/disappeared traces on a Mac IIci, I cleared off everything in the serial/sound area. Note that some of my traces between UA4 and RP1 are shot to sh!t.
  7. When you discover that the 15-pin is not showing any video and appears mangled by cap leakage, try falling back on the composite video out. This saved me some heartache on one of my 660AVs. Never have gotten the proper video port to work but I just use the composite if I need to bring it up. I plan on using it for donor chips to restore one of my 840AVs. All of the custom VLSI chips are the same for the two machines. These boards can become pretty infected, so clean clean clean.
  8. Thanks! I keep looking at the sound circuit thinking, “I should really rework and clean those, but... time already invested >> resale value...” but that never stopped me on my other Macs...
  9. Figured it out: 4420P-601-250/201 This is based on the idea that it’s the same basic need as the SE/30 filters which are: 4120R-601-250/201 Note: the IIci are SMD, the SE/30 are through-hole. Both are end-of-life and are non-stocked. So if you see them, buy them.
  10. That sounds like something I saw on Mouser. I will update the thread with a part number of that works out. I’m enjoying the challenges these two boards are giving me but I’m getting a little burned out by all the trace repair. Especially when the other one worked when I decided oh hey I should tear it down and *really* fix it... hope it works when I turn it back on.
  11. While I’m feeling chatty, I already rebuilt the power circuit wIth shiny new ICs. New Q3, Q4, 7474, and 2x 74132s. And yeah, I crammed some oversized solid-electrolytic 10μf smd caps on there for good measure.
  12. Also, if you have a Mac IIci, this repair is not for the rookie, nor for the impatient. These things are filthy. On both my boards nothing but grit has bubbled our from under these and the 75175 transceivers. Numerous broken traces once the chips are removed and the areas are cleaned. You may well find that these repairs are mandatory at some point because it appears that this is where all the electrolyte from the caps ran to.
  13. Looking at replacing the Bourns filters in my Mac IIci’s. They meter pin-to-opposing-pin at 45ohms but that may not be an accurate read because it’s an RC filter. Which I have to assume it is... but... I can get any kind of data sheet From the numbers on the top of the case. I’ve replaced the through-hole Bourns filters on my SE/30s so I’m familiar with them. But I can’t get anything on these... Anyone have any suggestions?
  14. danpoarch

    Color Classic/Mystic intricacy and troubleshooting

    I did look at FAQ but it implies that you need to make gestalt ID changes. Which I can certainly do, I'm just trying to figure out the shortest distance to a bootable system so that I can verify operation of the parts I have. Will update this thread when I have more progress. DP
  15. Bill of Materials: Color Classic Case - runs fan when switched on without mobo Color Classic Mobo - original to the machine, horrible recap from a rookie that looked stunningly like me 8 years ago. 575 Mobo - cleaned but not recapped as of yet The Classic will switch on to fans with no motherboard in the case, so we have hope for the analog board (I would assume). The horribly recapped mobo was my first recap attempt and has tons of busted traces and I used the wrong kind of flux, etc, and the Classic won't go to fans if I have it in the case. I've tried the in/out trick holding down the power switch with it and got nowhere. I'm just looking to get this thing off the ground and reading all of the various Mystic guides can get confusing. And most seem to be starting from a working base Classic, so my case is somewhat unique. Thus, can I recap the 575 mobo, make the resistor mods (http://www.applefritter.com/powercolorclassic/stuartbell/compendm) and stick it in the Classic and get anywhere with it? Or, do I have to start with a working Classic to make the necessary changes for the ? Will a working stock 575 board work in the case at any particular system revision? (Yes, I plan to recap analog board and fix the stock Classic mobo eventually)