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JDW

68000
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About JDW

  • Birthday 02/25/1971

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  • Website URL
    https://www.youtube.com/c/JDW11

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aichi-ken, Japan
  • Interests
    Church, family, travel around Japan, Mac computing, graphic design, web design, photography, videography, Newton 2100 PDA, System 6 fun on an SE/30

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1411 profile views
  1. Well, it is summer time now, so a wade through my videos might turn out to be quite cool and refreshing. I'm not sure which PSU and caps you gentlemen are speaking of regarding hot glue, but if you wade through my videos, you will see me selectively use hot glue. It's more important on the analog board than on something like the HD20SC SONY PSU because the big caps on the analog board are shooting out to the side, so there is much more pressure put on those two legs, and that is compounded by the fact you have a 60mm fan pounding those caps with microvibrations while the Mac is on. A tiny dab of hot glue will lessen the stress. The key point here is, you don't want something to cause the caps to leak over time because they are fluid filled. I put Mouser Carts in the text description under all my recapping videos on YouTube. You must watch the videos on YouTube to see that text description. On a desktop computer, you must click SHOW MORE to expand it. And yes, you can even find it on mobile too, but again, you must be watching on YouTube to see that text. If you've never read through my text descriptions before you are in for a treat because I often pack them full of useful info, sometimes all the way to the 5000 character limit. I even include Amazon links to useful tools you might not have. Why offer people a Mouser Cart instead of a link to Console5? Honestly, I wish Console5 would publish detailed specifications of all the capacitors they use so I could just link to them instead of spending hours making my Mouser Carts. But the fact is, you really don't know what brand caps you will get with Console5 until they arrive, nor do you know the part numbers even when they arrive. All the caps I choose are Nichicon or Panasonic or similar trusted brand names. I also choose capacitors with ESR in mind and the Hour rating in mind too -- most I pick are 5000 to 10000 hour caps. It pretty much goes without saying I choose only 105°C or higher rated caps. And yes, all that really does matter. You don't need an EE degree to pick good caps, but it helps, and I happen to have one. So I am not taking random guesses about the caps I select for others to use. I also pick caps in light of Larry Pina's recommendations as well. Bear in mind that Mouser has no affiliate program so I get no kick backs at all for making the Mouser Carts. It's also high maintenance for me too because when Mouser suddenly runs dry of stock, I get no notifications at all, and I only find out when a viewer tells me, then I need to visit Mouser and find a suitable replacement cap, then update the Mouser Cart. It's really a lot of work for me, but I do it because I'd love it if somebody did that for me. I'm a firm believer in "what goes around comes around." Maybe someday some good things will happen to me. That's really my biggest motivation for making videos that help others. Helping others never gets old. I really enjoy doing it. Getting paid for doing it would be nice, but I'm not even close to being able to quite my day job for YouTube. I wish I could since my day job is only paying my rent these days. The economic situation here in Japan stinks.
  2. Thank you, @Byrd. Mark J. of MacEffects really put a lot of love into his masterpieces. As mentioned in my video, even Apple recognizes that effort, showing the case, albeit indirectly, in their secretive lab at WWDC 2020. The hot glue you see me use on the clear speaker in my video is the same stuff you see me use in my analog board recap videos. I bought it in Japan. There’s nothing special or expensive about it. It looks fine to me.
  3. Folks, let me be clear. MacEffects is worthy of your consideration.
  4. JDW

    MacSCSI by John Bass AT LAST!

    Nice find! After reviewing that article, I took note that John Bass says his software really only handles drives up to 5MB, suggesting additional software to partition the drive if you go beyond 5MB to keep the sheer number of files from bogging down the system.
  5. JDW

    MacSCSI by John Bass AT LAST!

    I don't know if there ever was a file. If there was, I was stupid for not having downloaded it back in 2009 when this thread was started. I spent a lot of time Googling for it recently but came up with nothing. Hopefully someone can provide it. I hate it when useful information resources like this are lost forever.
  6. Well, I finally got my 800K Recap & Lube video published today. Thanks again to @LaPorta for your video which helped me. I will show the EM-30L in a future video after that arrives — thanks again, @jjclay! This video is packed with info. Enjoy.
  7. I'd love to have a schematic of those video cards to find out! The company who made it is long gone, but it would be nice of the IP owners or engineers at the time could donate technical documents to the vintage Mac community. Rebuilding the schematic isn't impossible, but it takes more time than any of us care to invest.
  8. Will, do you have a multimeter to test the voltage coming out of your step-down converter? And is the frequency of 60Hz correct too? Even if the voltage and frequency are correct, what happens when you connect another 120VAC device (other than your Mac) into that converter? I am trying to make sure you are getting good power going into your board. If you are, then of course diagnosing your analog board will make sense. And the things others have suggested are quite good. You basically have to troubleshoot the board on a component level to find which component is causing a short, since that would be the only thing on the board itself that would repeatedly blow the fuse.
  9. @LaPorta Thank you. I just finished watching the entire video. You mentioned that you have broken off the two little plastic tabs that secure the metal cover underneath the gear box in the past. I am curious as to your exact method of repair since I have the same problem. Right now, I have a couple dabs of hot glue over the broken tap stubs, which surprisingly is holding it in place well after a couple days of testing. But with all the oils and grease in that area, I expect that hot glue won't last long term. So I purchased some J-B Weld (the original stuff that hardens like a rock and takes 24 hours to cure). I've not yet applied it (because it won't arrive until Friday), but supposedly J-B Weld will bond metal to ABS or PC plastic -- I assume this black plastic is ABS. My intent is to put a dab of epoxy over the location of those two broken tabs (after my cleaning and lube of the gearbox is finished). The amount of epoxy I intend to use would be small enough to where I hopefully could break it off in the future (should another lube job be necessary 10 years or so hence), but yet enough epoxy to be adequately strong to hold down that plate for many years, should I decide to leave that gearbox untouched. Even so, hearing how you repaired yours (with 2 broken tabs) would be informative. One guy on our vintage Mac FaceBook group suggesting drilling and using wire (where to drill and how to use wire, I don't know), but I really don't want to do that. Epoxy seems like a smarter idea to me. @jjclay Thank you again for your extreme kindness in mailing me a small tub of EM-30L. Your name will be honored in my next video!
  10. @jjclay I too thought the gears might just pull out, but I could only get the little yellow gear and the white one above it out by gently pulling. I didn't try to apply too much pressure to the other two bigger gears for fear of breaking them, so I look forward to hear the technique you employ on the next drive you service. I will PM you my address.
  11. @jjclay Thank you for your kind offer! It is truly unfortunate that EM-30L is not sold here in Japan. You might want to check with your local post office to see if they will even allow you to ship it. Post offices around the globe have gone made in restricting things they deem "dangerous." Here in Japan perfume is classified as a "dangerous good." Check this out: https://www.post.japanpost.jp/int/use/restriction/airmail/index_en.html If your post office won't let you ship it, I might bite the bullet and buy some rather expensive (here in Japan) Super Lube 21030 grease which has PTFE (Teflon). It seems to be silicone based which means safe for plastics. Until now, I've been using normal silicone grease and silicone oil without any PTFE in it. Maybe the PTFE makes a difference? Even so, the EM-30L doesn't have PTFE in it. Hmmm... I did not put any grease in the gearbox mainly because I can only figure out how to remove the yellowed gear and the white gear that sits atop it. But there are two more gears that need to be removed. How do we safely remove the biggest white gear with the little metal piece attached to it (the gear that actually hits the sliding tray and ejects the disks)? All gears would need to be removed, cleaned and re-lubed, not just one or two.
  12. Australians have it all together. Europeans on the other hand, well...
  13. But if a component was shorted and therefore burned and destroyed, the ejection should stop working completely. In my case, it works sometimes and other times not. I am basically trying to figure out why.
  14. Well, it's impossible for me to buy Molykote here in Japan insofar as I am not going to buy a $100 bucket of the stuff to satisfy my curiosity. Maybe someone will donate a jar to my YouTube channel one day for me to make a detailed comparison because I am curious about the difference with my white silicone grease. If I had a million subscribers like the 8-bit guy I'd probably have the cash to just buy that $100 bucket, but that's not my situation right now. In fact, I'm partially living off savings things are so bad. Anyway, after reading the responses here and on vintage Mac FaceBook groups, I decided to buy 4pcs of the PMMA molded gear from the guy in Italy. I told him I would probably show them in a video on my YouTube channel. Hopefully silly Corona won't delay the package! (UPDATE: EBAY says a June 24th arrival. ) Right now, I have an 800K drive I am in the middle of shooting a recapping video of. During my testing the drive works well except for ejection. Sometimes ejection works but other times not. Yes, I have fully lubed the drive with Silicone grease and Silicone oil. The small plastic gear is stock but fine, so it must be something else. I've not added any grease or oil in that gearbox though. Not sure if that is the source of the problem. Any thoughts?
  15. Not available in "small jars" on Amazon Japan though. It is sold, but only in paint bucket size tubs for about US$100 equivalent. But the bigger question in my mind is, what's the difference between that EM-30L and White Silicone Grease? Both play well with plastics. And the fact is, I have the while silicone grease but I don't have the EM-30L. I also have silicone oil.
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