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  2. PB145B

    Goofy Line on PowerBook 180c Display

    Yeah, that “shadowing” on an active matrix display is a classic symptom of bad caps. That display should be 100% fine once recapped. Another symptom sometimes is the display looking washed-out until the unit warms up (I have seen this on some old Compaqs before).
  3. PB145B

    Bondi Clamshell!

    What @Daniël Oosterhuis said above is 100% correct. It is somewhat unfortunate though, because a Bondi clamshell would look killer!
  4. Today
  5. Trash80toHP_Mini

    PB Duo schematics?

    Cost would be insane, but if they ever set it up for research like the National Archives, that would be wonderful. Might the Woz be contacted to fund such an endeavor? It would be very sad to see so much technical history molder away in storage un-scanned.
  6. Hit a snag with my SE/30. While loading and patching MacTCP and transferring some other utilities via MacIPpi, the screen started to shimmer and then flipped on black vertical bars! I have Jailhouse Mac unfortunately. This has nothing to do with the Pi software/localtalk setup. I recapped the logic board a couple weeks ago, but have been stricken with sound issues and now this. I only mention it here because I am prepping a new post in another forum seeking advice while I wait for desoldering alloy I ordered to arrive. I plan to remove, clean and reattach the ASC, but I have other problems with the video to diagnose now, so it may be a while before I can really put the Pi through some TCP bridging tests, as it is just too hard to read the dialog boxes for setting IP, gateway, dns, etc.
  7. jdlanza

    Color Classic Startup Troubleshooting

    Well, I did admit that I didn't know what I was looking for! Now I know. Any recommendations for US-based recapping services?
  8. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Color Classic Startup Troubleshooting

    The third picture really shows that this board needs a recap, as well as a thorough cleaning. The solder and solder pads around the caps and other components have some heavy corossion from years of capacitor leakage.
  9. jdlanza

    Color Classic Startup Troubleshooting

    Given the state of the board (see below), I don't think it's a cap or goo issue, but then I may not know what it is I am looking for. Am I missing something obvious? In the meantime, I'll do a search for troubleshooting the egret chip. johnl
  10. LaPorta

    PB Duo schematics?

    So far what I heard back from the curator was that the vast, vast majority of what they have is there in physical storage and not scanned. I am awaiting to hear how one accesses the main documents in person, but with COVID it appears the campus will be closed for a long time with no chance of looking things up. However, the possibility exists for one of our CA friends here to be able to peruse them someday and perhaps obtain schematics for everyone.
  11. ScutBoy

    PB Duo schematics?

    I did a quick on-line search there and didn't find anything. Perhaps @LaPorta will have more luck with his direct query.
  12. davidg5678

    Strange SE/30 Simasimac

    Thank you! I'll buzz out all of the connections from the VRAM ICs and the ROM, and report back. This might take a while, I think there must be over one hundred places to test!
  13. davidg5678

    Bondi Clamshell!

    I am in the midst of this exact project right now! In theory, this is true. In practice, I have found that it would have been far easier, safer, and cheaper to just have purchased a commercial battery pack from Newegg. The 18650 cells can be very dangerous and frustrating to work with. If they are not handled properly, they will explode and catch on fire. (Don't ask about the melted battery pack on my workbench.) I built a spot welder to attach them together, but this cost almost $100 by itself. Theoretically, you could solder the batteries together, but with how reactive they are, I would not even consider doing this. I think the 18650 cells cost me $30, and a charger for the cells cost $10. If I had just bought a $60 battery pack, I would have been much better off. Of course, I am having tons of fun figuring out how to do the project, and I am enjoying working on it. From a monetary standpoint though, I'm not sure it is worth it, unfortunately. I hope to make a post about my battery as soon as I assemble a battery pack that doesn't try to catch on fire! I think it will be really exciting to use my Clamshell without being tethered to the power adapter.
  14. bibilit

    Color Classic Startup Troubleshooting

    Caps, Egret chip, goo issues....
  15. LaPorta

    Macintosh 128K Sad Mac Error Code 047A80

    The actual pin assignments do not seem to match up. Below is a diagram of the actual RAM chip socket pinout from the 128k/512k schematics that are available. As you can see, they do not match up. I looked a while for a solution, but I got too busy a month or so ago and never found one. Maybe we can find a solution now.
  16. jdlanza

    Color Classic Startup Troubleshooting

    One more piece of information that may help: the system failed "overnight." Literally. The evening prior I had been working on the machine, got the system loaded on a SCSI2SD, etc. Shut down. The next morning -- nothing. What would cause this kind of abrupt failure? johnl
  17. bibilit

    Color Classic Startup Troubleshooting

    Assuming you have not replaced capacitors or cleaned the board, there is not much i can say. Battery is not required and connectors never troublesome.
  18. Okay, experts, here's what I've got. CC without the mobo installed powers up. Fans spins, etc. Insert the mobo, and no joy. Left it plugged into power overnight, still no joy. Removed the PRAM battery, still no joy. Inspected the mobo, but I don't see any evidence of damage, cap leakage, etc. Leads to the connector are bright and shiny. At this point, my main suspects are the ADB ports. Any thoughts? johnl
  19. ian1035nr

    Goofy Line on PowerBook 180c Display

    Just realized that those look nothing like rectangular, surface mount, electrolytic capacitors. And whoever had a 180c with gap goo in the cables likely had the laptop stored on its side, letting gravity slowly pull expelled electrolyte from the other side of the board into the cables. The fact that it took me so long to realize that is sad. I knew I was dumb/out of it, but I didn't realize the situation was this dire. That makes my life easier, just going to grab the appropriate caps and get this thing fixed. I just found a Reddit post of someone with exactly the same same problem as my unit, someone in the comments apparently had the same issue and fixed it by replacing the electrolytic caps on the back of the board, so I'm hopeful.
  20. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Bondi Clamshell!

    It should be noted though, the blue color on these iBooks was Blueberry, not Bondi. Bondi was strictly for the very first generation of iMacs, that color went away when the jump to the "Yum" Fruit colors was made. Bondi is a slight bit greener than Blueberry. As the iBooks came out when that jump was already made, they only took two out of the five Fruit colors for the Clamshells. Which is a bit of a bummer, I would have loved seeing all the Fruit iMac G3 colors represented in Clamshells!
  21. Hi, I have a Classic and Classic II. I have a problem with the Classic II analog board that I can't fix. It was leaking caps which I have replaced. The Molex connector on the HDD was reading 4.52 and 11.32 volts on the classic II analog board. On the Classic analog board they are reading 4.98 and 11.92 and both the Classic and Classic II logic boards are working fine with the classic analog board. So I know both logic boards are working. With the classic II analog board nothing appears on screen with the classic II logic board and with the classic logic board I get a checkerboard and the HDD doesn’t startup. So I gradually turned up PP1 watching the voltage (turn off, turn up a bit, turn on, check voltage etc), when it reached the maximum on PP1 it read 5.2 and 11.81. I turned it back a bit it to bring back to 5v, the HDD now starts up but nothing changes with the screen so obviously the 12v circuit isn’t enough to drive the logic boards. What might be not allowing the 12 v circuit to get past 11.8v ? I have changed every Electrolytic Cap on the analog board except CP1 which I can’t find a replacement for, I have taken it off and it doesn’t look like it has leaked. I don’t get a bong start on the classic II logic board on either Analog board but I am assuming that there is a bad sound circuit on the logic board given all caps had leaked on the classic II Logic board. It still boots up ok and reads the HDD on the classic Analog board.
  22. ian128K

    Bondi Clamshell!

    For what it's worth, the battery on those clamshells just uses six standard 18650 lithium cells. Very easily attainable and a pretty simple job to install into your existing battery pack.
  23. Thank you for your experienced input. I certainly appreciate that. That JAMECO web page you linked to is exactly the one I mention in my previous two posts. That chip is show in the JAMECO/Siemens datasheet as this: The above looks pin-compatible with the Micron MT4264 (which I linked in my previous 2 posts): The pin-out markings look to be the same on both the JAMECO chip and the stock MT4264. Are you saying the MT4264 is not the stock chip? Or are you saying the JAMECO chip physically will not fit into the holes due to the pin spacing being different?
  24. ian1035nr

    Goofy Line on PowerBook 180c Display

    Sutekh, you are an absolute legend. Thank you so much! One last question: There's these capacitors here that I've "circled" in red. Are these something I need to replace as well? I'm worried about them because they're running right next to the delicate ribbon cables
  25. LaPorta

    Macintosh 128K Sad Mac Error Code 047A80

    I need to do this, too, but the chips I got from Jameco were NOT pin-compatible with the old ones, and I was never able to get them to work. Here are the chips I tried: https://www.jameco.com/z/4164-150-Major-Brands-64KX1-DIP-16-DRAM-150NS_41662.html
  26. sutekh

    Goofy Line on PowerBook 180c Display

    There I can certainly help you! I just re-capped mine a month ago while I was in there fixing the cable and Mouser conveniently stores your order history I ordered the following: 4 x 47uf, 16v, p/n: UUL1C470MCL1GS 2 x 10uf, 25v, p/n: UUL1E100MCL1GS 3 x 10uf, 16v, p/n: UUL1C100MCL1GS I like the Nichicon UUL series owing to their 5,000hr life rating. Here a pic of the driver board I still had on my phone:
  27. ian1035nr

    Goofy Line on PowerBook 180c Display

    Yes, that's it exactly, it's an active matrix panel that's acting like a passive matrix panel I was trying to think where I've seen that kind of look before; it's been so long since I've used a passive matrix panel that I've practically forgotten what it's like! Last time I had used a PowerBook with a passive matrix screen was a 150 I had repaired for someone back in 2010. A visual inspection of the display cable doesn't show any obvious tears or breaks, but I'm wondering if some cap goo might have gotten into the array of short cables that run from the screen itself to the control board. Any references I've seen to this phenomena resulted in the traces being eaten away and the screen having lines that were just missing, so hopefully I got to this before anything got under the cables. Only problem now is finding out what caps are on the board. I had posted about it a while ago, but the only concrete I answer I got was as follows: 47 uF 16 Vx 4 10 uF 16 V x2 10 uF 25 V x2 The rub is that my screen has 7 caps in total at that end of the board, not 8, but there also wasn't any indication as to where those caps actually go. And the ones on there right now don't have any markings to aid in identification. If only the 180c had been more popular, either during it's actual production run on in recent years with collectors. Other models have lists of the exact caps people bought from mouser/digikey. But oh well, c'est-la-vie, I chose to go after one of the (if THE least) popular model in the 1xx series of PowerBooks. Only thing left to do is work around the obscurity
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