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  1. Today
  2. I have a number of early PowerBooks like the 180 which have the same issue and I’m wondering if anyone knows what causes this or how to fix it. The display works fine and when first booted is fine. But then over the period of a few minutes, the corners get darker and this spreads in causing a vignette effect as shown in the photo. It seems very organic so I assume it’s not a problem with the image data. It does not look like a backlight problem.
  3. I’d buy these off you, but shipping might be prohibitive. I assuming your files can be used by board fabricators anywhere?
  4. aeberbach

    MacEffects Clear Case REVIEW, for SE & SE/30

    I really appreciate the Mouser carts. They ship all over the world, they have a huge range and if your first filter term is "in stock" you get no nasty surprises when a part is something you need quickly. Second, if an EE already went to the trouble of making a cart it's saving me a lot of time - thanks again.
  5. Daniël Oosterhuis

    Recap gone right?

    It'll likely be fine, those tants don't tend to take anything with them when they go, unless a component is very near and gets heat damaged, which is not the case here.
  6. Well I can do the board - but i need one desoldered completely. it's possible to buzz via's etc for ground or +5v connections, so you dont need to sand a board, but using a few dead boards is a better plan than wrecking a working one. Plus i only need to salvage certain chips like the 26LS and anything Apple custom. For all testers of this initial batch - i forgot the GND and +5v connections for the disk and serial - DOH! For some reason i skipped over them, it's fixed in the latest Gerbers, but the prototype batch will need these connecting - nothing major, just solder bodge wires and bridge pins for the SCSI - should see from these images where the GND and +5 connections are - light brown is +5v, dark brown is GND.
  7. cheesestraws

    Duo 280c Re-Cap

    Yes! It’s always good to see something come back to life. Well sleuthed!
  8. Trash80toHP_Mini

    MacEffects Clear Case REVIEW, for SE & SE/30

    Wading through just about anything to get just a little bit of something hidden therein ain't relaxing. I like to leisurely watch your videos, maybe with a cold glass of lemonade in hand. They're much appreciated by all here I think and thanks much!
  9. sutekh

    Duo 280c Re-Cap

    Mystery solved! Found an old post that mentioned the 280c logic board has 4 x 35v 100uf (check), 1 x 35v 47uf (check), 1 x 25v 33uf (check), and 1 x 25v 100uf (eureka!). I had all of the above in my parts bins, so recap complete. My new friend gave me a bit of a scare today after buttoning it up though: Hung on the initial gray screen, even after numerous power-cycles. From my research trying to track down that cap value, I read numerous horror stories about leaking caps causing exactly that behavior on Duos Gravely concerned at this point, I opened it back up and started poking around with the DMM and scope. I couldn't find a schematic anywhere and the board is a forest of vias (who knows how many layers...), but while probing around in the DC-DC circuitry, I noticed that "DZ6" was open! D = diode, Z = Zener I assumed. The little SOT-23 SMD had "8Y" silked across the top, and a bit of googling suggested an SOT-23 packaged Zener diode thusly marked was perhaps an MMBZ5248? That I certainly didn't have, but I contacted a tech I'm friendly with at a local electronics repair shop and he did Booted right up after replacement. A $0.13 part almost ruined my day. This particular failure mode was probably specific to my board, but if any of you are hanging on to failed Duo boards, replacing DZ6 might be worth a shot...
  10. Trash80toHP_Mini

    DON’T TALK TO ME OR MY SON EVER AGAIN

    . . . or not.
  11. Yesterday
  12. joshc

    My new SE/30

    I do this with my Macs - it prevents it coming loose when you transit the Mac, the video board socket doesn't hold onto the CRT's neck too well on its own from my experience. Have you checked continuity from the brightness knob on the analog board?
  13. aeberbach

    My new SE/30

    @CC_333 Thanks - I did spend a couple more hours removing and testing everything, tracing through the schematic as I went. Then I noticed the yoke connection seemed a bit wobbly as I went to reconnect the board hoping that reflowing solder might have had some effect since I found no bad parts. I noticed Someone has hot-glued the socket onto the tube! And behind the insulating label I find this - note the big crack in the solder above the printed 'M' - the pad above 'I' was loose from the fibreglass but still electrically connected. I repaired these and now I have all the brightness I could want. But the front brightness knob still does nothing. I think there may be some reason the socket is hot-glued to the tube and it isn't going to be easy to find out what. Maybe if I gently hot-air it I can get the socket off without cracking the tube? As for the floppy drive, head tension seems OK. Heads will still come together with no air gap when removed from the drive. I don't see how the spring could be moved to an alternate position for more tension either? Also I replaced the caps and no change. Tried another cable - a Segger J-Link has the same 20-pin cable as a Macintosh floppy - and still no good.
  14. Actually, I'm 99.8% sure that's for the speaker? This is a very incredible project! If anyone ever does one for the SE/30 (probably much more ambitious, but technically not much harder than this, I'd suppose? At least better schematics exist for it?), I'd consider giving one a try, as I have several boards which, if I haven't sold them all, I could salvage custom chips off of. If there were a way to do it non-destructively (there probably is), I suppose one could even "borrow" the custom chips from a working board as well for testing purposes, yes? c
  15. Scott Baret

    Color Classic Restore

    Any updates on this project?
  16. Well, it is summer time now, so a wade through my videos might turn out to be quite cool and refreshing. I'm not sure which PSU and caps you gentlemen are speaking of regarding hot glue, but if you wade through my videos, you will see me selectively use hot glue. It's more important on the analog board than on something like the HD20SC SONY PSU because the big caps on the analog board are shooting out to the side, so there is much more pressure put on those two legs, and that is compounded by the fact you have a 60mm fan pounding those caps with microvibrations while the Mac is on. A tiny dab of hot glue will lessen the stress. The key point here is, you don't want something to cause the caps to leak over time because they are fluid filled. I put Mouser Carts in the text description under all my recapping videos on YouTube. You must watch the videos on YouTube to see that text description. On a desktop computer, you must click SHOW MORE to expand it. And yes, you can even find it on mobile too, but again, you must be watching on YouTube to see that text. If you've never read through my text descriptions before you are in for a treat because I often pack them full of useful info, sometimes all the way to the 5000 character limit. I even include Amazon links to useful tools you might not have. Why offer people a Mouser Cart instead of a link to Console5? Honestly, I wish Console5 would publish detailed specifications of all the capacitors they use so I could just link to them instead of spending hours making my Mouser Carts. But the fact is, you really don't know what brand caps you will get with Console5 until they arrive, nor do you know the part numbers even when they arrive. All the caps I choose are Nichicon or Panasonic or similar trusted brand names. I also choose capacitors with ESR in mind and the Hour rating in mind too -- most I pick are 5000 to 10000 hour caps. It pretty much goes without saying I choose only 105°C or higher rated caps. And yes, all that really does matter. You don't need an EE degree to pick good caps, but it helps, and I happen to have one. So I am not taking random guesses about the caps I select for others to use. I also pick caps in light of Larry Pina's recommendations as well. Bear in mind that Mouser has no affiliate program so I get no kick backs at all for making the Mouser Carts. It's also high maintenance for me too because when Mouser suddenly runs dry of stock, I get no notifications at all, and I only find out when a viewer tells me, then I need to visit Mouser and find a suitable replacement cap, then update the Mouser Cart. It's really a lot of work for me, but I do it because I'd love it if somebody did that for me. I'm a firm believer in "what goes around comes around." Maybe someday some good things will happen to me. That's really my biggest motivation for making videos that help others. Helping others never gets old. I really enjoy doing it. Getting paid for doing it would be nice, but I'm not even close to being able to quite my day job for YouTube. I wish I could since my day job is only paying my rent these days. The economic situation here in Japan stinks.
  17. olliec420

    BGE's take on the Quadra 900/950 ATX PSU Mod

    How difficult was the surgery? I have it all ready for me but I just haven't felt the urge to sit and tackle it yet. Ive watched enough videos, I think I got a plan but I am not very experience with this kind of soldering. I got to get this done one weekend soon. Any tip or suggestions for me?
  18. Trash80toHP_Mini

    Macintosh "Portable" - 14 pages of topics searched

    De nada! I got a bit burnt out and moved on to other insane projects for a while, but I'll get back and finish what I've got in the remaining bookmarks folders . . . . . . it's a bit more than just a bit.
  19. OK, overall seems like a best-case scenario considering what I stupidly caused. 5v and 12v rails are solid at 5.2 and 11.96 respectively on battery alone, so I'm feeling confident for the moment that the Hybrid is unscathed. I removed the SWIM and it reliably boots and resets with a chime and a uniform screen, and interrupt provides the two chimes and sad mac as expected. All I need then - it would seem - is a replacement SWIM... If I remember correctly, It has been suggested in other posts that SWIMs from other models may work... is this the case? Where can / should I find a replacement SWIM?
  20. desertrout

    Macintosh "Portable" - 14 pages of topics searched

    Thank you for doing this...
  21. EmmyOcelot

    Recap gone right?

    Could the one cap kill the board? I'm still going to swap it out tomorrow.
  22. cruff

    Recap gone right?

    Oops, but at least you know which one to reverse now.
  23. maceffects

    MacEffects Clear Case REVIEW, for SE & SE/30

    Here is the link he posted for capacitor list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18X-EN67lQdZ2crCBAlkHrtqCCoJK6cLw_BkIYdlJvgs/edit#gid=0 Here is the link to his video (highly recommended):
  24. So I recently purchased a Mac Classic II that needed some repairs done. I got it up and running, but after about 10 minutes the screen went to max brightness and I could see lines running through the screen. Now I know it's not covered in the dead mac scrolls, but I did find the issue on page 52 (Including a screenshot of the issue). What complicates this is that I heard a loud hiss and smelled burning plastic as well and immediately turned off the Mac and unplugged it and removed the analog board. I'll include a picture of that as well. It looks like one of the pots shorted out and I'm not sure if this was the root cause or if this is a symptom of the aforementioned resistor going bad. Any tips moving forward would be greatly appreciated as I'm pretty new to this and don't want to cause any more damage.
  25. EmmyOcelot

    Recap gone right?

    Well....just goes to show. Check the polarity of all caps.
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