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chu-oh

SE/30 Restoration Fun

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Finally got my hands on a (some what) affordable SE/30, perfect recapping project for the Christmas break. 

 

The Ebay listing said it's been upgraded to have an ethernet card, 20mb of ram and a 252MB hdd.

 

Got some pretty bad screen flicker, the floppy won't read or eject, no chime and it looks like the HDD is dead... I got it to boot once, but not since. I did get a bomb on boot once saying there wasn't enough memory but mostly I'm just getting a flashing question mark.  

 

Anyhow I thought I'd document my journey getting it up to scratch. 

 

First things first, the externals:

imageproxy.php?img=&key=fcb9af74e9143c1b

2BE2612A-2ACA-4341-AEAE-9B78D1B3D7A5.thumb.JPG.226690e7e652a7ba6bab0ee8b99120e2.JPG

 

The company that did the ram upgrade... looks like they still exist: http://xyber.com.au/

 

IMG_4023.thumb.jpg.e863e477a9f6a77de2141b7ac3e0ce33.jpg

 

The back with the ethernet card:

 

IMG_1952.thumb.jpg.50ee6f8447c479eb780645427a8abb05.jpg

 

 

The horizontal flicker with burn in:

IMG_4767.jpg

 

Weird thing, it booted to my SCSI2SD fine, but when I shut it down and came back to it about 5 minutes later the same screen was there (wasn't at all responsive):

 

 IMG_4652.thumb.jpg.2962c09e893bbee8da5de30fcbed4118.jpg

 

The ethernet adapter:

 

IMG_1572.thumb.jpg.fdeba3109a3da58e61d667008750deec.jpg

 

The logic board, with no sign of leaks which is a good sign.

 

IMG_0226.thumb.jpg.dea3c3b6e0cae6860824252ed66f5611.jpg

 

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do first? 

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The flicker is caused either by a failing UE8. I had a similar looking issue on one of my SE/30 boards and it was caused by a bad trace to one of the VRAM address muxes, so that's a possibility as well.

I would start with a recap and good cleaning and see where that brings you.

If the issues persist tehre are two options. You can either start by checking all traces around the video circuit (especially to/from UE8 and UA8-UD8) or removing UA8-UE8 to check if the ICs itself are functioning properly. (or just go straight for replacements)

I tend to check the ICs first but that's only because it takes less time to desolder them, check them in an IC tester and solder them back on than to buzz every single trace.

 

It looks like someone did at least clean this board to some extent before. It does not show any obvious cap leakage but you can clearly see corrosion and dull solder around UD8, UE8, UF8 and even UG8.

Edited by Bolle

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Thanks, I've done a good clean with isopropyl and a scrub with vinegar around where you suggested and It's still occurring. So recap and report back. 

Thanks for your input, really appreciate it.   

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