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plb007

Preventive recap Mac 128k & 512k

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Hi, 

 

Following my "classic" and "IIci" failure due to capacitor and battery leak, I went to check my 128k & 512k.

As they powers as usual, with sound, bright and crisp screen, is it necessary or recommended to change the caps ? Are they subject to leak as classic and SE30's ? 

Does analog board and logic board needs recapping ? 

Is there a "list" of more leaking mac. I see a lot of classic (1&2 + color) and SE30's, but less of the others compact mac. 

 

Regards  

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43 minutes ago, plb007 said:

is it necessary or recommended to change the caps ?

No, certainly not on the logic board.

 

Replace the caps on the analog board when you start to notice the CRT display fluttering or jittering, particularly with floppy drive activity.

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I bought my 512kE in 1997, and most of my troubles have been solder joints...

.. There was the burnt up J1 connector, but I just removed it all together..

And as I stated in that piece, I changed the capacitor at C1. 

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECQ-E2395JB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF0%2BjlB8SXIRuf09bNNZbGIg%3D

 

I haven’t done anything else to it....  It just works.

 

..... The other compacts I have, all have some sort of cap problems (SE/30, Classic II, SE SuperDrive...)

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I have two Pluses, both are upgraded 512ks.  I reflowed solder joints on both and also have a partially-burnt J1 connector, but otherwise they both work brilliantly.  One weird exception I have posted about elsewhere - one of my Pluses always reboots instantly whenever a Made-in-Japan M0100 mouse is plugged into it (the Made-in-USA M0100 doesn’t do this ... I have several of both and it happens consistently with the Japanese mice only).  Once the mouse is plugged in, it works completely fine after the auto-reboot.  Thinking something in the mouse was causing a short I actually recapped the mouse just kind of for fun, but it made no difference.  I have been wondering if an analog board recap might help with this, but as nothing else is even slightly amiss I haven’t bothered as yet.

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On 6/8/2019 at 7:29 AM, Crutch said:

I reflowed solder joints on both and also have a partially-burnt J1 connector, but otherwise they both work brilliantly

You might want to look at the link I posted in my last comment. You’ll find all the pieces to get a new jack & connector in there, or do what I did, and remove it entirely, soldering the wires directly to the board. 

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