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PotatoFi

3D Print Replica HD 20 SC Enclosure?

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Hey 68kmla! I would love to have an HD 20 SC hard drive, not so much for the hard drive, but for the enclosure. Seems like it would be a nice place for my SCSI ethernet adapter to live, and it would elevate my Macintosh SE a bit. But rather than gut an HD 20 SC, how about 3d printing an enclosure? I have a nice 3D printer (a Prusa i3 MK2S), and it looks like such an enclosure would just barely fit in the build envelope.

 

There would be a few challenges:

  • Need an enclosure of an HD 20 and/or HD 20 SC to create replica model from (I've literally never seen one in person)
  • I can model in SketchUp and OpenSCAD, but would probably need to learn Fusion360 for something this complex
  • Large, flat parts are fairly tricky to 3D print, as they're prone to warping issues
  • Would need to find beige and/or platinum-like colors to print in, so the enclosures match the Macs in color (I've never liked painting 3D prints... would rather just find a similar colored filament)

 

Any interest in a project like this? @maceffects, any thoughts? If something like this came to fruition, I'd be happy to print off a few enclosures for people, publish the files, whatever. I'm not really looking to make money on this (I mostly just want a couple for myself), but if I could print and sell a few to recuperate cost of filament and machine time, that seems like it could be fun.

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The HD20 SC uses the Snow White design with the platinum plastics and grooves.  So if you want a drive that matches your SE, then you'd want to go with the HD20 SC.  It'll also look nice next to any II-era Macintosh that uses the same design.

 

The HD20 has a curvy design like a Mac Plus, and is aesthetically designed to match the Mac 128k through Plus.  Its front profile is the basis for the original HDD icon. :)

 

Interesting side-note:  there was a very rare SCSI upgrade for the HD20.

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@PotatoFi Printing the case would be a difficult task and would require support structures.  If you didn't spend several thousand on the 3d printer, it will probably not be high enough resolution to do a good print.  Moreover, matching platinum or any Apple color would be hard both from the perspective of filament and production. 

 

However, if you can get produce STP/STEP files, I could contact my prototype producer and make some clear case versions.  I'd bet that the two molds (if produced) would be around $12,000-$15,000.  That would be doubtful for production, but who knows.  Those HD20 SC's are often is sad brittle condition. 

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19 minutes ago, maceffects said:

Printing the case would be a difficult task and would require support structures.

Thanks for your feeback!

 

Agreed, not an easy print, but I've been designing parts for Fused Deposition Modeling printers since ~2011. I'm aware of the limitations, and have some ideas for how to work around it. For example, this could be a two-piece print, with the top piece being printed on it's top. Still, I'd rather avoid that, as I find top layers of FDM prints to be more attractive than bottom layers... but that's stuff I can handle as I go.

19 minutes ago, maceffects said:

If you didn't spend several thousand on the 3d printer, it will probably not be high enough resolution to do a good print.

I would never claim that an FDM 3D printer can achieve injection-molding-like results; it's going to be an obviously 3D printed case. But check out these little brackets I designed and printed for my Cisco switch:

 

IMG_0615.thumb.jpg.2c434a9f7066fc99a97af025ac2e4fd2.jpg

 

(For scale, the size of the bed is about the size of a Macintosh base)

 

IMG_20181110_150716.thumb.jpg.2bec4d16ba96e024bacc8659bdb5dd19.jpg

 

IMG_20181110_151038.thumb.jpg.caf11176fa3c5d25435dca8652e5f110.jpg

 

Those were done on my $700 Prusa i3 MK2. It breaks my heart when people go out and buy a $3,000 Makerbot... they just don't produce as good of results as the Prusa. They would be obviously 3D printed parts, and maybe I'm biased, but I think these look pretty dang good.

 

Warping is my biggest concern. I should probably try to print a big blank box first to see how it turns out.

19 minutes ago, maceffects said:

If you can get produce STP/STEP files, I could contact my prototype producer and make some clear case versions.  I'd bet that the two molds (if produced) would be around $12,000-$15,000.  That would be doubtful for production, but who knows.  Those HD20 SC's are often is sad brittle condition. 

Cool idea for sure, but I think that's hopelessly out of scope here. If you think it could be done then I encourage you to run with it. But me... I think it would be fun to start with some 3D prints and see how they turn out.

Edited by PotatoFi
Added another photo.

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No substance here but just wanted to add, this is a great idea. I gutted a bad HD20SC (the original, no-label beige model) recently, cleaned it up then restored the case a bit with some ABS slurry, and now use it to hide a SCSI2SD for my 030-upgraded Plus (and as a little stand). I kept the original PSU in there, wired up to the SCSI2SD so the switch and LED still work. Basically it’s the fastest and highest-capacity imaginable 20SC. I love it. 

 

Now that’s you mention it I could definitely fit an Asante EN-SC in there too. It’s true that a classic HD20 would match the Plus better but I haven’t seen a broken one for sale cheaply...

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@PotatoFi that’s pretty impressive work you’ve done there. I don’t recommend makerbots to anyone. There are, however, some high res printers around the $3,000 that are great. For your application it looks like it fits the bill. 

 

I’d be happy to see if I still have some HD SC drives floating around somewhere for you to model, if not I can ask around. I don’t think buying molds are worth it but I bet for a few hundred dollars (each) I can get clear ones made from their $100,000+ machines. I know I’d like to have a clear one for myself and I bet others who backed the case project would too. I’ve considered making laser cut hard drive top covers to allow you to see inside the drive when it’s working in the SE series.  Looks like I now have extra motivation.  

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I have access to a 40x28 laser cutter if things need to be laser cut.  75 watt CO2.  My Dad owns it and I would just need to buy supplies.

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Just now, IlikeTech said:

I have access to a 40x28 laser cutter if things need to be laser cut.  75 watt CO2.  My Dad owns it and I would just need to buy supplies.

That’s great because I have several ideas of things that would need laser cut. I don’t mind sending some money either.  I’d really like to make clear SE port bezel in the rear, I’m working with Bolle and Trash80 to convert PDS cards but have nothing to give it a finished look. I still need to engineer the the hard drive cover to make that happen. I think it would be so cool to be able to see the drive in action, especially the Mini Scribe stepper motors. 

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Yea I tend to agree about the hard drives.  That would be so cool. Opening one to just swap the top case is unlikely to hurt the drive.  I have access to a copy of Rhino, which is what my father uses for laser modeling.  By port bezel, you mean the little piece of plastic that covers the card slot if no card is installed?

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I’m certain it wouldn’t hurt those old drives, the data density is very low.  I like electromechanical devices. 

 

Here is a photo of kind of what I intend to make for the custom Ethernet card we are working on. I think both would be a good fit for laser cutting.  The engineer I’ve been working with has been busy but I’ll toss the idea at him when he is free. Or I may dabble a bit because neither should be that hard to design. 

ABB340C6-9F54-4C3E-8499-D19954FA39F0.jpeg

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Yeah, it should be straightforward I don’t have any software to create it but if it’s simple for you maybe we can work something out. 

 

Here is the tricky part it would actually just be a square to accommodate this coupler, that little clip would be the only hard part but really it should be decent. 

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monoprice-8P8C-RJ45-Cat6-Inline-Coupler-Type-Keystone-Jack-White/40501021?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1884&adid=22222222228028185259&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=60058075809&wl4=pla-94244636649&wl5=9016200&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113139629&wl11=online&wl12=40501021&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItpet8MX44QIVT7jACh24BQu9EAQYBCABEgKWpPD_BwE

 

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Yeah, two holes for the screws and the main hole in the middle, probably the easiest think to design and cut.  One sheet of acrylic could make a ton of these little parts.  In the future I will see about making one with two WiFi antennas, but that's a bit far along.  If you want I can send you one of these couplers to take a look at?

 

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Sure, send me a PM with your info and I'll have one sent your way.  If you have an SE or SE/30 you should be able to use it as reference.  As far as thickness, it would have to be strong enough to insert the coupler and not crack, but thin enough to be screwed in.  Other than that, thickness shouldn't matter much.  We've made some great strides with the ProtoCahce+LC PDS Conversion idea thus far thanks to Bolle and Trash80, and Ants provided some good feedback for making it WiFi in the future too.  That's whats great about projects like this, it brings everyone together.

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@maceffects I actually do have an HD20SC and an HD20 (which was working as of maybe 3 years ago), either of which I could volunteer for being modeled, if anyone needs.

 

I also have both an external 800k drive and an original 400k drive which can be modeled too. We can be ridiculous and have every SE/30 peripheral be clear like the case!

 

I have a feeling that would get ridiculously expensive ridiculously quickly, though.

 

It's beginning to remind me of the late 90s, when everything was being made curvy and translucent to match the then-new iMacs!

 

c

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8 hours ago, maceffects said:

Here is a photo of kind of what I intend to make for the custom Ethernet card we are working on. I think both would be a good fit for laser cutting.  The engineer I’ve been working with has been busy but I’ll toss the idea at him when he is free. Or I may dabble a bit because neither should be that hard to design. 

ABB340C6-9F54-4C3E-8499-D19954FA39F0.jpeg

 

Very simple laser cut clear plexi panel. Just four holes and one rectangular opening. Bolt up this this doohickey w/integrated 10" patch cable:

 

71QEE-Oq7jL._SL1500_.jpg

 

$6.49 in onesies off Amazon.

 

 

edit: with CLEAR you get internal WiFi antennae on eggroll.

Edited by Trash80toHP_Mini

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19 hours ago, maceffects said:

 

@PotatoFi Sorry about the thread hijacking!  Sometimes, I get a bit carried away with projects.  We sent our chat to PM already.  If you do decide you need an HD SC to model, please let me know and I'll make sure that happens for you.  

On one hand... no worries. I'm stoked about the ongoing progress with the PDS cards. But on the other hand... this branch in conversation has rendered the first page of this thread unreadable. Creating a new thread to discuss that would be beneficial to everyone, I strongly encourage you guys to do that to benefit your project.

14 hours ago, CC_333 said:

@maceffects I actually do have an HD20SC and an HD20 (which was working as of maybe 3 years ago), either of which I could volunteer for being modeled, if anyone needs.

To both @maceffects and @CC_333, these offers are MUCH appreciated. But rather than ship them and risk damage, what if we just started with measurements? If you have some digital calipers and are willing to spend some time getting measurements and photos of the case, that would be hugely helpful. I think that the exterior of the case would be the first priority for now. Basically all I can do right now is reference blurry photos, which are surprisingly far and few between. Here's a VERY rough first look at a model:

 

386809331_ScreenShot2019-05-01at10_19_07AM.thumb.png.06724cd8355cb2b659f8d8541106503b.png

 

Things I'm looking for are total dimensions, dimensions of fillets around the edges, depth of grooves, width of grooves, distance between grooves, etc. Any information would be super helpful.

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@PotatoFi I don't have a caliper handy, unfortunately.  I think if packaged properly, sending one would be the best option.  I'd be happy to cover @CC_333's postage and packing costs to make that happen. If I have one I'm sure its buried right now. 

 

@Cory5412 yes, if you could start a new topic "Custom Clear Hard Drive Lids" I would appreciate it to help clean up this thread.  Thanks @Trash80toHP_Mini for the idea!

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While you're at the tangential readjustment, please have this thread moved to Hacks & Development where it belongs. ;) Much easier to find there and goes hand in hand with the 3D Printed Objects thread.

 

To reiterate oP's point in first reply, the CD 20SC would be correct Snow White Design Language for SE and SE/30. For 128k-Plus all you need to do is delete the grooves. Don't wanna even talk about the Espresso curve infested Classic, but that could be a second very closely intertwined related tangent to the IP.

 

For that first intertwined tangent: with a bit of planning up front your design could be far more versatile if you artistically interpret the 20SC a bit rather than slavishly copy it. By moving the Lid/Case line slightly (if at all?) the same model can be outfitted as a TrayLoader interpreted AppleCD SC. If nothing else, adding the Activity/Power LED setup from that box alone would be a huge improvement to the stock 20SC, but my SE/30 and SE could definitely use a CD. :approve:

 

Screen Shot 2019-05-01 at 10.19.07 AM.png

 

For your first dimension, the Snow White Grooves and case joint appear to be on the close order of 1.5mm. I'll have to sample it many more times with the digipers more correctly squared up to the case, but I wouldn't bother. Source some rectangular LEDs and design from that dimension. That will be close enough that no one will be able to spot any slight width difference in the Snow White lines of an SE/SE/30 as they're perpendicular to the lines on the sides of the 20SC. Box, digipers and rudimentary back to "school drafting kit" are heading to work with me in a few. More to follow. Iso is very cool, but plan views would be extremely helpful in harvesting the info you need from the gang. You can witness line the dimensions and radii you need tagged with _?_  and update the views with the dimensions as they come in.

 

So far the spec has been for a SCSI2SD. PSU or lump-onna-rope and a whole lotta empty air. Cubic is a terrible thing to waste.

 

BTW: Fabulous rack brackets. :approve:

Edited by Trash80toHP_Mini

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On 4/30/2019 at 4:54 PM, maceffects said:

@PotatoFi Printing the case would be a difficult task and would require support structures.  If you didn't spend several thousand on the 3d printer, it will probably not be high enough resolution to do a good print.  Moreover, matching platinum or any Apple color would be hard both from the perspective of filament and production. 

 

However, if you can get produce STP/STEP files, I could contact my prototype producer and make some clear case versions.  I'd bet that the two molds (if produced) would be around $12,000-$15,000.  That would be doubtful for production, but who knows.  Those HD20 SC's are often is sad brittle condition. 

Potato could you not make it in sections; glue, sand then spray to match? 

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1 hour ago, SE30_Neal said:

Potato could you not make it in sections; glue, sand then spray to match? 

That was my thought. Don’t bother matching filament color. Just print, sand, spray texture and then spray paint the correct color. 

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He said he didn't like to paint printed parts earlier on.

 

I didn't get a chance to play with the toys at work tonight, so I did a bit here after work. The PDF can be opened in Illustrator to read out real measurements for the parts. The lid joint drops down into the case. Probably better to wait until I get more measurements to plug in like the roundover radii. I'll rummage around for a rectangular LED in the AM or look on eBay. That would be he easy way in.

 

AppleCD_SC-20SC-00-000.thumb.jpg.c88791da28cf7fd70b9bd819bc587953.jpg

 

AppleCD_SC-20SC-00-000.PDF

 

Details on the size of the opening are in the PDF. It's a hybrid using the wider caddy door opening and the bare bones height of a trayloader's tray only w/o the overlapped front panel which cuts the height of the tray/opening down from 17mm to 13mm. Caddy opening is 10mm high, so I think this is a good balance. Using a stock trayloader drawer/face wouldn't do at all. Much too high and too narrow an aspect ratio. This works for me. Two LEDs on the AppleCD SC are are better than one on the 20SC and the RED one will make your SCSI2SD go faster. [:P]

 

Feets are about right, but the plastic bits next to them were only eyeballed. Button's 12mm from the Q950 bezel as is the rectangular emergency stick something in me hole. The button on the Caddy Loader in my hand is rectangular, I think I like it better.

 

I've never been a big fan of the detailing and controls of the Snow White chin of my AppleCD SC. This one I like, stripes on the sides are plenty.

 

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