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JDW

Modern PSU for the SE/30

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@Crutch Did you measure voltage levels (specifically, the 5V line) at the Floppy connector and at your internal HDD power connector when you had your Turbo040 inside?  I ask because in my experience, prior to my epic blunder which caused my Turbo040 to stop working, I would only get freezes with the Turbo040 when there were software incompatibles.  That's a lot of software that just locks up with an 040 but which works fine with an 030 processor.

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On 2/8/2019 at 12:46 PM, ants said:

@Crutch your solution of wiring the soft power of the Seasonic to the original switch is very elegant - I wish I had of read your post in more detail before I did my upgrade!

That is how I wired mine as well. The only downside though is I'm still hesitant to leave the computer plugged in when I'm not using it. If I had wired the PSU AC power to the physical switch I probably wouldn't think anything of it as turning the Mac off would mean it's off, full stop. 

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38 minutes ago, superjer2000 said:

...If I had wired the PSU AC power to the physical switch I probably wouldn't think anything of it as turning the Mac off would mean it's off, full stop. 

That's how I have my SEASONIC wired.  When the mechanical switch is flipped OFF, the PSU is 100% OFF and has no possibility of ever going ON.  I didn't think anything negative about doing it that way since that is basically how the stock PSU works.

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There's definitely pros and cons of both methods. I think for a novice like me, wiring the soft power would have been easier and less scary. I guess I'm just paranoid!

 

Although I was wondering how hard it would be to get the soft power running to the power key on the keyboard?!?

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Does someone have an exact wire configuration list/drawing from the Seasonic PSU ATX connector to use in the SE/30 connector? I've seen JDW's video but I'd just rather not make a mistake will attempting this upgrade.

 

Thanks.

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The closeups of my Seasonic PSU ATX connector in my earlier post on this topic (Nov 25 2018) may give you what you want.  The colors are ATX standard: yellow = +12v, red = +5v, black = common, green = PS/ON, blue = -12v.  Of course it’s also very easy to just power the thing up and test each pin with a meter to make absolutely certain (this is what I did...).  Also see this helpful link from Von: http://bylenga.ddns.net/index.php?page=SE_ATX.php 

 

 

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6 hours ago, Overlord said:

For a fee, would someone be willing to wire up one of these for me?

If I lived in the US, I will would be more than happy to do it, but since I live in Japan the 2-way shipping cost would be cost prohibitive.  But since many of our forum members live in the US, I have no doubt that someone will probably stand up and offer to do the job. 

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