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Classic II restoration project

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I see some dispute about this on the web.

Some sites say 6.0.8L is minimum, others say 7.0.1

 

Any confermation on this? It is running system 7.5 It is slow under that. I have system 7.1 pro disks too.

 

:beige:

 

And one more thing....

 

How hard is it to add RAM? Do I risk death? Could I reverse the planets rotation? Could I cause a black hole? ;)

 

What are the best prehipreals for the machine? I am looking for a cheap good printer (One that wont paperjam every 24 seconds like modern ones),best storage device that is removable too.

 

and what is the best B&W software? I want to turn that classic into my schoolwork and fun machine.

 

And One more thing...

How can i minimize yellowing?

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Adding RAM is easy once you have the case open. Disconnect the SCSI, floppy and power/display cables, and the motherboard slides right out. There will most likely be two 1MB 30 pin SIMMs on the board, which will be waiting to be removed and replaced with two 4MB 30 pin SIMMs, bringing you up to 10 MB.

 

Good peripherals for a Classic II would be an Apple Extended Keyboard II, StyleWriter II, external Apple CD-ROM drive, anything from around that era.

 

Software, run System 7.1, ClarisWorks (any version), Word 5.1, and just about anything else you want.

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And I dont think a CD Rom would be too useful. Unless I could burn my favorite music to it and play it while I type. Also, I need a PRAM battery. What type does it use? and I cant find a date controll panel?

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The screws are size 15 Torx screws, most electronics or maybe even hardware stores should have T15 screwdrivers in stock. The trick, however, is finding one with a long handle, which you need to access the rescessed screws in the handle.

 

As for the old 1MB SIMMs, i don't know...I've got a collection of the things. :p Must have at least 50 of them, pulled from machines over the years. Put them inside an LCII, or an old PC i'd imagine? Stick 'em on your keyring? Put magnets on the back of them and stick 'em on the fridge? Use your imagination! :p

 

*has a 256k SIMM on my keyring*

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I see some dispute about this on the web.

Some sites say 6.0.8L is minimum, others say 7.0.1

 

Any confermation on this?

 

System 6.0.8L was officially for the Classic II and Powerbook 100 in Asia-Pacific markets:

 

http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=10863&coll=ap

 

It will of course work on any Classic II (and PB 100), regardless of what language or region they originally shipped with/in.

 

I know for a fact 6.0.8L will also work on an LCII, because I've installed it on one. AFAIK it's the only way to get System 6 on an LCII.

 

Finally, at least one source claimed that 6.0.8L was a way to get System 6 running on a Color Classic - but that turned out to be false. Even though a CC motherboard is very similar to an LCII motherboard, 6.0.8L won't install on it.

 

Best,

Matt

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Interesting...when my Classic II worked, I had 6.08L on it briefly, it ran fine.

 

For the record, an LCII will run the full 6.08, I've had it on mine, and its fine.

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I went with 7.1.1 Update 3 Pro

(That is a mouthful)

 

How hard is it to dual-boot a mac?

 

It might be neat,seeing how some apps love 7 and some are crazy-fast on 6.

7.1.1 Pro is pretty fast, and reflects what the oringal oner would have been using. 6 seems to old to me. I dont know why. A machine I would run 6 on is a Plus or SE. Anything 32 bit gets 7.

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The shank of the Torx-15 driver should be 8in or more.

... And One more thing ... How can i minimize yellowing?

By keeping the Mac in an oxygen-free atmosphere, out of direct sunlight and away from heat. That will minimize oxidation of the butadiene component of the ABS plastic. Of course, it will also minimize your use of the Mac, as you will become more than a little breathless while you are using the Mac in the oxygen-free atmosphere. So don't do it often. Better still, don't do it at all.

 

It is an inescapable outcome of the ageing of light-coloured ABS that it visibly yellows. You can never do more than minimize the resulting colour-change.

 

de

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At a guess, only a plastic such as PTFE, poly-[tetrafluoroethylene] ('Teflon' is one form) can withstand the cleavage of its internal bondings by any combination of ultraviolet light, heat, pressure, oxidation and the like. Few plastics contain such a tough customer as fluorine, which, having formed a non-ionic bond with another element, almost never lets go for any reason this side of Armageddon.

 

So, don't hold your breath. It's not for no reason that most plastics are coloured for normal use.

 

de

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And One more thing...

How can i minimize yellowing?

 

Keep it out of sunlight. Don't use florescent lights/bulbs around it. Teach it Karate.

 

Nathan

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Ways to prevent yellowing have been suggested, but if it is already yellowed, you can attempt to reverse the yellowing by completely taking the system apart, and scrubbing the yellowed parts lightly with a blend of water and a little bleach. Technically, you are scrubbing the very top layer off, while bleaching it, so if you want 'mint' condition, you're out of luck. But it does remove the yellowing. (And since the yellow is a molecular change to the base material, there is no way to truly "reverse" yellowing in the material.)

 

As for dual boot, yes, it's easy. You use two partitions. There is a piece of software that lets you dual boot from a single partition, but its name escapes meat the moment.

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How sad. All plastic yellows.

 

 

My plea to scientists:

Make NonYellowing plasitc

 

yup...over the years, have seen many compact macs, go the yella

route..some not so bad, others, real bad shade of yellow..

 

also, many cases, start to turn brittle....as with printers, laserwriters,

anything else, apple produced around that time frame.

 

getting them to an atmosphere like mars, might be the way to go..

 

space pals, forever !

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