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    • I think that's a much better way to do it.  Trying to squeeze in plyers (needlenose or otherwise) would make it easy to scratch the coating on the CRT.  I've never met an anode cap that didn't come off very easily - what I do is lift up the sides to see what direction the prongs are facing.  I then hold the back of the anode cap and shift it to one side to compress the prongs and release one side and then tilt to get the one side out then you can just slide it off.  No fuss and no tools.
    • I recently picked up a G4 Mac Mini (1.42 GHz) model, with MorphOS installed on the hard drive. Since I wanted to try running the Mac Mini 9.2.2 v9 from macos9lives, I cleaned it up, removed the drive and formatted it on another Mac and finally burned the CD with the modified OS 9.   However, everything went downhill from there - after putting everything together, the Mac Mini stays on the gray screen for around 3 minutes, and them immediately starts flashing the question mark folder - it doesn't even attempt to boot the CD. What's worse, I also found out that the USB keyboard and mouse doesn't work, so I can't even eject the CD, zap the PRAM, or boot into open firmware (when I ran the previous installation of MorphOS, the mouse and keyboard worked just fine, so no idea what happened there).   Any idea how to salvage this one? Will an official USB Mac keyboard and mouse from the era solve the issue?
    • Thanks for the tip on the logic board molex connector. However, I normally have the computer set normally when I reinstall the logic board, so I can't really put my hand below the logic board.   As for the anode cap, I always thought you could simply squeeze the fingers holding it in place from the outside. Guess I was wrong, though.   Tried powering up the Classic today and it was acting up again. I was able to get it to a flashing question mark icon ... hard drive doesn't seem to spin up. (I'm assuming it isn't getting the proper voltage.) On a couple of tries the machine chimed multiple times, one try it chimed probably 5-6 times. Also noticed the pattern slowly goes away. Unlike last night, I couldn't get it past the flashing question mark icon.   Guess I'm going to have to have the analog board recapped.  I knew it was just a matter of time though... I've heard that the Classic/Classic II are notorious for having bad caps, although any old computer isn't immune.   I have a video of the behavior, but it's shaky.
    • I was curious about this as well: Does anyone know if the neck tube connections for the 5155's CRT are the same as, say, a 10ATY4N or other monitor used in pre-Type-B (i.e. non-Classic later and Classic II tubes)?   Replacement CRTs come up every now and then. I know that a neckboard and yoke from an original, say, SE/30 would be necessary to drive the tube, but as long as the neck board connector is the same I might pick one up next time I see one.
    • When pushing those molex connectors back into the analog board, a good idea is to put opposite pressure from the other side of the board. This keeps the board stiff and it doesn't bend away from you when you press the connector into the socket. This makes it a lot easier to not use so much force from one side.   Also, the anode cap is not hard to remove at all. As long as you have discharged it (as you stated you will), you can then get long, thin needle nose pliers under there, pinch together the metal fingers that are holding it in place, and lift up. The biggest benefit to the Mac ones is they are clear, and you can somewhat see what is going on under there.