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EvieSigma

Repairing broken CRT mounts on a SE

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So yeah...my CRT arrived yesterday and today I finally opened it up to check on the internals. The logic board is in great shape aside from some dust, but unfortunately something happened to the CRT. As you can see from the front, it's noticeably pushed in...and a look at the rear of the faceplate reveals broken mounts. :( 

 

My questions are:

 

1. Is it even worth fixing?

 

And if yes...

 

2. What exactly do I need to do to fix it? How much do I have to tear down? Do I need to discharge the CRT?

 

I really don't want to have to try and hunt down a dual-floppy SE face plate, nor do I want to scrap most of this SE...

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post-6780-0-58208500-1481661580_thumb.jpg

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It's not too terribly hard to find SEs, but getting a replacement front to match your existing rear bucket color-wise would probably be tricky.  If you're not concerned about color matching and don't want to try and repair your front I've got one you can have for shipping (which shouldn't be too bad).

 

As for #2, you'd have to remove the analog board to get access to all four screws holding in the CRT, which means discharging it.  It's very easy to do and there should be instructions around here somewhere for that.  If you ended up getting a second SE just to cannibalize for parts it's not like you'd be throwing away the extras afterwards.  It's always a good thing to have spare parts handy.

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I managed to get at the two broken mounts and squirt some Loctite glue on them (since they didn't shatter, they just sheared off), I'm hoping leaving the SE face-down for a couple hours will set the glue and at least let me put off buying parts for now.

 

If I'm gonna get a parts machine, I'd like a FDHD/SuperDrive parts machine so I can use the board and drive for upgrades...

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I had some pretty decent luck rebuilding similarly demolished mounts using standard "JB Weld".  I've used a lot of epoxy, this was the first I had used JB Weld for anything, and I can truly say that it's incredible beyond the shadow of any doubt.  Stuff sets like steel.

 

Normal epoxy gives you some chances, and then you can clean it up via files, etc. once it's dry.  Not so much with this stuff.  Both good and bad I guess.  :)

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This is why I ask for machines to be shipped face down. But the SE plastics are still pretty durable, it had to have taken a big hit for those to shear off like that. By the way, the SE is self-disharging. Takes a couple minutes.

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Mine was shipped face up, with a roughly 1 inch thick foam sheet over it. I guess that wasn't enough.

 

If the Loctite doesn't work, I'll have to try JB Weld. It's been unplugged since this morning so I don't need to worry about getting shocked, at least.

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I had some pretty decent luck rebuilding similarly demolished mounts using standard "JB Weld".  I've used a lot of epoxy, this was the first I had used JB Weld for anything, and I can truly say that it's incredible beyond the shadow of any doubt.  Stuff sets like steel.

 

Normal epoxy gives you some chances, and then you can clean it up via files, etc. once it's dry.  Not so much with this stuff.  Both good and bad I guess.   :)

JB weld is great, I always see if I can get away with model strength superglue first and if not I move onto the JB, works well for the interior mounts in macs.

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It's just kind of a bummer though, you know? I was excited when I saw the SE was in great shape on the outside, booted just fine on the first try (though I don't currently have any 800K system disks to run on it) and had no battery damage on the board, but then I opened it up and found that!

 

Hopefully I can fix this quickly and cheaply so I can focus my attention on gathering upgrades for this little guy.

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