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Found 3 results

  1. Hello One of my 2400c's is experiencing GLOD so after a complete teardown all fuses were checked and continuity on those fuses exist telling me they are not the cause. In the meantime I took the opportunity to document all the fuses I could find and post images of their locations here for others to take advantage of. Please note that there are three logic board types from my research. 2400c/180 with jumper cables (forces machine to adhere to 16 bit PC card type) - from what I've read this is the most common type of 180MHz machine 2400c/180 without jumper cables (forces machine to adhere to 16 bit PC card type) 2400c/240 with cardbus (32 bit PC card natively enabled) I hope these images help. In some case you may need to click the image to see a close up view yielding more detail. What is poorly documented here are the J connectors but that was not the main driver of this post. PB2400_Main_Logic_Board_Bottom_IMG_1358 PB2400_Main_Logic_Board_Bottom_IMG_1359 Fuse F4, F5 PB2400_Main_Logic_Board_Bottom_IMG_1356 Fuse F3, F4, F5, F7, F8, F11 - PB2400_Power_Circuit_Top_Fuse_Locations_IMG_1353 Fuse 2 F2 - PB2400_Power_Circuit_Top_Fuse_Locations_IMG_1352 Fuse F6, F9 - PB2400_Power_Circuit_Bottom_Fuse_Locations_IMG_1355 PB2400_Power_Circuit_Bottom_IMG_1347 PB2400_Power_Circuit_Top_IMG_1346 J8 - PB2400_MLB_Top_Jumper_Locations_IMG_1336 J9, J11 - PB2400_MLB_Top_Jumper_Locations_IMG_1337 J1, J5, J6 - PB2400_MLB_Top_Jumper_Locations_IMG_1338 J2, J3, J4 - PB2400_MLB_Top_Jumper_Locations_IMG_1339 J7 - PB2400_MLB_Top_Jumper_Locations_IMG_1340 J10 - PB2400_MLB_Top_Jumper_Locations_ROM-Switch_IMG_1341 PB2400_MLB_Top_IMG_1328 PB2400_MLB_Top_Fuse_Locations_Liberating_Cardbus_IMG_1331 Fuse F5 - PB2400_MLB_Bottom_Fuse_Locations_IMG_1333 Fuse F1 - PB2400_MLB_Top_Fuse_Locations_IMG_1332 PB2400_MLB_Bottom_IMG_1325 Fuse F2 - PB2400_MLB_Top_Fuse_Locations_IMG_1330 Fuse F3 - PB2400_MLB_Top_Fuse_Locations_IMG_1329 Fuse F4 - PB2400_MLB_Bottom_Fuse_Locations_IMG_1334
  2. Hi everyone, decided to ask for help with repairing the colour classic analog board instead of using it for parts. The details: Fuse was blown on stock CC analog board. Board has been recapped, some new resistors and zener diodes replaced, blew new fuse when switched on. Logic board has been recapped and works inside of my LC575. DF2 is still original and hasn't been checked yet. Any ideas for what to look at?
  3. Hi everyone So I have something that wouldn't really be considered unusual a very sick Macintosh Plus I have yet to see it boot or do anything else than try and kill it's self. I bought this Macintosh Plus off a Friend who had more money than sense and he bought it from Canada and had shipped here to Ireland, sadly he thought it would be a simple plug and play and he never heard of a step down converter. when he plugged straight in the Irish 250V socked it blow the crap out of it and he said it just popped. So 2 months later he offered it to me because he bought a UK one instead and I got it for a tidy €40 which is cheap on this side of the pond even for a broken one. On opening the machine I noticed 2 things the Fuse on F1 was blown looked burn't out and the thermistor on R39 was broken in half. so I replaced both of those think this may resolve the issue but both the Fuse and the thermistor blow again with spark's coming form the new thermistor and I new I did buy the right one but when I took a second look at the board both the Rectifier and Diode on CR20 and CR21 had heat damage on there legs, I have also replaced these and this fixed one issue the Thermistor no longer sparks but the fuse is still blowing when I plug it in. Yes I am using a step-down converter which I have tested that output's 117V to be exact so it should be safe. There is one more thing I can think of which is the Fuse trace lead's directly to 3 spick suppressing capacitor's the first one is a large one which I have just removed to test with a Multimeter (which I know isn't exactly accurate but my ESR meter is broken and waiting for a new one in the mail) and it has showing no signs of life on capacitance on the multimeter so I'm guessing this could be dead and causing the fuse to blow I'm not use it's only 0,1uf 250V this located on C38 and the other 2 are C33 and C37 are these known to case a fuse to blow ?. I would be very grateful for some in put on this analog board I have wanted a Macintosh Plus since my Grandad would let me play on his just a bit of nostalgia, also this Analog is starting to get expensive to repair and I'll need a solution soon before I've replaced everything on the board haha.