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Found 6 results

  1. I am having issues with my Macintosh 512k. The machine will usually boot with the checkerboard pattern shown in the pictures. Sometimes it will make a very distorted sound on boot. The issue is not with the crt as it has been tested with other boards. Occasionally the checkerboard pattern will change. I suspect the the issue is with the roms installed. I have tried cleaning the roms but this does not change the issue. I am curious if any one else has ever had a problem similar to this.
  2. Macintosh 128k Video Problem

    Hello, I recently bought a 128k Mac (non-functioning) and the seller told me that he thought that the 74F253 Ram Multiplexers were bad. But after replacing them with new Motorola ones, the screen still has the same issue. Here is a photo: I have no idea where to got from this point and a google search came up inconclusive. Please Help!!
  3. Dear members This is a PDF that I obtained from the archive.org. If you are considering taking apart your compact mac please take special care of CRT safety, this is a very good, short PDF on the topic that I hope you can all enjoy while working on your mac safely. Originally from, AppleCare Service Source http://service.info.apple.com/safety/safety.html#ESD Safety.pdf Topics covered: ESD Damage Prevention Follow these guidelines to reduce the risk of electrostatic discharge (ESD) damage to equipment. ESD Prevention Rules Setting Up an ESD-Safe Workstation CRT and LCD Safety It's imperative to know and follow all CRT safety procedures listed in this section. CRT Safe Electrical Setup Precautions Discharging the Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) Removing the CRT/Video Board Establishing an Ongoing Lead to Ground Return Worn-Out CRTs LCD Safety Battery Handling A primer on battery handling and disposal. Battery Disposal Kind regards —Alex Santos
  4. SE/30 worked until it didn't

    I'm new to this forum, if I do anything outside the rules let me know and I will correct my postings as appropriate. I recently acquired an SE/30 with 8mb ram and 80mb hard drive. It is in decent physical condition, and even included an ethernet networking card. ]'> Gentleman shipped it to me, I unpacked it, plugged it in, and used it for 5 minutes. It ran great and the display was bright and sharp. Audio was fairly quiet but working (its max was about the same as my SE FDHD's mid level I suppose) I then proceed to open up the case to put in a new battery. Luckily the original 9/1989 dated battery hadn't leaked yet. Using canned compressed air I dusted off the logic board. Surrounding almost every capacitor was a faint wet-looking spot in the dust. I'm guessing the capacitors are shot. Reassembled and hooked everything up. Upon flipping the switch it ran great for 2 minutes, then restarted on its own and continued to run normally for another ~45 seconds. At this point it hard locked, not even the mouse would move. I flipped the power off, waited 10 seconds, flipped it back on and was greeted with the standard chime but a garbled display showing roughly what had been on the display when it froze. Also, despite the regular startup chime there was no further hard drive activity. In an attempt to fix the problem, I removed the new battery and network card. Still no go. Checked voltage at hard drive power supply. I'm seeing 12.15 and 5.07. Letting the system set for 5 minutes with no power I was just getting a gray display (like you would see right before the happy mac appears) and faint startup chime, but no mouse or disk activity. At this point I stopped powering on the system as I didn't want to cause additional damage. From here, what should I do? I know the caps will need to be replaced. I've read that people wash the logic board....??? If so, what are the steps to do that? Should I do it before or after replacing the caps? Is that leaking fluid bad for the board, and if so, how long before it starts causing damage? I have very limited soldering skills. Also heard people mentioning hot air guns and this special gel that melts into solder. Youtube videos make that look a little easier but I'm not sure. Most likely, I'll go pick up an old dvd player or vcr from goodwill to practice on before trying my hand on an SE/30 board. From the description of the symptoms, is this a salvageable system?
  5. By posting this inflammatory thread I know the flames will rage high! So let it burn! Ha! Lets throw hats and chew the fat, discuss about experiences and techno-babble, and explain why it is to you. I surmise that the SE\30 will rank high, though it is not without its problems: Recapping and Cap Goo Trace Rot being the worst of them. But the SE does not have these problems though they have most of the same components. Then you have the Classic and Classic II. Though the Classic will rank well along with the SE as a 68K machine, the Classic II is another issue altogether. Then there are the 128K, 512K, 512Ke and Plus. Many good things can be said about these machines, but the biggest put down I guess will be the analog board and the issues they bring. The Beige Case can also be an issue in yellowing as well but there were a Platinum 512Ke and Platinum Plus as well. I own the 512Ke, Plus, SE\30 and the Classic II - all with their pluses and minuses and think that for their designs, they were and still are great machines. Though my first Mac was a Mac IIcx (which was later modified into a Mac IIci), my first Classic Compact Mac was a 512Ke with a SCSI/RAM/16MHz Accelerator from I believe Dove Board. Then I got a SE and a SE\30 a few months after that. And from there my collection grew. The Classic II I recently found in the trash (Summer of 14) and I rescued and repaired it - my first Compact Mac Repair in about 20 or so years! Care to thrown in a PowerBook? Explain why it fits. The Duo 210 if thrown in fits between the SE\30 and the Classic II, as all three has the 16MHz 030. The Mac Portable lines up with the Mac SE. I got a lot more to say and share but I'll post it later and end this here. This is just an introductory post to get you guys posting.
  6. Hi I have been fixing a Quadra 630CD I recently acquired from eBay and was having some issues with it's 3.5" internal manual eject FDD. After a general clean up of the machine's innards including an air pressure clean of the FDD (without disassembling the FDD) I tried a few test formats with some 'new' floppies. It seems that the FDD couldn't generate 1.44mb (less a small amount for file system) sized formatted disks - as it seemed to be losing space (bad sectors?) during the verify pass after the format (some down to 1350kb, another 1422kb). More worryingly, it seemed to damage one of my disks if that's indeed a scratch on the magnetic media - see image below (am trying manual linking this time as the insert function did not seem to work for everyone last time). Obviously, old 3.5" media can be iffy too (though again, this was a 'fresh' box of 10 1.44mb Verbatims) so I also tried a few of these disks on my SE/30 (recapped and with a restored/repaired auto inject FDHD floppy drive) and managed to get better outcomes - i.e. either a complete format of a new disk and even getting some of that 'lost' space back when re-formatting those Quadra formatted disks on the SE/30's FDHD. I did a few runs of a floppy head cleaner disk on my Quadra's drive and it seemed to get better results on a new disk, but was still losing a bit of space - 1422kb max - suggesting the drive's not up to scratch (pardon the pun). Thoughts? Is the manual inject FDD recoverable or is it just going to do more damage over time and I should toss it out and get a new refurb? Image link below. https://68kmla.org/forums/uploads/gallery/album_108/gallery_5459_108_1173136.jpg
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