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Found 68 results

  1. I recently bought a Performa 450 which was in very good condition, no visible leakages, blown-up batteries etc. When I power it on, I can only hear a clicking sound from the speaker. Fan is working correctly. I measured output of the PSU and so far it looks like I'm getting wrong voltage on +12V and +5V lines. It fluctuates around +8.5V and +2.8V respectively. -5V line shows correct voltage though. Do I have faulty voltage regulators or should I recap the PSU? It's one of the Dyna Comp (not TDK). Close-up photos attached.
  2. After recapping my Mac512's Analog Board and booting either from a floppy disk (in the internal 400k drive) or booting from the FloppyEMU, with the case back off, I can faintly hear some beeping sounds coming from the area of the analog board, but it doesn't seem to be the speaker that I can tell. Here's a recording of the entire boot sequence, booting off the FloppyEMU: Mac512k_FloppyEMU_BootSounds.mp3 Honestly, I can't remember if I had heard these sounds before the recap, since I normally have the case on. The flyback is good (and tested in a dark room), but it wouldn't make beep sounds anyway, and certainly not during floppy access. Again, there are no sounds like this at all normally. The sounds only occur during floppy drive access, whether the 400k drive or the externally connected FloppyEMU. Voltage is a rock solid 5.0V during the floppy drive access, so that isn't an issue. I also checked the voltage on a scope, before and after the recap, and there was no change after the recap. I recapped the motherboard (stock 512k, with 64k ROMs) many years ago using tantalum capacitors. I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts.
  3. Below are 2 photos of AC line filter "LF2" from two different Macintosh 128k~Plus Analog Boards. The newest board is stamped 4192 (1986 PCB), which I assume means 42nd week of 1992, and uses the LF2 without the green Earth wire. The other PCB is a 1983-84 version stamped 0792, which I assume means 7th week of 1992, and you can see it has the green earth wire wound inside LF2. Indeed, most every Analog Board I've seen has the Earth wire wound in LF2. Why do you think the green Earth ground wire was not wound into LF2 on the 4192 board? By the way, the 3-pin power connector mounts those 3 pins to the PCB, but the Earth pin has no PCB trace. Regardless of which board we look at, the Earth ground coming from the power cord screws down to the metal chassis, so the chassis is Earth grounded. It's simply a matter of why that green Earth wire does or does not go through LF2 that I am curious about. Search this PDF for "LF2" as a keyword to see the schematic which mentions that it does indeed go through LF2. Hmmm...
  4. Hello everyone! I was just wondering if anyone knows where I might be able to find the 1984 Macintosh Security Kit for sale (see the pictures below for what I’m looking for)? I’ve tried looking on eBay, but I don’t think there’s anyone selling them! If anyone could recommend some places that I might be able to find them and buy them, that would be really appreciated! Thank you everyone!
  5. I tend to swap out the electrolytics in a recap and leave the film or metalized paper caps alone if they are good. Some among us have experienced blown filter caps near the power input on the original Macintosh analog boards, specifically these Rifa caps: C33: 4700pf 250VAC Minibox (sometimes found to be 2200pf?) C37: 4700pf 250VAC Minibox (sometimes found to be 2200pf?) C38: 0.1uF 250V Minibox The stock Rifa caps all appear to be metalized paper capacitors. A directed replacement for C33 and C37 would be the KEMET PME271YA4470MR30, also metalized paper. But would a Polypropylene version safety capacitor like the WIMA MKY22W14703F00KSSD be a better choice? There is also the KEMET F462AG472J1L2A polypropylene cap, but it is not classified as safety and therefore I do not know if it's failure mode would be open circuit when it blows. Similar thinking should apply to replacements for C38. Please let me know your thoughts. Thank you.
  6. I scored four NuBus cards in an IIfx, and one of them was the Thunder IV GX 1360! The IIfx was sold as untested, and still, it works like a charm, even with the original 160 MB Seagate! Thank you @Bolle for helping me out identifying the cards!
  7. macfan2350

    Rom Question

    Hey guys, I just have a simple question to ask. I have a Macintosh 128k with what I think to be a 512k upgrade board. It even says 512k on a little sticker on the board. However, it is missing the Roms to it. It just displays a checkerboard. My question to you guys is, what roms should I purchase? 512k roms or 128k roms. Thanks again, any help is welcome.
  8. macfan2350

    Fine vertical line on 128k

    Hey guys, hope your doing well. I wanted to ask another favor of you guys. A while ago, I had asked about my mac 128 with a fine vertical line issue. You guys asked me to reflow the solder, which I have done. However, the problem still persists, and I wanted to ask if you had any ideas. I get no beep. just a fine vertical line. Sorry for not getting back after over 4 years. Thanks again. I really appreciate it. See attached photos:
  9. Hey! I'm trying to find the software that is featured on the cover of the first edition Macintosh Plus manual, which can be found here! It looks like a spreadsheet/charts application, but I can't seem to find anything about it on the internet. Thanks everyone!
  10. curtiscoffee

    Macintosh SE Not Working

    Hi, This is my first post on these forums. I felt this would be the best place to come to ask how to get my Macintosh SE working again. So I managed to get my hands on this Macintosh SE. It came with the original manuals, mouse, keyboard, and even a carry bag! I paid around $5 New Zealand dollars for it. Yes I can't believe it either. So when I got it home, I plugged it in and it turned on, and it worked! I think that the disk drive is dead, because it just had the disk logo with a question mark and ejected the yellow protector disk. I left it on for a few hours. I then noticed a burning smell and smoke came out of the back of it. I opened it and being very careful i turned it on and i noticed that the flyback transformer was arcing and the monitor wasn't turning on, But I did get the start up sound and the fan was running. At first I thought a cap had popped on the analog board, but after inspecting it they all look perfectly fine. Also checking the main board it looks perfectly fine and the battery hasn't leaked. Has anyone else had this problem before? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Hopefully, this would come in handy for anyone curious about the PCMCIA module made for the PowerBook 500 series. I've posted as many pictures from various angles of the board assembly and parts (in case anyone has interest in planning modifications and how much space is inside the module) as I don't intend to open this up very often. If at all. There are three hex screws, one plastic tab, and a sticker holding my Rev C module together. I didn't have a hex bit of the correct size, but a Torx T6 proved a snug fit that allowed me to remove the screws. When I depressed the plastic tab back a small distance, I was able to carefully lift and separate the pieces only slightly, hinging at the sticker in the back. Some patient "working" back and forth allowed me to carefully separate the sticker from one of the pieces, and the unit was opened. I worked the board assembly from the back to the front to lift it from the bottom molding. The module ejection mechanism is separate from the board, and is a fixture on the bottom molding - it may be difficult to replace if it becomes damaged. Here is the bottom side of the board assembly. All pieces, angled, minus screws. Left side top (from front of module). Right side top (from front of module). Left side bottom (from front of module). Right side bottom (from front of module). Overview of bottom of board. All pieces of the module. Front hinging doors of the module. There is one stretched "rubber band" that acts to spring the doors back to resting position. If this part breaks someday, you could probably just install a rubber band to replace it...I'm actually surprised this one hasn't dry-rotted, yet. Or hack another spring assembly to your fancy. Okay. Just let me know when you make USB and cardbus possible for the 500 series.
  12. The quantum hard disk in my color classic died, so I bought a SCSI2SD and was reading some information about it on codesrc.com and there was written that SCSI2SD needs to run on 5V or else the board would break.
  13. Just uploaded my Apple Hard Disk 20SC recapping video, which also covers the 40SC, 80SC and 160SC since they all use the same SONY CR-43 PSU. Check the text description for a Mouser Cart and useful info. At the end, I do a boot test with a 2015 15" MBP.
  14. I finally kicked out my Apple TechStep video today. This has been long in coming. Be sure to check out the text description beneath my video on YouTube because it contains a link to a SIT file containing Disk Copy images of the two included floppies, one of which has a pretty neat HyperCard stack.
  15. Hey everyone! I ordered some floppy disks a few days back and they arrived today. All the Floppy Disks are 1.44MB High Density Disks, and they are all unformatted. However, I am having an issue with them. When I insert them into the Macintosh SE/30, I get the menu to initialise them, and then it goes through the "Initialisation" process. It says "Formatting Disk", then "Verifying Disk" and then it ejects the disk and it says "Initialisation Failed". Nothing else. I'm very new to this, so I don't really know what could be causing this. The disks are unlocked and are not protected. How can I fix this? Thanks
  16. Charadis

    PowerBook 550c

    Hey, all! I've been lurking around here for a while, enjoying all of the acquisition posts and knowledge from the different subgroups of this community. Reading about the stories posted here really got me excited about vintage hardware from one of my favorite tech companies. I wanted to make sure my first post would be on the "Apple" of my eye. I've been hunting for a PowerBook 550c for a few years, and lately, the time has been ripe. I recently acquired one on Yahoo! Auctions, which had the 100Mhz (or 99MHz?) PPC upgrade and 32MB module installed. I also found a PCMCIA Rev C module and a NUpowr 500 167MHz 8MB daughterboard/set. There were a couple issues: when I picked up the package, I was so excited that I had to open it right there in my car outside on the lot. I was worried about the long trip it had to take overseas that it could be damaged, and I did not insure the package. It was dark, but I had the Map light on, and looking at the unit took my breath away. It was a sight to behold. As I played with the "feet," I ended up snapping the left side foot trying to pop it out. Some JB Wield/superglue remedied that, and has held up very very well so far! Also, the right side battery had corrosion that ruined the battery contacts inside. I'm just glad the unit still functioned, but I wanted a permanent solution. I bought a 520 on eBay recently, and transplanted the right side battery contact module over to the 550c. The transplant was a success, and I successfully revived one of the batteries that the unit came with using the Intelligent Battery Recondition and EMM VST program after reading here on some of the past experiences of users that posted previously. This was merely just so I had some kind of verification that my soldering work was not crap (: Here is a picture of the current setup. I am truly ecstatic about this new addition to my Mac fam, and I truly appreciate the wealth of knowledge I've been reading here on the forums. I am still waiting for a IDE -> CF card adapter. The drive that was included in my 550c was a 1GB Apple-branded IBM drive connected to a SCSCI -> IDE attachment by ADTX. Enjoy the pics! I have quite a few more, but having trouble loading them up here. If I can load more later, I post an update! Cheers
  17. Hello, My Macintosh SE/30 motherboard has been having issues since I received the computer in mid July. First of all, it used to turn on and do the simasimac, and death chimes but then I sent it out to MacCaps, and he tried to repair to no avail. It did the same thing when I got it back, so I tried washing the board in 5% White vinegar, but that didn't do anything. Any suggestions? Thanks! -Ryan
  18. Charadis

    Boxed PB 2400c/240 - 56K Warning

    Quite possibly the last vintage Mac I plan to collect. I've been looking for a boxed 2400c/240 for a little while; it has only become my Holy Grail after I acquired my 550c. So, for me, a significant conquest. Final Bid price: 30,500 yen (272.99 USD current) Shipping/Fees charge: 14,192 yen (127.03 USD current) Auction Linky I found this set on Yahoo! Auctions Japan late February. I also bought an extra set of restore software about the same time, and had them consolidate shipping, so you'll see the software actually shrinkwrapped with the computer box in the pic. Finally received today, since I postponed the shipment with FromJapan until after I returned from my trip to Europe. The main unit has an English keyboard installed, but the previous owner included the original Japanese keyboard. Something weird with the screen, like many examples of PowerBooks I've observed seem to develop these strange aberrations over time. There is also a faux-leather skin installed on the palm rest, mouse key...and that's it. Very clean unit, almost museum quality (in my personal, non-expert opinion. With exception to the LCD, of course). I haven't tried powering on the computer, yet. I'd like to remove the PRAM battery before I do, and that will take an afternoon. Warranty papers included. Serial matching box and paperwork. The 64MB RAM isn't inside the box, it is empty. Apple stickers! Where should I stick these?
  19. Yes, even the Macintosh 128k/512k KEYBOARD needs to be recapped: But does it really need to be 63V? Here's the keyboard schematic, with the 1uF cap showing in the upper right area nearest U2: And U2 is the 74LS123 shown here: Sure, I can find a Mouser $3.23 replacement, but why is the stock cap rated at 63V? Is it because people might be stupid and connect the keyboard to a phone jack, or is there some other reason? The reason I even wonder about this is because if lower voltage 1uF caps can safely be used in this keyboard, then more replacement options present themselves that are better and cheaper too. I look forward to your insightful replies!
  20. North Hedge Ned

    Macintosh Portables Dead

    Hello, I know that there is much discussion around the Mac Portables and their woes with powering up. So much information, in fact, that I have become lost in it all and have no idea where to start. So, if I may, some simple questions, and some directional guidance required. I have several of these beasties and they all do not seem to start up. Some don't boot at all, some boot then power off, some boot, show a mouse, and the drive tries to spin up then shuts off. One I had boot and went straight to sad Mac. It even ran off the replacement battery that I had in it (6v 5maAh lead-acid, new, fully charged), in this sad Mac state. However when I disconnected power and tried again, it would not boot. I always had the cutoff switch engaged when trying to boot from the main battery. With adapter connected (a real Portable Adapter) I am getting the 7.1 v reading at the main terminals inside the computer with the cutoff engaged. With my battery connected, I get the same. When I activate the cutoff (as in have the switch open) and my battery connected, I am reading the 6.3v of the connected battery at the terminals. Questions: 1. Must the 9V battery be installed for the unit to function properly? 2. If I were to pul the board, is there a concise step by step with photos of how and what to test with my multi-meter? Would this resource also tell me what to replace and how? I do not have the means to remove old solder. Looking for guidance and a resource to dive into. I ultimately wish to sell these things, and suspect that the cost to fix is more than recovered by the sale of a functional unit vs a dead one. Thank you all in advance! Paul
  21. I recently bought a Macintosh Quadra 700 off of eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Apple-Macintosh-Quadra-700-M5920-Desktop-Computer-w-Harddrive-Mac-iMac/273781054522?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) and it has some corrosion on the logic board from a leaky battery. When I was cleaning the corrosion off, several components fell off of the board. The parts that came off were R71, C61, R76, R77, Y6, and C65. D5, D6, and U91 are still on the board, but their pins don't look too great. U92 has nearly all of its pins broken off and it is hanging on by two or three pins. I tested the continuity of all of the traces that I could follow in the damaged area and everything seemed to be connected. When I try to turn the computer on, the power LED lights up and the speaker clicks once (but does not chime). Do you think that the symptoms are caused by the missing parts or are the power-on issues more likely the fault of bad traces that I didn't catch? If any of the missing parts are necessary for operation, please tell me the correct component value so that I can replace them. I hope that U92 is not needed for the machine to power on because it seems to be a custom chip that is probably impossible to find. Attached are some pictures of the damaged area so that you can see what I am referring to. I hope I can save this one because I have always wanted a working Quadra 700!
  22. Picked up an old, very dusty Macintosh 7100/66 from a guy in Cincinnati about a year or so ago. Worked for a while but one day I heard some crackling noises coming from within the PSU. Unplugged it very quickly and cracked open the PSU to find the devastating scene in the attached photo. I noticed one of the IC's was fried pretty badly, so I bought a replacement and installed it. However, upon plugging in the power supply a second time, the IC fried in the same exact way it had before. I've circled it red in one of the attached photos. I really have no idea how this PSU works, but what might be frying that little chip? I'm OK at soldering, but still pretty bad at diagnosing component-level issues. I also have a lower-end fluke multi-meter so I can check diodes, capacitance, and that sort of thing. In fact, I checked the two larger caps and they were still functioning. Thanks to anyone who can give some advice! Edit: Just realised I put this in the Apple II Category by mistake. Could a mod help me move it to the PowerPC category? Thanks.
  23. I just recapped my Macintosh IICX because it was having the common issue where the computer won't turn on and the power supply just clicks over and over again. Also, the sound wasn't working. After recapping the computer, the machine turns on just fine, but there is no chime and nothing is displayed on the screen. Do you think that I messed something up while recapping it or is there some other explanation to this problem? By the way, it worked fine before I did the recap on the rare occasion that it would actually power on without clicking repeatedly.
  24. AlexTheCat123

    Value of a Radius Accelerator Card

    Hello! I found a Radius Accelerator SE card in a Macintosh SE that I recently acquired like the one seen in the image attached. It contains a 68020 running at 16 megahertz and also has a 68881 FPU. The card seems to work fine, but I can't seem to find much information about it or what it is worth online. Can anyone give me a price for it so that when I sell it a get a good deal? Thanks!
  25. I recently picked up a PowerBook 180c that boots up and seems to work perfectly, with the exception of the floppy drive. It will read the floppies just fine, but the Finder always shows the disk locked icon, regardless of whether the disk is write-protected or not. I took the floppy drive out of the computer and the mechanism appears to be bent in such a way that the left side of the floppy is higher than the right side when it is seated in the drive, which seems to be preventing the write protect micro switch from triggering. I confirmed this by pressing on the left side of the disk when it was in the drive, and sure enough, I could write files to the disk. I tried bending the mechanism a bit to permanently fix the problem, but to no avail. Does anyone have any ideas about how to fix this? Thanks! Alex
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