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davidg5678

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  1. davidg5678

    Starting on the SE

    Before you try making floppy disks, it is important to determine whether or not you have a "SuperDrive" or an 800k floppy drive. If you have a SuperDrive, your SE will be able to read high-density 1.4MB, 800k, and 400k-ish floppy disks. An 800k drive will not read anything high-density. Regardless, 400k floppy disks are probably better for use on older Macs --400k and 800k disks will be impossible to read or write to with your USB drive and will probably be way too small for a System 7 installer.
  2. davidg5678

    SE/30 Logicboard Video Issues

    I have been attempting to fix this board without success. I remade several broken traces that went to the chips around UE8 with 30 gauge wire. I also noticed that many traces around C4 were missing solder mask and beginning to corrode. I removed some of the parts in this area to get a better look at the extent of the damage. The attached pictures show an overhead view of the logic board and a close up of the worst corner. (The reset switch, Sony chip, and C4 were removed by me after the computer was broken -I need to run new traces to C4 as I ripped both pads...) Please let me know if you have any ideas about why this is not working. Thanks!
  3. davidg5678

    SE/30 Horizontal Lines

    I would recommend looking for rotted traces around the UE8 chip with a magnifying lens. Something like this may be caused by corrosion in that area.
  4. davidg5678

    SE/30 Logicboard Video Issues

    My SE/30 Logic Board has recently stopped booting and now shows garbled video on the screen. It has been recapped and is being tested with a functioning PSU and Analog board (My SE motherboard works fine inside this shell) This board worked correctly for about a year after being recapped, but it now displays a pattern on the screen that looks different from simasimac. I reflowed the solder joints on all of the chips around UE8, but this did not fix anything. Is there a particular chip that controls video generation that may be faulty?
  5. davidg5678

    Problems on System 7 with SCSI2SD

    I would recommend following the HFSFromScratch guide from the SCSI2SD website. It is buried several pages deep, so many people do not seem to know about it. This guide allows you to create an emulated hard disk that can then be transferred onto a SCSI2SD. It involves downloading and installing the operating system to an emulated disk image on your modern mac and running the provided hfdisk utility to correctly transfer everything over to the SCSI2SD while keeping things bootable. This method should allow you to bypass any physical media related install issues. I have had success with an SD card "hard drive image" slightly smaller than 2GB. (1.8ish GB) I would also recommend using Mini vMac over Basilisk II. http://www.codesrc.com/mediawiki/index.php/HFSFromScratch
  6. I just tried switching my SE/30 Logic Board with one from my Macintosh SE, and I was able to boot up the computer without any problems at all. The display looked fine and stood up to a smack on the side of the case, and the PSU had solid and normal voltages. This probably means that the problem lies in the video circuitry of the SE/30.
  7. My recapped SE/30 (analog board, logic board, and PSU) has begun to exhibit a strange problem. When I flip the power switch on, one of four things happens: Fan Spins, No video output Fan Spins, Extremely Garbled Video output (see video #1) Fan Spins, Thin vertical line briefly flashes on the screen, no video output (I was unable to recreate this) Fan Spins, Thin horizontal line briefly flashes on the screen, no video output (see video #2) After checking the components on the motherboard, analog board, and PSU, everything seems to be intact, and I did not see or smell any burning parts. I am unsure what to test next or what might be wrong with the machine as this does not resemble any single issue I have read about. I am happy to provide more pictures of the circuits. Please let me know if you have any ideas about how to fix this. Thank you! SE30_HorizontalLine.MOV SE30_GarbledVideo.MOV
  8. davidg5678

    G3 B&W motherboard upgrade to G4

    I would recommend searching online for a Hardware Test ISO to burn as there is no advantage to getting an original CD that may or may not work.
  9. davidg5678

    Recommend a support Mac for my Color Classic Mystic

    A Powermac G5 is capable of running both 10.4 Tiger and 10.5 Leopard. A new enough and well upgraded G5 can survive somewhat decently on the modern-ish internet using the 10 FourFox browser. These operating systems are both capable of writing to HFS partitions without any hacks. (Meaning that Zip or Floppy disks can be directly used.) 10.4 Tiger is also able to run the classic environment as a compatibility layer for OS9 and below. This means you could probably decompress stuffit files with appropriate software. In terms of burning CDs, I believe it is possible to do under the most recent operating systems as an iso file does not get decompressed during the burn process. What would probably be preferable would be to look for a Beige PowerMac G3 machine as they are some of the most powerful computers with compatibility for older Macs (features including USB, ADB, Ethernet, LocalTalk, Floppy/Zip Support, and SCSI. They also can run OS8 through 10.2.8. A G4 Tower or Laptop would also be better than a G5 as many can boot directly into OS9 (which is better than classic) while doing everything else the G5 can without being as massive. Before buying anything, I would highly recommend checking the exact model for compatibility with the OS you want. (Not all G4s can run OS9.)
  10. Thanks for the suggestions! I have successfully patched the trace. I initially tried to cut away the destroyed chunk of trace and run a patching strand of wire but damaged the ends of the trace too much to allow for it to happen. I then decided to run a wire from point to point instead. Because I would have had extraordinary difficulty following the trace by hand, I took several pictures of the board and drew a line following the trace's path on my computer. (See attached images.) After this, it was easy enough to just run the wire. I now need to figure out a way to keep it from accidentally getting ripped from the board... My current soldering iron is a standard 40 watt Weller that has no temperature adjustment features. It has worked well in the past, but it might be time to get a nicer soldering station. I was able to clean up the pins on the rest of the components and make them shiny again. --Now for attempting to repair the pads and replacing the destroyed components. Does anyone know what part would be a suitable substitute for D5 and D6? It looks like they are a sort of surface mount transistor.
  11. Can you explain how to do this? I set my multimeter to ohms and measured between the two sides of the battery holder, but couldn't get any reading. Trying to do this has created a much larger problem. Some of these reflowed without a problem, but it looks like the pads on a few were terribly corroded as they fell apart when they were touched by my iron. I am now left with some destroyed pads and a very damaged trace to repair. Does anyone know the way to repair something like this? Thank you!
  12. Thank you for your responses -I apologize for the delay as I was on vacation. After writing my original post I decided to check the voltage of the batteries inside the mac. I had figured both batteries would be working as I had installed them brand new the month before. To my surprise, one of the batteries was reading .6 volts and the other 3.6 volts. I replaced the .6 volt battery with a brand new one and the computer's power circuit started to behave slightly better. I was able to use soft power unreliably for about an hour until it stopped working again. The voltage on the Power Supply Control pin was even closer to the 5 volts it should be instead of the .6 volts from before. I went on vacation after this and upon returning found that my brand new battery had been drained to about .6 volts. The other battery was still normal. I checked the voltages that AwkwardPotato suggested but found them all to be at least a volt too low. --Maybe this is due to one the dead batteries? I also noticed that the legs of Q3 and Q4 looked slightly less shiny than their surroundings. I will try to reflow these with fresh flux and solder. Is there anything that would cause the battery to die so quickly while the computer was unplugged? I have attached some pictures of the motherboard. Thanks again!!
  13. As referenced in a previous thread, I am working on restoring a Macintosh II. This machine’s power-on circuit seems to be broken. The entire logic board has been recapped and cleaned to the best of my ability -I also repaired several damaged traces. Two 1/2 AA batteries have been installed in sockets. When I press the power button on my keyboard or at the back of the machine, nothing happens at all. I am able to run an alligator clip from one of the batteries to the rightmost PSU pin in order to jump-start the computer, but this is definitely less than optimal. I checked the PSU voltages under load and verified they are all within .2ish volts of normal. I also noticed that when the machine is powered off and I read voltage between the rightmost PSU pin and ground, I can make the value spike to .6 volts from 0 volts upon pressing the keyboard power button. I am not sure if this is normal behavior. (maybe someone can verify?) After being recapped with repaired traces, is there any obvious reason I have these issues? Please let me know if you have any ideas. Thank you! I am happy to provide more information and/or photos.
  14. davidg5678

    Creating HFS Images in macOS?

    I have been experimenting with something similar after reading about it in another thread. With the Basilisk II emulator, it is possible to mount Zip Disks containing a bootable MacOS installation directly into the emulator on a modern mac. Basilisk II is able to view the modern mac filesystem from within emulation as a drive labeled Unix. I am able to download files from the internet, decompress them with The Unarchiver under High Sierra, and then view and copy the files directly onto the Zip Disk from the emulator. The Zip Disk can then (theroretically) be booted on original hardware. This method should also allow for booting off an image on the modern mac and just mounting floppy disks in the emulation.
  15. davidg5678

    Ext floppy drive stuck?

    Isopropyl Alcohol on a Q-Tip does a very good job removing the old grease. As clean as your drive may be, there is a high chance that there is dust buildup on many different places in the drive. Carefully following the above video is probably all you need to do in order to get everything up and running again. The video details how to disassemble the drive mechanism which will allow you to move the jammed mechanism back into position.
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