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davidg5678

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  1. davidg5678

    Recapped Macintosh II will not boot

    I repaired the broken trace above C7, the trace near the power button, and the trace near D4. I also replaced the 10uf 16v capacitor with a new tantalum one. It looks like there were already surface mount pads in place underneath the axial capacitor, so I connected to these. While working on the traces, I scratched off a little solder mask on each side of the corrosion, placed solder on the exposed copper, and put a thin wire over the gap. The system immediately powered on when I pressed the button on the keyboard -much better than before. Besides turning on the power supply when the button on the keyboard is pressed, the computer seems unchanged. There is still no boot chime, and the screen does not display any picture or do anything besides turn on. The hard drive stops accessing after about ten seconds into startup. This is about the same as when it was jump-started. Are there much more than three damaged traces to fix? Thanks again!
  2. davidg5678

    Recapped Macintosh II will not boot

    Thanks for the help! I will take a better look at the motherboard and try to fix some of the traces. With any luck, my Macintosh II will start working.
  3. davidg5678

    iBook Clamshell White Screen

    If a broken fuse in the display is the cause of the problem, I would carefully disassemble the display after removing it from the main computer and look for a charred component. It may be helpful to post some pictures of the circuit boards for this. I would highly recommend following a guide as the Clamshell can be very difficult to take apart without one.
  4. I am in the process of restoring a Macintosh II and have already thoroughly cleaned the case and components. After cleaning the motherboard with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol bath, I recapped the motherboard with tantalum capacitors. I did not see a small yellow electrolytic capacitor when ordering parts, so this one remains stock for now. I removed both of the batteries and replaced them with 1/2 AA Battery holders. These both have fresh batteries in them. After completing the recap, I reassembled the machine and plugged it into an Apple Color HighRes RGB Monitor I know works with my Macintosh iisi. On pressing the power button on my keyboard, nothing happened on the computer at all. The button at the back also did nothing. I read online about jump-starting the computer with an alligator clip and battery -I tried this and was able to get the power supply to light up and the hard drive to spin. The display also received power but did not display any picture. I disconnected the hard drive and tried this again, but did not even receive a blinking floppy on the screen —it remained black. Something interesting is that when the computer is jump-started, the power button at back shuts it off. Attached are some pictures of the recapped motherboard. (This was my first time using a hot air station instead of a soldering iron.) I did not really see much damage to the traces apart from one spot, but this did not look too bad. Please let me know if you have any ideas about how to proceed. Thank you!
  5. davidg5678

    iBook Clamshell White Screen

    It is possible that an internal capacitor or other component has failed. If this is the case, the failed part would need to replaced with a new one. To start off, I would unplug and plug the screen from the motherboard and check if this fixes things. If this does not help, look for charred components on the motherboard. I would recommend using half of an old egg carton as a way to organize screws. (An ice cube tray is better if you have one) Each compartment can correspond to each step. iFixit.com has excellent repair guides for the Clamshell. Good Luck!
  6. davidg5678

    Brand New SE/30 Logic Board

    I believe I read that once the caps are powered on, the process of leaking accelerates. I definitely second tanaquil on replacing the caps. They will fail.
  7. davidg5678

    Software for Mac SE

    You may want to investigate installing the Connectix Ram Doubler system extension which allows you to create virtual memory and double your 4MB of ram to 8MB. I think the "RAM" is taken from a chunk of disk space, but it certainly makes my SE/30 better to use. I cannot remember if I used this on my SE before I switched out the motherboard for an SE30 one, but this would certainly help (assuming it is compatible). You can run System 7.5.5, but it is almost painfully slow to use.
  8. davidg5678

    eMMC or SD better for Pismo 500 down to PB190 . . .

    I have seen several very small 2.5" IDE to SD adapters online, but I am not sure whether or not they would be bootable. These would make for very convenient drives as compact flash has much higher pricing than SD cards. Here is one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/QNINE-Adapter-Memory-Converter-Laptop/dp/B01N33LAVV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1529770999&sr=8-3&keywords=ide+to+sd
  9. davidg5678

    Macintosh SE fan noise

    The SE had two fan variants: One that is a standard size computer fan and one that is very different. As long as your SE has a standard fan, it is as simple as undoing some screws and desoldering some wires from the analog board. I tried replacing my fan a while ago with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006B8E7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It did not reduce noise very much and it is still quite loud; I would not recommend it. I think the problem is that the SE has no fan control and runs everything at 100% power. It might be possible to add a strong resistor or potentiometer in line with the fan to take some of the speed/noise down, but I have not investigated. I do know that Noctua fans are much higher quality and might still be quiet at 100% speed.
  10. davidg5678

    Mac SE internal floppy won't recognize disks

    I would first recommend lubricating the floppy drive in the SE along with cleaning the drive heads with isopropyl alcohol on Q-tips. This will probably fix things. The drive may not be able to move into all of the positions of the floppy disk, so it reports it as corrupt. It is possible that you somehow misaligned the drive heads when you replaced the eject gear. The drive would then be out of sync with the data on the disk and report it as corrupt. This can happen if you pull the heads too far apart from each other. This would also deform the drive head springs and prevent them from pressing down on top of the disk the correct way. I do not think it is possible for the user to realign the heads, and doing so will probably cause more harm than good. For lubrication and drive cleaning, I recommend following this tutorial: (pay attention to the "clock position" part of the eject motor he talks about -it may also be incorrect from before.)
  11. KeenerB, Although the FloppyEmu does Macintosh HD20 hard drive emulation, it is not compatible with an SE/30. It works on the other compact macs prior to the SE/30, but compatibility for the HD20 is not implemented in the ROM of the SE/30. (I think you can buy a 3rd party compatible ROM, but it costs just as much as a separate hard drive emulator.) I suggest looking at the SCSI2SD for hard drive emulation -it is a little fiddly to set up, but it works extremely well once it is. If you haven't already, I would definitely recommend following a floppy drive lubrication tutorial before trying to use the floppy drive and boot off of any floppies. An unlubricated drive can strip the teeth off of the gears in the ejection motor. There are replacements available on eBay if this has already happened, but it is best to avoid altogether. I have linked a great tutorial explaining how to do this. Good Luck!
  12. davidg5678

    Connecting a Macintosh iisi to a VGA monitor

    Thanks for the suggestion: I cleaned the entire computer and motherboard thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, but unfortunately it had no effect. I need more information about the way the IIsi works with displays before continuing with recapping.
  13. davidg5678

    Connecting a Macintosh iisi to a VGA monitor

    I attached the CRT to my G4 Cube with VGA and was able to run the display at 640x480 60hz, but the G4 would not let me set anything lower. (I think I read something about 15hz?) I took a closer look at the IIsi and realized that it does not have a boot chime. This probably means there are some capacitor issues with the computer. I would like to determine if I can even theoretically use the computer with my monitors before attempting a re-cap. (there is no noticeable damage after cleaning the board) I re-read a post above where a Pivot Cable was mentioned: what is the purpose of such a cable? Can someone explain what the Pivot Card does and how to use it? -I am not sure I understand. I do not know where to continue from here. Thanks for all of the help!
  14. davidg5678

    Connecting a Macintosh iisi to a VGA monitor

    I have a PowerMac G4 that can probably run the screen at 640x480. I am unsure whether or not the G4 will run the screen at the same frequencies necessary for a IIsi. I will test it out today.
  15. davidg5678

    Connecting a Macintosh iisi to a VGA monitor

    I did a ton of troubleshooting with my monitor adapters, and I was not able to get anything to display on the screen. My Belkin adapter looks the most promising, but it is missing a plastic knob which might be necessary for use. I am unsure whether or not this makes a difference, but I have a Radius Color Pivot IIsi Video Interface Card. Does this fix the video subsystem issues? I have no clue how to use it or if I can set it up without first using the computer normally. I looked up the model number of my CRT (Dell 781s) and found this: https://web.archive.org/web/20011220004743/http://docs.us.dell.com:80/docs/monitors/688en/en/spec.htm#General I appreciate the help, and I really hope I can get this to work!!
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