Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

444 profile views
  1. davidg5678

    davidg5678's Computer Finds

    Here are some photos of the restoration of the ADB Mouse: Mouse before cleaning and retrobrite: The adhesive meant to secure the smooth plastic strips on the bottom shell had turned a dark shade of brown, and the bottom of the mouse was significantly yellower than the top. (Also notice the color difference between the bottom housing and its label.) In order to restore this mouse, I had to disassemble the housing and clean both halves thoroughly with cleaning spray. (The mouse was small and simple enough that soapy water was not necessary.) After this, I pried up the friction-reducing strips from the bottom of the shell and scrubbed them with isopropyl alcohol until all of the brown adhesives were removed. (I then replaced the adhesive with some double-sided tape) I also used isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to clean the dirt from the cable. Once this was done, I decided I would retrobrite the plastic. I have not had much success retrobriting before, but because of the small size of the mouse, I was able to completely submerge it in hydrogen peroxide from the drugstore. I kept it underneath some UV lamps for about 18 hours, and I am very pleased with the results. After cleaning/restoration:
  2. davidg5678

    davidg5678's Computer Finds

    I have now (more or less) completed the task of cleaning up the remaining peripherals. The keyboard was by far the most difficult to clean aspect of the project due to the irregular shape of the keys, and so it took the most time to restore. Otherwise, everything went fairly smoothly. Keyboard before cleaning: As you can see, quite a large amount of dirt built up between the keys of the keyboard, so it was necessary to completely disassemble and clean the entire unit. Once inside, I discovered yet more dirt which had fallen under the PCB. I separated each component for deep cleaning. In order to get the keycaps cleaned, I decided to use the same hot and soapy water method as before, so I carefully removed each and every keycap and placed them inside the bottom plastic shell. I let the keys soak for a while and then scrubbed each and every key individually to remove the grime. It took over an hour of scrubbing before I was able to get everything clean. The main plastic housing cleaned up without any trouble. After drying everything off, I reassembled the keyboard. It looks and feels MUCH better to type on; however, I discovered that the keyswitches for the left shift key and the number pad's nine key were broken. The white plastic plunger had cracked and caused the switches to not be as springy as the others. I was able to find replacement parts for sale, and I plan to replace the broken mechanisms. I also plan to retrobrite the entire keyboard in the future although submerging so many keycaps may prove difficult. After cleaning: Stay tuned for photos of restoring the mouse and monitor!
  3. Is it possible to do this if the disks are not ProDOS formatted?
  4. My Apple IIgs only came with a single 3.5" floppy drive, and I would like to use it to run some games and software which came on 5.25" floppy disks. I have ADTPro set up and working, but I am not able to use this setup for transferring games without a 5.25" floppy drive (at least according to the documentation). Is there a way to convert a 5.25" floppy disk image so that I can use it on the 3.5" disks? If not, is there another way (short of buying a FloppyEmu) that I can get software onto the computer? I do have an AsanteTalk, so I could try A2Server, although I'm not sure if that would be helpful in this situation. Thanks!
  5. davidg5678

    davidg5678's Computer Finds

    I have finished cleaning up the Apple IIgs which works perfectly (as far as I can tell). Before cleaning, the computer was covered in a thick (and difficult to remove) layer of dirt. There is an unusual bulge in the back of the plastic housing here, but I am not sure how it was made. I began the cleaning process by removing the top cover from the computer and taking out the power supply and memory expansion. Luckily, the clock battery had not leaked inside the computer, but I removed it anyway to be safe. It was manufactured in May of 1988. After this, I removed the motherboard from the computer and set it aside. The amount of dirt on the outside of the computer made it difficult to clean with just paper towels and cleaning spray, so I decided to completely disassemble the machine and use soapy water. I removed the motherboard from the bottom housing and then used flush-cut snips to clip off the plastic tabs holding in the metal shielding. I did this because there was a ton of dirt underneath the shields which I need to remove. Additionally, I did not want any water to get trapped underneath the metal and cause it to rust. Once all of the metal was removed from the case, I was left with three pieces of plastic. I rinsed each of these with hot water and dish soap inside a utility sink. I found a very useful small paintbrush to break up dirt trapped inside of the decorative lines and around the ports while I was cleaning them. This process left the computer looking very clean, and after drying the plastic, I put the machine back together. Beforehand, I had used a brush to remove loose dirt from the surprisingly clean motherboard. The metal shields snapped back onto the pegs that they were previously secured under even after I had cut them, so I did not need to do anything to repair the missing plastic. The shielding was still securely held in place and it even held up to being shaken. After cleaning: The computer still has some minor dirty areas which I'll need to clean up later, but it looks much better than it did before. I was able to follow a similar process to clean the external floppy drive with the obvious addition of cleaning and relubricating the drive mechanism. Next up are the mouse, keyboard, and monitor!
  6. davidg5678

    davidg5678's Computer Finds

    I came across this listing on letgo a few days ago a knew I had found a deal worth looking at. The seller was offering an Apple IIgs, a Macintosh SE, and a Macintosh Classic for all of $52. After a few hours on the road, I have returned with three computers to work on along with a pile of documentation, software, and accessories. I am particularly excited about the Apple IIgs, as I have always wanted to use an Apple II, but have never seen one for sale before anywhere near my area. The Classic has what looks to be some battery leakage residue on the rear case, so I'm not sure about whether or not it will be salvageable. --I'll have to open it up and see what happened... All of the computers are dirty and in need of a cleaning, but they appear to be in good enough shape otherwise. I was able to verify that luckily, the battery did has not yet leaked inside of the IIgs. Now to fix and sort all of the computers!!!
  7. davidg5678

    3D-Printed Objects

    Would it be possible to design 3D printed plastic CRT Adjustment Tools for use inside Macintosh CRTs? It is getting harder to find these toolkits online, and they just seem to be specially shaped pieces of plastic. Is there anything special about the tools, or would normal PLA plastic be safe to stick into an Analog Board?
  8. davidg5678

    Extended Keyboard II troubleshooting

    While doing research about ADB to fix my SE/30, I found a very useful ADB keyboard troubleshooting section in the book "Troubleshooting your Macintosh" by Douglass High. It is available on vintageapple.org. I would recommend trying all of the troubleshooting steps in the ADB chapter. (Be sure to verify the circuit on the SE/30 board itself.) Inside the ADB port, only a single wire is transferring data from both the keyboard and mouse, so the keyboard should work when the mouse does. (At least as far as I can tell from the cryptic "Inside Macintosh" books.) Are you able to use the mouse when it is daisy-chained through the keyboard? Do the caps-lock key and LED work? It is possible one of the ICs on the keyboard is not working correctly. Hopefully, the chips themselves are functional and the problem lies in how they are connected somewhere else in the circuit. Are you able to post some photos of the circuit boards inside the keyboard? Good luck!
  9. From the online searching I have been doing, it seems that most computers with broken ADB have completely nonfunctional ADB and not the partially functioning ports I have. However, I found this forum thread from a number of years ago about a somewhat similar issue: I took a look at the book referenced in the forum thread ("Troubleshooting your Macintosh") and it recommended checking the RF Choke filter and Pico Fuse on the board for continuity. I was able to confirm that they were working normally on my logic board using my multimeter. I also measured 4.8v and a solid ground connection from the ports. After reading the section on how ADB works in Apple's "Guide to Macintosh Family Hardware", it seems as if the issue I have should not be happening. From the diagram below, it looks like both the mouse and keyboard are relying on the same chips to work on an ADB level and that their functionality should be interconnected. Maybe something further down the line is not working correctly. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. Thanks!
  10. davidg5678

    Reinstall System 7 from scratch

    Just in case you have not already checked --Have you verified that the speaker was plugged in after the board was reinstalled? Usually, getting the motherboard recapped (like you already did) fixes this sort of issue, although it is certainly possible something is still damaged in the circuitry.
  11. I have tried using several different working mice, but the cursor will not move. Clicking and typing still work normally though.
  12. davidg5678

    SCSI2SD - starting over

    Your Mac II should be able to work with partitions that are slightly less than 2GB in size. In order to try reconfiguring everything, I would first recommend reformatting the SD Card completely with Disk Utility. When you set up your card again, you will need to create a partition on it small enough not to confuse your Mac II. If you have a modern Mac or Linux computer, I have had success following this guide: http://www.codesrc.com/mediawiki/index.php/HFSFromScratch. The guide explains how to create a disk image with all of the necessary drivers on your modern computer and then copy it onto your SD card. As you already have a way to boot from floppy disks, you could ignore the sections about copying an emulated image onto the SD card, and just create a blank disk image that you can install OS7 onto later. The 3686496 sectors mentioned as an example roughly translate to a 1.9GB file which would work well with a Mac II. I am happy to try to explain the guide in more detail if you need help.
  13. davidg5678

    SE FDHD Restoration

    Excellent work! Can you elaborate on how you found the non-conductive VIA underneath the SCC chip? On one of my broken SE/30 boards, many vias have the same sunken look and corroded color. Did you probe each VIA with a multimeter to find the broken connection? How were you able to drill through the board without damaging it? Good luck on your SE/30 Resurrection!
  14. I have swapped the UL11 IC with a working part from another board, but the mouse cursor still does not move. Are there other parts involved in the ADB circuit that I could check?
  15. To summarize the brick wall of text I wrote above, I am trying to repair a recapped SE/30 motherboard which has partially functional ADB. I am able to use a keyboard and click the mouse, but I cannot move the mouse cursor. I have tried to troubleshoot this using different mice and ADB ports, but I can't get the cursor to budge. Should I try to swap the UL11 ADB IC as my next troubleshooting step, or should I do something else? The pads for C8, C9, and C10 were all broken, so I ran patch wires from the capacitors to the locations described in the diagram above. I am not sure whether or not I bypassed resistors as referred to in the bottom left corner of the chart. Can anyone verify this? I have confirmed using another motherboard that C1's positive side is connected to Pin 12 of J12 and that its negative side is connected to ground. This is the opposite of the diagram above, so I think it should be a non-issue on the board I'm fixing. If you have any ideas about how to fix this computer, please let me know. Thanks!