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Jon183

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About Jon183

  • Birthday 04/26/98

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Adelaide, Australia

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  • OCCUPATION
    IT Student

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  1. Also, I wouldnt snip any wires until you are 100% sure it will fit, just in case you have to send it back.
  2. I got the LG Philips panel, does this hitachi panel have the same specs and connector as the one I have? Should be able to check online.
  3. Probably on Sunday or Monday ill look into it, I really need to look into circuit diagrams again, didn't pay much attention in class.
  4. While I did swab under the caps, I didn't clean it properly, I shall look around the area and report my findings when I resume working on it.
  5. My IIci supply does the same thing, even with all the new caps (expect for the two largest ones, they were too expensive). It makes the MB light blink twice and nothing more. Should I follow this guide? http://www.shobaffum.com/iici/trickle.pdf Logic board fully recapped, cache card not installed or recapped until my chisel tip for SM soldering arrives.
  6. Top screws SE30.. rounded out?

    If you haven't already opened it yet, best not to open it on your bed like I did or anywhere else where you don't want a mess, dead bugs all over possibly.
  7. Top screws SE30.. rounded out?

    My classic II doesnt have spiders but has bits of foam everywhere inside.
  8. I believe the case uses regular philips screws but you will need a set of hex drivers too, cant remember what sizes. Remove all those rubber bits in the picture, remove the screws under them, I used a very small flat head screwdriver to pry out the rubber protectors but im not sure it was the best idea. Make sure the rubber bits are all stored in a container right after removing, I lost 2 of the top rubber bits. I used a plastic prying tool to go all the way around the lid except for the large hinge at the bottom and then I removed the plastic cover. I remember there were screws holding the screen in and other screws for the screen bracket. Some dont need to be removed, cant remember which. The connector for the backlight unfortunately doesn't unplug by removing just the LCD enclosure in the lombard, it appears that the connector runs through the screen into the logic board chassis in mine. I snipped both the new LCD backlight wires and old ones, there were two connectors, a thicker one and thinner one in both old and new wires, i connected thickest to thickest and both thinner ones and it worked, absolutely made sure both wires were insulated properly with electrical tape but should of used shrink wrap too. Be careful if you follow what I said, I dont know if its the best idea, proper replacement documentation may exist somewhere, you may be able to connect the new backlight wire to the correct socket without cutting both ends and soldering old and new together, im sure I voided my LCD warranty with what I did.
  9. iBook G4 to G3 Clamshell Mod

    I was wondering the same thing, I believe the voltage and amp ratings are the same but I just bought a replacement charger because I didn't want to somewhat mess with the appearance of a working G4 charger.
  10. Top screws SE30.. rounded out?

    My first 68k mac, the SE superdrive had many dead spiders inside as well, I hosed down both case pieces.
  11. $50 Mid 2010 Macbook

    Got rid of it to fund my whopping car repair bill, don't even know how much it is yet, but I know its going to be pretty big.
  12. LC TDK PSU issues

    Recapped it, working now, I will test it with a multimeter after I recap my iici logic board.
  13. Good luck, recapped a TDK LC PSU just then, it was 100% lifeless before, now it works fine. When I recap my IIci, hopefully it will work again, it was for the 5 seconds I first powered it on.
  14. Its been a while. I uploaded the last photo on oct 11 but I had the monitor in use since the 5th probably. Here it is now, still reliable with the $14AUD 24v 4a cheap charger from China.
  15. easy enough to do without any documentation, did it last night
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