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About Byrd

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    Melbourne, Australia

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  1. Hi, Sorry I've not been close by my ANS 500/700 of late to check this, @AlpineRaven I also need to check it for you Will do so on weekend. It's like dragging the fridge out of it's cavity and I don't want to go there too often
  2. I've handled about ~ 10 eMates over the years, and I'm yet to find one with a faulty screen hinge/ribbon nor have I been particularly concerned to crack open the entire thing to check it out. I'd suggest that if handled roughly or in well used condition (perhaps ex-school), and the screen hinge feels slack, go for disassembly. However if your eMates are in good condition with stiff hinges, just opening and closing the lid gently will be all that you need to do - the risk of disassembling the whole thing potentially damaging casing along the way isn't worth it.
  3. Byrd

    TAM questions - How is it as a stereo?

    The TAM sounds great in a small room, the satellite speakers are directional so best if you position it in front of you, not to a corner or side of the room. Also check the satellites aren't degraded, and ensure there is no speaker buzz in whatever unit you buy. It does a particularly good job with medium and low but bass is a little muddy. The FM radio is quite good too, you can get nice compact antennas that plug directly into the back. TV-in quality is pretty crap. A G3 accelerator will allow you to use the built-in iTunes visualiser at non-slide show speeds, also look out for third party visualisers such as GForce. I'm using the SCSI2SD V 5.5 in my TAM with a 128GB microSD card that I copy my entire collection to every now and then from my Mac Pro.
  4. How does the motherboard itself look? Is it covered in crap as well. The ANS motherboard is based off the PowerMac 9500, I'd be looking at PSU pinouts for this machine and considering an ATX conversion inside the existing casing you have.
  5. Look at your burnt CD first; try another brand or burning it at a slower speed (2 - 4X) to see if your internal 1400 CD-ROM likes it more. If you keep getting an error, you can boot off a PCMCIA CF adapter with an OS installed. The stock HD in a 1400 is noisy, terribly slow and ripe for replacement.
  6. Byrd

    Hard drives

    Yes, a straight swap - 2.5" SCSI, just make sure the drive isn't too tall to fit the 210's casing.
  7. Downclock the card using ATIaccelerator II - it’s likely your generic card can’t run at the Mac ROM’s higher core/mem speeds
  8. Wouldn't the video adapter mirror what's on the CRT, ie. original CC 512 x 384 unless some sort of fancier PDS solution? What you're describing would be quite difficult noting the 640 x 480 hack requires cutting of traces, removal or resistors and calibration of the CRT image. I've had two CCs (a Mystic and Takky) used often with the original 67Hz mod with no concerns, the internal display handles this resolution exceedingly well and is what the original CC should have shipped with, IMO.
  9. Calibration of the monitor? Try another video cable or LCD, make sure you let it auto adjust.
  10. Byrd

    (Failed) Conquest

    Argh - sorry to hear. Good chance it goes to the bin, imagine the thief's face when they pull the "old computer" out of the box ...
  11. Byrd

    ROMBUS - 64 MB flash interface for Mac Plus

    I'm interested - you'd significantly broaden your market if it worked in a 128K, 512K ... or SE?
  12. Byrd

    Takky logic board swap

    Hi Crutch, You might see $3000 Takkys on eBay, but no-one is buying them A "Takky" modified Colour Classic is a hack that requires a decent amount of modification to not just the analogue board, but also the plastic casing and complete rewire of the harness (usually yanked from a donor 6400/6500 Mac). There are very neat hacks and very rough hacks out there, with use of later 5x00 and 6x00 boards requiring an additional voltage mod to get things like PCI cards running and also PSU upgrades to power everything along. If you buy something sight unseen there is good chance it'll be in the rough, dodgy category. These days chopping up a perfectly good Colour Classic is probably going to devalue it, as most people don't want fast PPC support. So you might be best finding a rough, non-working Colour Classic and same in a bad 6500 and learning how to do it yourself properly, if keen. JB
  13. Byrd

    Powerbook 180c chime, then death chime

    Ah crap, Kai Sounds like some dodgy DIY work carried out on that poor 180c. No wonder you didn't have a display! Can you post a pic of the cable and missing board? It should be a universal part to all colour 1x0 PowerBooks. Going back, is your power adapter the 7.5A/1A rated unit - that's for Powerbook 100s (and I think Mac Portable), you need the higher rated amperage units to successfully power up later more power hungry 1x0 models.
  14. Yes, the Twin Turbo should be a beast for 2D acceleration, I'd be reinstalling the OS with Apple provided drivers. The Mac Edition Radeon 9200 is the fastest PCI non-OS X card you can get, however hard to find these days. A Radeon 7000 Mac Edition is much the same for less. I'd say the main gotcha here is that there are a multitude of x86 Radeon 9200 cores and memory types (9100/9200/9250 "SE" 64/128bit memory etc), so unless you can find one that looks close to the Mac Edition 9200 a hardware mod would be difficult to carry out.
  15. Byrd

    Powerbook 180c chime, then death chime

    Welcome Kai! The "sandwich" of the motherboard, CPU daughterboard and memory modules in PowerBook 1x0 can be very prone to bad connections and can often cause errors in a pristine unit, and especially in one that has visible damage. Another common failure point is a fuse near the DC jack that can be jumpered with a wire; but if that's gone it won't start up at all. Also if you're using an Apple 7.5V power adapter, the caps on these can go resulting in a "weak" incomplete startup such as this. I'd pull the HD, third-party RAM, clean the contacts with electronic solvent spray, and lastly reseat the CPU paying attention to the shims on the casing that it's securely aligned. Does the HD spin up, and if it does does the 180c attempt to start up off it? Check your power brick; ensure it outputs the right voltage, under load. JB