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About CharlesT

  • Birthday 07/17/1954

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    Seattle area

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  1. CharlesT

    Pismo LCD swap

    Have a look at my efforts in that direction. Might help in your search, although it's been a couple years.
  2. CharlesT

    AppleColor monitor output 'squashed'

    I just recently fixed one of these, different symptoms than yours. I replaced all the electrolytics on both the main board and neck board. Did not fix the problem. Problem turned out to be bad solder joints on the flyback. Redid all those and it was mostly working. The other problem turned out to be dirty contacts on the adjustment pots. Gave those some vigorous back and forth action and it came right in. Looks great with the new caps as well. The main board on that monitor is prone to solder joint issues.
  3. CharlesT

    Bridge Mac

    Totally agree with Compgeke. I'm using a 7600 for exactly that purpose. It ties into the ethernet network and using the serial ports and Apple's internet bridge s/w ties serial appletalk to that network. Plus you have both SCSI ports and can put in an IDE card for IDE drives. Plus it's easy to add a G3 card and also run os 9.2.2 with a little help. All het beste
  4. CharlesT

    MacCon IIsi SE/30 Not Working. Any Ideas?

    This sounds very similar to a problem I had with an LC575 and both comm slot and pds ethernet cards. The wouldn't be recognized by the Faralon software and caused booting problems. Problem turned out to be the power supply going weak. Re-capped that and everything works. The weak supply took longer than it should have to come within spec with the added load preventing the cards from being properly initialized during the power up process. If you haven't yet re-capped your power supply, could be the problem.
  5. Just wanted to close this off. I managed to find a replacement cable for the LG panel, as well as a "new" correct LG Phillips panel, both right here in the US, in Texas. Installed both and that Pismo is bright eyed and bushy tailed again. I now feel like I can replace a Pismo panel in probably 15 minutes or less, pretty simple, no hidden tricky parts. Cable was $12 and included a set of hinges, the panel was $36. Not too bad.
  6. CharlesT

    restoring plastics on a Tangerine ibook?

    I used the WD-40 on a Pismo and it worked a treat! Smells for a day or two but really perks it up nicely.
  7. CharlesT

    iBook G4 - Mac OS 9 "Universal" - 256 colors

    I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think the universal install for unsupported Macs necessarily enables 100% of the functionality on any of the machines it will boot on. Some examples being things like Bluetooth which there are no OS9 drivers for. This may well be one of them. Disabling your graphics card extensions will definitely NOT help, make sure you re-enable the extensions for the flavor of graphics card in your machine. You may also want to post the question on the Mac OS9 Lives forum, where they have a topic devoted specifically to running on unsupported machines. Hey, being stuck in millions of colors is better than being stuck in 256 colors for most use cases.
  8. CharlesT

    GHz TiBook not seeing battery?

    I believe I've come to the root of the problem on this guy. It was really two problems, one of which I was able to correct, the other... The corrected problem was with the DC In board, actually the spring contact within the circular connector. I rooted around in there with a set of tweezers and jiggered the contact enough so the chargers are properly identified. But, didn't fix the main battery problem. Sooo, spent the better part of the afternoon taking the machine apart and got the logic board out. i happened to notice what seemed like a burn mark on the plastic connector for the CCFL power line, then went looking for what could have generated the heat on the logic board directly above it. And..., found it, an 8 pin part with it's top half burned off and lot's of signs of just a little too much heat. The part is very near where the connector from the DC In board is mounted. I don't have a camera for my microscope or I'd put that in here. So, now have to figure out what next. The part number is burned off the part, but I could probably get it off my 867, which would require a complete disassembly of that guy, which I'm reluctant to do. Plus I'm not setup for surface mount soldering, although an 8 pin part might not be a bad start. I got this thing along with a 1.5GHz 12" powerbook for $50 for both. The 12" is in great shape and runs nicely, so I could argue with myself I got the TI for free, but it's the TI that I wanted. I've already ordered a new top case for it, but at this point not sure I want to put much more into it. Anyone know where I can get a new logic board for a reasonable price?
  9. CharlesT

    GHz TiBook not seeing battery?

    I've cleaned the contacts using an emory stick on the blades followed by lots of contact cleaner. No change in behavior, unfortunately. But, I did notice that the machine sees both a 45 watt and 65 watt charger as 45 watts. I know it won't charge when using a 45 watt charger, so that explains the not charging part, although I'm not sure how that relates to not running off battery, since it should do that even without a charger. But, on the hunch that there's really only one problem at the root of this, I'm suspecting the problem is with the DC In board. Will need to take a closer look at that.
  10. CharlesT

    GHz TiBook not seeing battery?

    Will do that this afternoon. Checked it out under the microscope and it looked OK...
  11. I just bought a 1GHz titanium, which, although cosmetically challenged, seems to function pretty well. With one exception, of course. It absolutely refuses to run off battery power. I have a working 500MHz VGA and an 867 tibook, so have a couple of batteries to play with. It seems like it can intermittently sense that a battery is there (runs at 667 MHz on just wall power and switches to 1GHz with a battery installed), but it refuses to run for even a millisecond if I pull the plug with a fully charged battery that keeps the 867 going for over 2 hours. Also, running System Info on it the battery portion sometimes reports the battery with all zeroes, other times with the same cycle count, etc, as when the battery is in the other machine. So that part is flaky, but it never pulls any current from the battery to run on. I know I can just start swapping parts with the 867 but seeing as that one is in great condition, thought I'd ask the question before going down that route. Has anyone experienced this kind of behavior before? By the way, I did the PMU/PRAM reset a couple of times, but that had no effect. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
  12. Thanks Alpine. The Pismo was free to me (although it's no longer as free as it was). I did a quick look for another cable. Found one for an LG panel at $80 (ouch!) which would still be too short for the Hitachi panel, but found more for the Samsung panel that was apparently also used in these things. One of these is available for $26. Someone mentioned the Samsung panel elsewhere, does anyone know the part number for those? I wonder if those would be more available, might make more sense than beating this dead horse...
  13. And the verdict on Plan B is.... Not so good. Removing the second wrap around the hinge leaves the flex cable critically unsupported and resulted in a rip in the edge of it, breaking enough connections to, well, put paid to the experiment. Now I need a new data cable and a Plan C. Live and learn.
  14. You can, but it would be better to partition the hard drive first and dedicate each to it's own OS.
  15. Well...., I'm working on a plan B. Perhaps all is not lost. I MAY be able to make it work, at least for light usage. Does that flex cable really need two wraps around the hinge bracket? I suspect it does for long term use, but we'll shortly see if it will do with one wrap if I don't ask too much of it. Electrically the panel works fine and is in fact matte, I was thrown by the protective plastic cover. If this works mechanically perhaps we'll have an alternative to the LG available as long as one is willing to try a little hackery.