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AwkwardPotato

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  1. AwkwardPotato

    Macintosh Classic II Restoration

    Personally I'd just use a soft brush to clean the dust off the high-voltage parts (I don't feel too comfortable getting water, etc. near them). Really look forward to seeing your progress on this Mac; your previous restoration threads have been really cool to watch!
  2. AwkwardPotato

    Help revive an Original Macintosh Prototype

    "X2" basically is the voltage rating, so you can just look up "x2 capacitor," choose "Safety Capacitors," and then pick the options "Radial" and "Safety Film Capacitors." Pick a part with the same capacitance (measured in F, farads) as the damaged one (should be written somewhere on the cap), and make sure to get one with leads spaced roughly the same width as the one in the Plus. I'd also check the datasheet for the part you find just to make sure it is an X2-rated part.
  3. AwkwardPotato

    Help revive an Original Macintosh Prototype

    You can probably remove the filter cap for testing, but definitely plan on replacing it. Replacements for these can be found on mouser.com or other electronics distributors. One thing to keep in mind: there are two different kinds of line filter caps in Compact Macs: X2 and Y2, and you need to replace like for like; e.g. can't replace an X2 with a Y2. They should be marked on the top/side with what type they are. Yes, definitely discharge the CRT before doing any work on the analog board.
  4. AwkwardPotato

    Help revive an Original Macintosh Prototype

    For starters, resoldering the joints on the flyback transformer and all of the connectors might help.
  5. AwkwardPotato

    Help revive an Original Macintosh Prototype

    C33, C37, and C38 all appear to be RIFA line filter capacitors, and those don't affect the operation of the computer when they fail.
  6. AwkwardPotato

    ABD Keyboard and Mouse Options?

    Found it here. Admittedly being a wiki it could definitely be wrong, although I've always found this one to be pretty accurate (bit of a keyboard enthusiast myself). Do you have a serial number/date of manufacture for your keyboard? Given the madness that was usually going on at Apple around that time, I wouldn't be too surprised if they did in fact release the AKII before 1990
  7. AwkwardPotato

    ABD Keyboard and Mouse Options?

    A bit of googling about reveals that the original Apple Keyboard/Extended Keyboard (M0115/0116) were released in 1987 to match the Mac II and SE, and the Keyboard II was released in 1990 to match the LC.
  8. AwkwardPotato

    LCII crapped the bed

    I can confirm the EGRET causing issues too; on the LC series they usually sit in a nest of caps and all the leads get corroded. I've been able to get an LC II to go from a black screen to a '?' floppy screen by reflowing the leads before.
  9. AwkwardPotato

    Macintosh Color Classic No Sound After Recap

    It could be the TDA7052A itself that's faulty.
  10. AwkwardPotato

    Macintosh IICX No Video After Recap

    Sometimes SEs and SE/30s (with which the IIcx is closely related) have the issue you describe when the Bourns filters go bad. The IIcx doesn't seem to have the same kind of filter found in the SE/30, although it does have one at RP13 right next to the external floppy port. Maybe that part is causing issues?
  11. AwkwardPotato

    Macintosh IICX No Video After Recap

    That plastic bar isn't stock. It's hard to tell, but it seems that the tabs for some of the SIMM slots have been snapped off, so I'd guess the bar is there to hold the SIMMs in place (and maybe the RAM not being seated correctly because of this is part of the problem).
  12. AwkwardPotato

    Macintosh IICX No Video After Recap

    Check for continuity between C2 and R3, and between R3 and the internal speaker jack. Run patch wires between them if there isn't continuity to fix the sound issue. As for the chimes of death, a good starting point would be to make sure your RAM is good, if possible.
  13. I think the 6360 and 6400 are also Alchemy-based.
  14. AwkwardPotato

    Macintosh Color Classic No Sound After Recap

    Following the traces is probably your best bet since there isn't an analog board schematic to show what's connected where. TDA7052A could possibly be at fault too, it's hard to tell for sure. Just wondering, what are the voltages at pins 1 and 4 of the TDA7052A (not sure what exactly they're supposed to be but it may help)? Also, can you upload a picture of the top and bottom sides of the board around where the TDA7052A is so we can see if anything is obviously damaged?
  15. AwkwardPotato

    Macintosh IICX No Video After Recap

    Not sure about this, but wouldn't you at least get a chime of some sort regardless of if the NuBus controller is good? Are all the voltages from the power supply good?
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