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  1. bhtooefr

    FUN CHALLENGE: 2006 iMac in 2019

    And, of course, the challenge explicitly stated you could run whatever OS you wanted. So, running an iMac5,2 with Windows 10 or Linux on it is basically the same experience as running a brand new $200 HP Stream 14 with Windows 10 or Linux on it, as far as the challenge is concerned, just physically bigger.
  2. bhtooefr

    FUN CHALLENGE: 2006 iMac in 2019

    Your reference machine has identical CPU performance to a brand new laptop. (I took the liberty of using a Mac Mini for this, because nobody bothered benchmarking a Late 2006 iMac with that CPU.) Not exactly an exciting challenge.
  3. bhtooefr

    What is the best Apple II to buy?

    As I understand, the problem with ROM 3 is PCB delamination in the internal layers. I've had terrible luck with ROM 3 boards, I think I've been through three? And, I mean, one didn't even recognize cards at all...
  4. bhtooefr

    What is the best Apple II to buy?

    Turns out, I didn't realize that this thing was available for ROM 3 IIGSes (now if ROM 3s were reliable - they're not, which is why my IIGS has a ROM 01 board): http://tulip-house.ddo.jp/DIGITAL/gsdvi/index.html $57 shipped from here: http://tulip-house.ddo.jp/DIGITAL/english.html- and based on my experience, he ships fast.
  5. bhtooefr

    What is the best Apple II to buy?

    There's strong arguments for the //c, or using the IIGS as a //e, rather than going for a //e, because everything you need to get started is (hypothetically) included. The //c works very, very well as an 8-bit Apple II - mass storage isn't so easy, but everything else is already in there, it works well on composite monitors (that's what the Apple II was designed for, actually), and it's basically a smaller //e. (And, you can use the UNISDISK or the Floppy Emu to get mass storage.) The IIGS isn't as good on composite, but otherwise, it's an even better 8-bit Apple II than the //c, at least on paper. Everything's there, even AppleTalk (which is impossible on a //c and absurdly expensive on a //e), you can expand it if you want (including things like ethernet and mass storage on a card (faster than on SmartPort)), it's faster. The IIGS as a IIGS is a terrible, terrible machine, though. I'll admit that I've probably dropped $800-1000 into my IIGS, although some of that was into replacement motherboards after motherboard failures... and what I have is a really, really bad Mac with a blurry CRT (thank you AppleColor RGB quality). You really, really need a good 15 kHz RGB solution, and the AppleColor RGB is hard to find in good condition, as the tubes age. The scalers out there aren't great for the IIGS application, the SecondSight video card is really flaky and absurdly expensive, and there's not much in the way of better options than CRTs. (You might be able to hack a CRT TV to take RGB input, though, the on-screen displays on later ones tend to be RGB, so if you interface to the OSD input...) You might, however, get lucky with a color space converter from RGB to YPbPr and a TV that takes component input.
  6. bhtooefr

    Project: Apple IIc video/boot problem

    If you're getting no disk drive spin, no beep, the problem isn't in the character generation circuit. Your CPU most likely isn't starting up, so suspect a failed keyboard (holding Ctrl-Reset, or having the keyboard unplugged, can cause those symptoms IIRC), failed CPU, failed ROM, or failed first bank of RAM (IIRC in that order). Could also be the IOU or MMU, but that's getting lower in likelihood IIRC.
  7. bhtooefr

    RGB monitor

    And, actually, EGA timings aren't actually 24 kHz, they're 21.85 kHz. (Oh, and for the sake of completeness, while I've been saying "15 kHz" for CGA h-sync, it's really 15.734 kHz.) Now, one of those cheap CGA/EGA/YUV to VGA boards will get a CGA (or 320x200/640x200 EGA signal, but not 640x350 or EGA text mode - the actual EGA scanrate isn't within the allowable range for these boards) signal up on a VGA monitor, but only with 8 colors. You could also build a color decoder circuit to convert the TTL colors to analog, and that would get you the full 64 color palette.
  8. bhtooefr

    RGB monitor

    So those won't do what the OP wants either. In the arcade world, "CGA" is what people use to refer to 15 kHz h-sync, 60 Hz v-sync (TV timings) analog RGB, and "EGA" is what people use to refer to 24 kHz h-sync. Those converters sample the 15 kHz or 24 kHz analog RGB signal, and output a VGA signal. They don't support actual CGA or actual EGA's digital color standard.
  9. bhtooefr

    RGB monitor

    For an EGA card, you really need a true EGA monitor, which has digital RGB with two intensity bits. That monitor is analog RGB, and won't support the timings an EGA monitor needs (15 and 24 kHz h-sync, 60 Hz v-sync) - it's 35 kHz h-sync, 66.7 Hz V-sync.
  10. bhtooefr

    Woo! TechStep!

    http://bhtooefr.ath.cx/images/techstep.jpg lololololololololol you should get a personal mainframe, that REALLY gets the chicks all moist