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  1. lithium batteries - longevity of them

    I don't think I have ever seen a Pismo battery "bulge" from age/elements like I have the "flat" cells in more modern powerbooks/macbooks. The round cell design tends to be more reliable, historically, but holds less power storage/in^3, which is why macs went away from the format years later. I charge up and discharge my pismo batteries 2-3 times a year, but, never run them completely empty.
  2. I've had VERY poor results with "new" 4/3 cells lasting any length of time. Tenergy are craptastic. Yeah, AA cells are "less" but easier to find/source and the smaller size gives you some extra room to work with.
  3. My NOS Pismo batteries tend to last about a month on their own, but, need to be plugged in the night before use. I have a pair of NOS 5300 packs. One holds a charge for a week (but runs for 4 hours under normal use) and is then useless. The other lasts 20min and then is "dead". both have excellent connectors/conductor pads. The one that is near-death is going to get "chopped" and I will finish putting in new Enloop Pro cells (AA - 2500mAH). Factory cells were 2000mAH. I did recell a NiMH battery for my old toshiba Satelite 133 pentium. I had to come up with a special adapter for holding the welding tool (10gage how wire that was 3mm apart at the tips) and used a 12v car battery with a car soleniod. Scary as hell the first time I tested the setup, but, having practiced on some test strips and dead AA cells, I got the hang of it. I used cheaper Engergizer 2300mAH AA cells as they were 1/2 the cost of the Enloop Pro but still are better than the factory 2000mAH cells. [NOTE: Both the Enloop and 2300mAH energizer cells are "leak proof" designs] I pre-charge all cells and run them down to ~10% using a flashlight and then charge them overnight before final installation. I found that Loctite 2 part epoxy with a dab of Testors olive drab paint (kid makes models) got the color just about perfect. The Loctite Epoxy "Plastic" Bonder is what I used and doesn't lend itself to cracking as bad. It is Nylon safe!
  4. Using Ram Doubler - Speed Doubler, Ram upgrade.

    I've had great success with SpeedDoubler on some stuff in the past. I've never really used RamDoubler. SpeedDoubler works excellent on my 5300, and even though it has 56MB of RAM, the use of disk cache with the mSATA setup makes it a very nice notebook. Word 6 runs like 2x faster during spell check. Never bothered with my Pismo's since they have 1GB. NOTE: After upgrading the CPU to a 500MHz G4, the Pismos saw little/if-any bennefit to speed doubler. I also run 9.2.2 on them and have never looked bak.
  5. The other option would be to use a "donor" 16MB card and grab the chips and resistors/capacitors from it. I've heard of this being done with Toshiba notebook RAM modules in the late 90s.
  6. PowerBook 1400c and mSATA SSD

    I have started to refer to all those metal framed mSATA adapters as "Red Bastards" or "Red Headed Stepchild". I've not gotten ANY of them to work in my 5300, Pismo, or even older PATA based notebooks. This is the one and only mode that I have had ANY success with, and it works 100% of the time with Toshiba drives. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MSATA-Mini-PCI-E-SATA-SSD-To-2-5-Inch-IDE-Laptop-HDD-Enclosure-Disk-Case-White/361991673227 It uses the JM20330 chipset, which tends to run just a little bit warm... wish they could not the voltage down to 4.5VDC instead of 5VDC as the mSATA is really only for 3.3VDC I don't get any issues with bootup or restarts from cold. My G3/G4 Pismo books each have one of these in them with a 128GB (prtitioned 8GB OS9 and the rest for OSX 10.4) Toshiba mSATA drive. My 5300cs has one with a 32GB mSATA (partitioned in MacOS 8.1 2GB/8GB/8Gb/8GB).
  7. NOS Batteries

    Depends. Pismo and older books could take new(er) cells just fine as there were no "counters" on the logic board. I did "recell" a battery for my PB 5300ce (contacts were bad, so, the job was more of a "proof of concept").
  8. 3D-Printed Objects

    What I would really love is a 3D printed face plate for more modern IDE slot loading DVD drives (i.e. pre-SATA Macbook Pro) for the Lombard/Pismo. That would be my Holy Grail right now. I'm still researching how to make a 3D printed battery for NiMH AA cells to work in my 5300cs and cse. I tested a setup using 2500mah enloop cells and they outlast the remaining working battery pack I have by 2:1 (and they are leak proof and don't drain dead in a week on the shelf)
  9. 3D-Printed Objects

    Seeing this on the 9500 *almost* makes me regret dumping mine on Fleabay a few years back. 1.5GB of RAM and SCSI2IDE bridge adapter for both CD and hard drive made this a very useable machine until 10.4 came out. (I could never get it stable with the hacks... and 10.4 was required by Office 2008. Even though Office 2004 was what I used for work)
  10. You have to use VL Panasonic cells which are rechagable. For the Pismo, you can get by with just 2 of them in series with a center tap and use the thicker higher capacity cells. I used very thin brass sheet and held it together with conductive adhesive like you buy at the auto parts store for fixing read window defoggers. I then covered it all with spray on plastic dip from the hardware store. Each cell is like $8-$12 depending on the capacity. So a full replacement unit is $32.
  11. PATA SSD vs PATA adapter with mSATA SSD

    I had bad luck with the idea ssd devices and have standardized on Toshiba mSATA with jmicron chipset adapters. Just wish they would drop the voltage into the mSATA to 4.5vdc instead of full 5vdc. It would run a bit cooler. I drilled several 1/4" holes into my last adapter case before putting it in my buddy's Pismo. He has 128gb with 4 partitions. He also reballed his board with a 500Mhz G4.
  12. I used to take short lengths of Trylene fishing line then swab 2-part clear epoxy (Elmers brand) over it carfully and I got moving parts like trays and such to function again.
  13. Wallstreet PDQ Doesn't Recognize Hard Disk

    The black ones from China for $7 work fine. I did have one die on me, but, it might have been a bad connection that finally went after rough handling. JM20330 is what you want. Just wish there was an easy way to drop/lower the voltage to 4.2 VDC into the mSATA instead of the 5VDC... tends to run a bit warm.
  14. All, What type of RS-232 interface do I need to have on my KX-P2123 to print from a powerbook 5300? There are 2 interface types I can get for my Panasonic printer. Current loop and non-current loop interface boards. Does the Mac require a "current" on the RS-232 for printing?
  15. IIc vs IIc+

    FYI: It is possible to upgrade the RAM in the IIc (4000 and 4100) along with a clock board from A2heaven. I have one in my IIc (4000) and it works fine. I did have to upgrade my ROM to something newer than "0" for it to work correctly, but that was a very minor hack. (some solder glue on one circuit and removing a solder joint on another) Just wish I could find a zipchip or rocket chip for my IIc... I don't believe there is an "easy" way to overclock the IIc w/o it. (unlike the IIc+) Ironically, my IIc green monitor died just last week and I am already in the process of 3D printing a IIc monitor stand case for a 12" LCD panel and VGA adapter.