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just.in.time

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  1. just.in.time

    Finally got a DiiMOCache!

    Welcome to the accelerated SE/30 club i have a 40mhz socketed powercache, so not as fast or as much cache as the Diimo. But it is plenty fast enough in Mac OS 8.1 with a IIsi ROM swap. You should give it a go! now I just need to find an Xceed card to use with my grayscale harness.
  2. just.in.time

    PowerBook 2400c with goodies

    That clear keyboard is awesome!!!
  3. just.in.time

    PowerBook 2400c with goodies

    Sounds like an amazing find! Good work. Can you post photos of that keyboard?
  4. just.in.time

    CURRENT most reliable Powerbook?

    I had a 540 (not the 540c) suffer the tunneling effect. I thing every grayscale active matrix display was affected if going active matrix I’d shoot for color.
  5. just.in.time

    CURRENT most reliable Powerbook?

    A little late but I’m going to add my two cents. Whatever 68k PowerBook you do get, open the display only once! Get it to a comfortable viewing angle and never close it again. The opening/closing cycles on the old hinges and brittle plastic is what generally destroys these things. I keep all my PowerBooks and Clamshell iBook open on a couple display shelves I bought from IKEA. If you buy one that looks to be in decent shape it should survive one opening. With any of these, make sure they are in working order before buying and that there aren’t any battery leakage/corrosion issues. As for specific machine to buy, I’d say the 180c, 540c, or 190cs. To my knowledge the tunneling issue doesn’t really happen on color active matrix panels or any of the passive matrix panels. The 180c should be decently reliable and the pinnacle of the original PowerBook design. 68030, FPU, and a RAM ceiling of (I believe) 12mb. In theory this machine should be great on 7.5.5. But I’ve never owned one For a machine I do own, the 540c. Hands down one of the most beautiful displays of the era... I’d argue even more pop in 2019 than the panel of my 5300ce (which is in great shape as well). Plus it has stereo speakers, Ethernet, a high enough RAM ceiling to run OS 8.1 confidently, and the first trackpad. The weakest point (remember, you bought one with good plastics and ONLY opened it once and never closed it again) will probably be the power supply. I hear they are a PITA to open, but are fixable. Finally, the 190cs. Honestly, it’s reliability will be primarily because it was the newest 68k PowerBook available. It has color, but only passive matrix. Will definitely appear washed out and slow to refresh compared to the 540c (and probably even the 180c’s panel). BUT it does have onboard PC Card slots. No nead for expensive cages (looking at you 5xx series). It’s weakest point will probably be the DC jack (shared with the 5300). However, it seems to be an easy fix of just resoldering it down. I had to do it for my 5300cs way back in the day and now I need to do it for a 5300ce I’m restoring.
  6. just.in.time

    PowerBook 5300ce

    @bibilit Ah okay, thank you for that clarification. Was your "AA" label in the battery bay as well?
  7. just.in.time

    PowerBook 5300ce

    @Innes, I looked inside the battery bay but couldn't find any stickers or printed/stamped dates. What exactly did the rebuild program entail? Planning to tear into the lower part of the machine this week to try to solder that connector back down. I did step one of the battery rebuild today: opening the battery. I used a dremel tool along the 3 sides that are hidden inside the PowerBook. However, the plastic was very "melt" prone. I had to give it a little assist with a box cutter to cut any stray plastic that had melted the top and bottom back together, as well as to shave off excess plastic that had accumulated along the cut line. Finally, the cells themselves were glued to one another AND secured to the top and bottom of the case. I used a hair dryer on the top of the case for several minutes and then a flat head screw driver to gently separate the battery cells from the top half of the case so I could open it up and count the number of cells inside (12 AA sized NiMH cells, btw). I feel like I got lucky getting this unit when I did, as half the cells inside the battery pack had begun to corrode and leak. Had the computer remained in storage for a while longer I am sure it would have met the same fate as so many other PowerBook 190 and 5300 series machines have met due to the leak-prone main battery of this generation. Now to find some decent tabbed NiMH cells on Amazon... Ideally I'll find some cells that have capacities way above what was available in 1995/1996 and the computer will be able to get a better run time than when new. As much as I'd love to keep this machine, I need to trim away some of the systems I've bought recently. I'd like to get back to 10 and I think at the moment I'm close to 16. Oops. Maybe this one will make its way to the Trading Post or eBay at some point. Still fun to work on for a bit though, even if just for the trip down memory lane.
  8. just.in.time

    PowerBook 5300ce

    @M235i Awesome, that’s what i was hoping for! I’m sorry your unit didn’t pan out though that’s always a bummer when shipping destroys things.
  9. just.in.time

    PowerBook 5300ce

    Lucked out and picked up a PowerBook 5300ce from my local Craigslist earlier today. The price was nice, at a fair $50. The RAM is maxed at 64mb, and the original 1.1 gb hard drive seems to work okay. The battery tries to charge but just gets incredibly toasty. No corrosion whatsoever, so that was a pleasant surprise. I'm going to try to rebuild the battery. Plastics and hinges still seem good. But I'll never be closing it again so that's really a mute point. Only area where it needs some work (aside from battery) is the DC power jack. It can be a little touchy (much like my old 5300cs was, ironically enough). Does anyone have any advice for repairing that jack? I'm planning to just resolder it down. If anything else more involved is needed I may start a thread for it in the PPC PowerBook forum. Since my first Macintosh was a PowerBook 5300cs (owned 2001 to 2005), I figured it would be nice to have a 5300 series system again Of course now I have to sell a machine to make room.
  10. just.in.time

    Couldn't help myself...

    That’s more like it! 8gb RAM as well? As for all the old drives, raid in a NAS system.
  11. just.in.time

    performa 550

    Very cool, the 550 is a great 68030 machine! Definitely an interesting RAM amount. Workable for 7.1, but the machine is really capable with a 32mb stick installed to bring it to 36mb total. 7.5.5 and 7.6.1 become viable options. Also, depending on what games and software you plan on running and FPU can provide a little boost as well. Never played with the IIe card, or any Apple II software. Always seemed neat though, good luck
  12. just.in.time

    Macintosh TV questions

    Any of the sleds from another TV or LC5xx should work fine. Maybe others as well. Incredibly carefully. If you bring the machine to the very edge of a table and look up from underneath, you should be able to see how the latch is. Gently manipulate it until you are able to swing the lower edge of the front part towards you and then it should come away. Again, this part is identical to the LC5xx machines, so any videos or instruction you find for them will be applicable here. Be very careful with the plastics, they are insanely brittle.
  13. good work on fixing the display!
  14. Many of the IDE/PATA Pioneer drives will work without issue. I think several of Apple’s drives were just relabeled Pioneer units. I have one in my G4 and I don’t recall needing to use patchburn to get it working for native burning under Tiger. (However I have used Patchburn back in 2004 or so to get a CD burner working in a Beige G3 running Panther and it worked great, handy utility.)
  15. just.in.time

    SE/30 can’t find HD

    That sucks that it wasn’t properly cleaned last time. I’m wondering if you can give it a good wash to actually clear any remaining electrolitic fluid and then just resolder each pin one at a time along that side facing the capacitors. Just 11 pins right? If you have a solder sucked it shouldn’t be too horrible. Maybe someone with more experience around that chip can comment. At any rate, if previous owner screwed up cleaning there you can probably assume the rest of the board had a crap cleaning job as well. So a thorough washing is probably in order regardless before other common areas are damaged.
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