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About Johnnya101

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Moultonborough, NH
  • Interests
    Model Ts, macs, radios, film, and more!

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  1. I've tested all of the connections, all good. I'll just list it up for sale, I'm not really good with this stuff. Jinnai, if ya want a project 140, it could be yours! Lol.
  2. Haven't found anything obviously wrong. Just wiped it down a little more with alcohol and a qtip. Guess I'll try and see if that little amount of cleaning made a difference. Looking more like one of the ics might be bad.
  3. Ok folks, here is a photo of the front and back of the LCD PCB. Jinnai, I'm not too good with electronics either , but have any idea where abouts that stuff is? In the meantime, it's buzzing time.
  4. If I had another 140 I'd swap the LCD. I do have a 160 LCD... But I'd probably damage it when swapping it. Different things.
  5. I can post a photo of the entire LCD later today. It was kind of corroded before recapping, but my recapper appeared to have cleaned most of it up. I'd hate for this to go to waste.
  6. Well, the inverter after Ive looked into it some more only controls backlight and contrast. So thats out. That leaves the interconnect board, LCD, maybe cable (Even though its been tested?. At this point I've tried reconnecting the video cable (both ends) multiple times, pressed around the border of the LCD to see if there's a bad connection in it, smacked the screen to check for a loose connection. Nothing has done anything. The screen is exactly split in half. Surely someone can pinpoint what to check next? I have a known good 160 I can swap the display cable from but I'd hate to have to dismantle my third Powerbook within 24 hours.
  7. Reseated LCD cable on the inverter AND LCD itself. Nothing. Edit: Is a 160 inverter compatible with a 140? Maybe I should swap them out and see what happens. I really dont think its the ribbon cable since I tested for continuity. LCD doesnt appear to be the culprit either just from looking at it. After looking at Apples service manual. Apple seems to think the LCD or interconnect board. No mention of the inverter. Also mentions a display cable shim, but this cable seems to already have one, plus its a tight fit...? Any ideas? Edit again: Inverter on a 160 has different outputs. Interconnect board looks different too.
  8. Better photo. My phone keeps putting the photo out of focus as you can see above. Reseated the ribbon cable to LCD. No change. Tried shaking the thing a little and flexing the cable. No change. Caps all appear to be correct polarity. Really hope this isnt a bad screen... Speaker still clicks every now and then. Adjusting contrast and brightness dont do anything with relation of the lines. Edit: Apparently after some research the ghosting is normal for a pasive matrix, and mine looks far better than some. Doesnt bother me, just was wondering. But those darn lines do! Edit Edit: Could it be the inverter? Got that recapped though. Would an inverter do this?
  9. Mission success in transplanting a 160 display cable to my 140! Screen is super duper bright and contrast and brightness work... well... like new! Screen is crisp and clean for the most part. But of course, like always, theres an issue. The bottom half of the screen has lines on it, but ONLY the bottom half! Bad screen, logic board, cable...? Cable has good continuity so I would hope its not that. Hope this is a known and easy fix? Also some ghosting on the top left. Looks like what would happen on an unrecapped LCD. ALL CAPS REPLACED on LCD and inverter (You can tell. SUPER bright screen! ). RECAPPED PSU! Also I noticed that after not using the speaker for a minute, and if I go to the sound control panel and change the volume, theres a loud click right before it plays the sound. I also noticed just messing around in the OS there is a click once in a while. ??? Is it just warming up after decades of rest? No battery installed.
  10. No idea how bad it was, all my recapper said was that both sets were rotted. The leaking was super super bad. Luckily it was just those two caps. The goo was so bad it of course ste through the traces and pads, but the cap was loose and rolling around!
  11. Both sets were rotted.
  12. Johnnya101

    Ripped 140 Display Cable

    Just checked continuity of the new cable. All good, tests good. All of the model numbers and writing on it are the exact same. The black lines on the screen must have been a bad LCD because the cable tests fine. Sticky note says backlight was broken too so probably was abused. Will update if it works out.
  13. Johnnya101

    Ripped 140 Display Cable

    Opened up my parts 160 (bad logic board, really destroyed hinges, missing parts, etc) this morning. See that it has a display cable labeled 630-6271-02! Same as my 140!! You'd think that they would reinforce the edges. Managed to get it unplugged without ripping it this time. I'll swap it out today. There's a sticky note on the 160 that says there is a huge black bar going across the screen, which would indicate a bad cable or bad screen. Hoping it is just a bad screen. The cable looks good. I'll break out the multimeter and check for continuity before testing.
  14. Johnnya101

    Ripped 140 Display Cable

    Found someone with a similar issue regarding a broken cable here: They apparently successfully used a cable from a 140 in a 160 (Or vice versa). The parts 160 has a sticky note that says it has a bad screen that has lines on it. Hopefully its just a bad LCD, and not a bad cable...
  15. Johnnya101

    Ripped 140 Display Cable

    Possibly good news... Heres a photo of my Powerbook 160 and the limited view of the display cable, compared to my 140s broken cable. My 140s cable is 630-6271-02, and the 160 has one labeled 630-6271-A. They look exactly the same. Will I damage anything swapping the cable from my parts 160 (hoping that its not torn) to my 140? Are they compatible even though the 160 is grayscale?