Jump to content

asaggynoodle

6502
  • Content Count

    149
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by asaggynoodle

  1. Armed with the Engineering Schematics, PCB files, and a soldering iron we have achieved PowerBook glory! http://imgur.com/a/Yviy6 GeekBench: https://browser.primatelabs.com/geekbench2/2603039 With a score of 1136 we've claimed the seat of the highest Geekbench Powerbook Benchmark ever! Thanks to the 90nm 7448A chip, it has some pretty controllable thermals. Once I get some more AS5 I'll be going further as there is plenty of headroom here both thermally and Voltage wise. I'm going to expect somewhere in the ballpark of 2.3Ghz - 2.5Ghz, being limited by the thermal capacity of the cooling solution when it's all said and done.
  2. asaggynoodle

    1.67 GHZ Flickering Screen

    My first thought is to check the LCD cable, especially the connector. When the machine is on, try and put some pressure in different positions on the Flat-Flex connector on the Motherboard. My reasoning for it being the cable is it's the easiest thing that can go bad unless the display itself got damaged. Does the machine display output work fine if you connect it to an external monitor via DVI? That should tell you exactly where to start looking.
  3. asaggynoodle

    G5 Video Card Options

    In addition to what was mentioned here, just about any of the cards mentioned here will all be overclockable quite significantly especially the ATI ones. So if the price difference is quite substantial from one card to the next, you can always find a solid guide on volt modding (which is unbelievably easy on these old cards). Then go ahead and use something like ATIccellerator and max out the clock on it. I mean realistically if you can get an extra ~30-40% for simply putting some pencil lead over a resistor on the Voltage Controller and dragging a slider, it might be a good try instead of spending a couple hundred for a card that's only the same bit faster.
  4. asaggynoodle

    Recovering PB100 batteries

    You're completely right.. Most of the modern (Atleast LiPo) cells I've seen have built in over/under charge circuitry. So at least the Battery itself would be fine, but I'm not at all sure how a lead acid charging circuit differs from any other like with a NiMH etc. Recharging could be handled in a number of ways, if the laptop itself couldn't do it, you could add a super simple 19.5v Step down charging circuit to use with a normal laptop charger. Or even have some AA rechargeable Sanyo Eneloops in a 3D printed tray, and just pop them out to charge. But that would be very manual and tedious.
  5. asaggynoodle

    Recovering PB100 batteries

    Should be doable. At that time, there wasn't any kind of power controller for the battery cells itself. So, you can just replace the cells as long as it's the same voltage and be good to go. I'm sure you can hack mostly anything you want in there.
  6. asaggynoodle

    PowerBook 1400c - ultimate upgrades

    The thing literally had everything perfectly sealed and unused when I bought it, The sleeve had never even been opened for those covers. I'll take a look and see which card it is and report back for you. IF you have any pictures of what I'm looking for I'd appreciate it. Is it located right next to the CPU? Mine has all kinds of cards and things inside.
  7. asaggynoodle

    PowerBook 1400c - ultimate upgrades

    Looks like I do have that video card in mine then, I wondered what in the heck that was... (Pardon the pictures, they were the best ones I have).
  8. asaggynoodle

    PowerBook 1400c - ultimate upgrades

    Wait a minute... What does this video card or port look like? I have a weird video card port in the one I've got, but never knew what it was for...
  9. So I'm curious as to what kind of Time Table we're talking about here for a first revision physical prototype? Also, are you planning for the board house to do all/some (QFP/BGA's) of the component level work, or are you planning on doing that yourself/selling as a kit?
  10. I'd stick with the Wallstreet, as it's the most modern of your options. Plus you're going to pay a collectors premium on anything older than the Wallstreet, as it's probably the most economically feasible option. There are a few FDD expansion modules on eBay for it too: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2055119.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xpowerbook+floppy+module.TRS2&_nkw=powerbook+floppy+module&_sacat=0 Be warned, of all the PB's i've had (a ton), a VAST substantial majority of them have unreliable Floppy Disk Drives.
  11. Unless the software you're running actually uses the FPU, you probably wont see any difference. You'd be best comparing a 68040 vs a 68LC040, that would pretty much give you an idea as the only difference between he two is the FPU. I just look at the price, I was genuinely surprised at how much those cost.. If you want a fully maxed machine and to say it has an FPU go for it.
  12. asaggynoodle

    IDE to SD adapter in a Pismo?

    Very interesting, thank you for posting that. Suppose you're right, out of the mountains of hard disks I've got, all of them from ~1998 (Earliest one's that work still) are much smaller than I remember. I guess I've forgotten the fine details over the while as my Western Digital Caviar 34000 is labeled in 4000.7MB, not 4GB. My goodness how time fly's.
  13. asaggynoodle

    IDE to SD adapter in a Pismo?

    Is that a physical limitation? Or could that be gotten around by just partitioning a larger drive into 127GB Slices?
  14. asaggynoodle

    IDE to SD adapter in a Pismo?

    Everyone in here has pretty much given you the whole spiel. But, the primary reason the SD adapters are slow dang slow is because of the Bus Controllers used in the adapters are almost always capped at ~20MB/s bandwidth (Not sure if it's a Firmware issue, or the Chip/implementation itself is so slow). Seeing as how the higher end "Pro" SD cards can reach ~100MB/s, they should not be the limiting factor. My opinion is going to be shifted towards the mSATA adapter as SSD prices have basically fallen out of the sky over the last year (128GB for around ~$35). Whichever is a better Price/Performance is what you should go with. Whether that's CF or mSATA is up to you.
  15. asaggynoodle

    EXTREEM EDITION : goodwill and thrift finds !

    Mine here doesn't have any computers either. Not sure what the policy is, but after months of no success I've given up. Now, when it comes to peripherals and other cables etc, that might find itself more evident. There always seems to be dozens of keyboards and other odd-ends.
  16. asaggynoodle

    MDD 2003 vs G5 1.8 single

    Don't care what anyone says, that G5 is going to be a much more enjoyable experience as far as performance is concerned. Especially with web browsing, you will see a stark difference. The only time you're going to really get ahead of a Single G5 system, with a Single G4 (Even the latest), is if you're pushing atleast a 1:1 or higher clock speed. My 2Ghz PowerBook G4 was still only about ~20-30% faster overall than that 1.8Ghz G5. That thing was what I would consider just tolerable for a modern browser experience.
  17. asaggynoodle

    SE/30 Overclock: Is it possible?

    Of course not, but if we lived by that logic we would still be in caves. I read that article you posted, as you can see for the most part that actually worked. Keep in mind, he changed the Crystal for the entire system. Most of those problems wouldn't prevail if we went my suggested route and added a second Crystal directly for the CPU.. As far as I can tell, he might be okay if he doesn't go too far with the CPU clock as there possibly could be something with that GLU to do with the problems the others had. I think you're talking about the MC88916 that'd be in charge of all the BUS signals. Only thing I'd be concerned about at this point is the 68882. How that FPU is going to handle that deviation from stock clock is anyone's guess. I'm thinking you'd have to pull both the FPU and CPU to that new Crystal. I don't have the schematics so I cannot really make anything for certain, really a shot in the dark. But it'd be worth a shot. In terms of actual implementation you'd just need to run a fine wire loop around Pin E1, and run that to the newer Crystal. Then go ahead and cover the Pin itself with some electrical tape or Krylon if you have any. That will insulate the old Source in the socket, and connect it to the new one without a drop of solder (although, you'd want to make that permanent after testing). Then you can at least give it a shot. Nobody is guaranteeing it's going to work, but that's part of the fun. Might work, might not.
  18. asaggynoodle

    SE/30 Overclock: Is it possible?

    That 68030 is socketed in the SE/30 isn't it? If it is, you could easily do it without anything crazy in a number of ways. It would only be snipping one pin either way, or insulating it.
  19. asaggynoodle

    SE/30 Overclock: Is it possible?

    Totally doable, and possible. You will need to replace the Crystal for the XTAL frequency on the CPU. I believe (Correct me if I'm wrong) the CPU runs at a 1:1 ratio with the XTAL source. Problem is I don't know what's going to happen to whatever else derives their signals from that clock. Usually the first things that break is ADB/Serial and possibly SCSI. ALTHOUGH, I have an idea that you can leave that Crystal in place so all of the system devices keep their stock clock, but then setup the higher frequency crystal ONLY for the XTAL input to the CPU. So you could cut the XTAL pin that comes from the old crystal, and run it to the new one. That way the CPU is overclocked, and nothing else breaks. Edit* Totally doable, pin E1 gets routed to the XTAL of the higher frequency crystal.
  20. asaggynoodle

    the iBook's logo.

    Only real economical option would be 3D-Printed using whatever materials you wanted. An actual Injection Mold assembly run would be a fortune. Even in bulk of 500 after all the machining of the Molds etc, you'd probably be looking at least ~$30-$40 a piece pure cost.
  21. asaggynoodle

    Metal stand for the monitor of an Apple IIc

    While they are on the more uncommon side, they pop up on the Bay every blue moon. Usually go for around ~$40. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Apple-IIc-monitor-stand-with-box-used-/272418868598?hash=item3f6d6e0d76:g:kfEAAOSwZJBYBt9h
  22. asaggynoodle

    OS for Power Mac G5 -- 10.4 or 10.5?

    If you go with something Ubuntu based like Ubuntu MATE (in the video above), there are usually some extra modules bundled in the Kernel so most modern Mac's work *Mostly* out of the box as far as networking and Graphics support. Debian is going to be MUCH more bare-bones, you'll have to do a lot of manual configuration and installation if you go with Debian. Overall, ATI seems to have much better support in these cases if you do go down this route. I'm going to say Tiger is going to be a lot better in terms of overall performance than Leopard. But if you neuter all that System indexing and bloat (Mainly Spotlight etc) - you should get pretty close to Tiger performance.
  23. asaggynoodle

    OS for Power Mac G5 -- 10.4 or 10.5?

    You should checkout Debian or your favorite fork of Ubuntu. Then run Mac-On-Linux on top, that way you can have the modern software and hardware support that a modern GNU/Linux OS brings. Put that along with a near native performance OS X Virtual Machine side-by-side, is a recipe for success. Biggest Achilles heel to that machine is going to be the lack of a GPU-Accelerated Web Browser.
  24. asaggynoodle

    PowerBook 3400c Keyboard woes

    Used to be an infamous issue like this If i remember correctly for the 3400c.. Is the Keyboard ribbon cable at all dirty or damaged? I would get a cotton swab with some high concentrate Isopropyl alcohol and rub off the contacts. Probably want to make sure they are in correctly/fully as well.
  25. asaggynoodle

    Overclocking a Sonnet Encore MDX

    The thing is we don't know how the configuration is laid out in 3rd party boards. There is really no way of knowing exactly. From all the Datasheets I have, the CPUPLLCFG resistors are all rated as 10K, or in SMD case, "103". So, your best bet is to look for any resistors the have "103" on them. Then we can go from there.
×