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EagleTG

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Everything posted by EagleTG

  1. Hi all, I've been messing around with my Power Macintosh 6100 DOS compatibility card and have run into an issue finding an image of the CD-ROM that allegedly includes some additional drivers that were not included on the floppies (or were included on floppy in some versions?). Information I have found thus far online has been a bit unclear. There might not even be a CD, but Apple's own documentation seems to reference one. For example, the following post shows no CD in the box contents, but seems to include many more floppies than I've found imaged online. I have the "official" set of 1.6.4 and 2.1.7f from Apple, but they don't seem to include enough of what I need. I have sound working via generic Soundblaster 16 stuff, mouse is OK in Windows and DOS (used generic drivers). My big challenge is in the video department. I can't seem to find compatible VESA drivers for the video card. I've even tried various versions of UniVBE with no luck. Certain versions detect it, others won't detect. The ones that detect it have crashed in random and weird ways when I've tried to use them. The card is apparently a Chips and Technologies 82c450 (sometimes nicknamed the 450), I've found sites that reference the chip on this card as a 65xxx but I can't seem to get 65535 or other drivers to work either. I also can't seem to find Windows 3.1 or 98 drivers. I was, however, able to get Windows 95 going in 640x480 at 256 colors (but nothing higher). I wanted to go spelunking around the depths of the Internet Archive, but can't seem to figure out what C&T's domain name was to see if they had some drivers available. I've also tried finding other systems that utilized this video chip and had some success finding files, however none of them worked when I tried using them. (Specifically the Toshiba LC110 Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  2. Hi LaPorta, the zip file that NJRoadfan posted had everything I needed. Just in time, too. I had an exhibit at VCF East that starred my PowerMac 6100 and DOS card. Thanks for the offer. I have what I needed, but maybe it’s worth posting what you have just on the off-chance it differs from the other stuff that’s abaialble. Really appreciate all of the assistance!!
  3. These are awesome, and exactly what I needed. THANK YOU! I wonder why they weren't (or didn't seem to be) in any of the other disk images that I downloaded? You are the best!
  4. This is awesome, thank you. I am already on the right track based solely on this info, will try installing the drivers and let you know. Great site, I've been there many times. The drivers they link to are (sadly) only two floppies, one for Mac and one for PC. In fact, the link on the site was broken when Apple removed their legacy support pages. One suitable mirror link (for future Googlers) is: http://mirror.macintosharchive.org/download.info.apple.com/Apple_Support_Area/Apple_Software_Updates/English-North_American/DOS-Windows/DOS_and_PC_Compatibility_SW/ Thanks again guys, this is all great info.
  5. EagleTG

    IIgs Keyboard

    The picture is from Herb's RetroTechnology.com site. He seems to take pictures of most of the stuff on his site with it sitting in the grass.
  6. EagleTG

    512k repair

    Ahh, didn't see that you are over seas. They seemed quite reasonably priced including shipping for me, but I'm state-side. Good luck if you decide to pick the project up again at some point.
  7. EagleTG

    512k repair

    Maybe the two links in this thread would be of-help? https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/29299-wtb-512kplus-flyback-transformer/
  8. EagleTG

    Mac Plus Flyback Compatibility

    Congrats!
  9. Hi there. Long time lurker, recently registered... Been having relatively decent luck restoring old Macintosh machines for my collection. As luck would have it, the one I want to work the most out of my collection (the Macintosh Color Classic) has also proven the most difficult to repair. This machine has had all of the classic issues, I've already replaced all of the logic board caps (which cured a lot that ailed it), replaced the battery, cleaned contacts, reflowed the analog board, replaced all bad caps on the analog board (anything that tested bad via ESR or was common brand/model cap of any other ones that tested bad). I've disassembled the hard drive to cure a stiction problem with the arm, fabricated a new rubber "home position bumper" out of a grommet. The hard drive now spins up reliably when outside of the machine, but I found that it wouldn't spin when installed inside the machine. A quick check of the voltages at the HDD connector showed that I've got 4.5v on the 5v and 10.6v on the 12v lines. Not good. I proceeded to investigate the power supply circuit in the machine. I read some things indicating that the power supply requires load to initialize, but this doesn't seem to help mine. I've searched and searched online, I've poured over the circuit boards and any available information I can find relating to this machine. I've tested, poked, prodded, and diagnosed but am still scratching my head. I found a few posts referencing the voltage feedback optoisolators in situations like this. Surely that has to be the solution! So I replaced the CNY75GB optocouplers (both of them, they're cheap). Still no joy. Can anyone make some recommendations on next steps here? I feel like I'm soooo close to having this guy work. I've got hours and hours and bunches of money in parts into it at this point, don't want to give up now. I find the machine a bit tough to troubleshoot as the boards have to be installed to get it to boot, makes testing at the board with it powered up very difficult. Additionally, the combination of monitor and power supply voltages on this board makes me cautious about poking around with it powered-up anyway. If it were just AC and DC power supply-level voltages, I'd have no issue doing-so. The HV stuff for the monitor makes me a bit more leery. Schematics seem to be unavailable, I've been looking through some of the information for the B&W Classics as the circuits seem to be similar-ish. So far nothing has jumped out at me as the problem here. I'm assuming the 5 and 12 volt rails are derived from each other in some way, I did read a post that indicated this as well. I'm assuming once I get one of them straightened out, the other will follow suit. Thanks in advance for any troubleshooting advice you can provide. -Todd
  10. Ok, thanks. I did replace both of the CNY75GB opto-isolators, so I'll investigate the resistors and switching IC. Thanks again for the help.
  11. Thanks techknight, I appreciate the assistance. I know it's been a while, but I'm poking at this machine again. Current status, I've completely recapped the analog board. I had wanted to complete this, but needed to order some additional parts as there are some bizarre values on this board (and very tight quarters so physical dimensions are of more importance than most electronics I repair). That's done. Glad I did, too, as I found some additional caps that had quietly leaked (no visual indication, passed ESR test, stank upon heating/desoldering and had small puddles under them). I've also spent a lot more time researching the issue, but I'm still in the same boat. Oddly the machine boots up to a flasing ? floppy icon every time (because the drive is disconnected or doesn't properly spin up). The voltages being low don't seem to bother the logic board from a base functionality perspective, if in fact the voltages are low there as well. The hard drive definitely doesn't like it. Are there good points to test for power at the logic board? I know the floppy port is a great spot on other "toasters", but not on this one. I don't recall yet having checked the feedback resistors as you recommended. Forgive the potentially stupid question, but would these be resistors that are part of the optocoupler/optoisolator circuit? I'm also wondering if it's worth getting the schematics from MacCaps? I know they are reverse engineered, are people generally happy with the purchase? I don't mind spending the money for a quality product. Thanks for any additional hand holding anyone here can provide. Edit: One additional question, is there any way to work on these more easily? Getting the AB in and out of the frame is a painful and tedious process. I haven't tried ripping the entire thing apart to see if I can isolate the board connectors for use in a "bench test" style environment. Any tips from that perspective, or is it just "take board out, work on something, put board back in, test"? -Todd
  12. EagleTG

    Repairing broken CRT mounts on a SE

    I had some pretty decent luck rebuilding similarly demolished mounts using standard "JB Weld". I've used a lot of epoxy, this was the first I had used JB Weld for anything, and I can truly say that it's incredible beyond the shadow of any doubt. Stuff sets like steel. Normal epoxy gives you some chances, and then you can clean it up via files, etc. once it's dry. Not so much with this stuff. Both good and bad I guess.
  13. EagleTG

    Apple 2c and 3.5 floppy disk

    According to the Apple II Wiki Reference, you can use a Apple UniDisk 3.5 (A2M2053) with a later version of the //c ROM. http://apple2.info/wiki/index.php?title=A2_3.5_Drives There was a really nice compatibility chart floating around, but I'm having trouble finding that right now. Found the chart:
  14. EagleTG

    Compact Macintosh Value? Plus, SE, SE/30

    It also depends how much you value your time and/or enjoy working on the machines. For me, I'm OK not making a whole lot on resale, as I enjoy the process of repairing the machines. Once they are up and running, I tend to enjoy them far less. LOL
  15. EagleTG

    Compact Macintosh Value? Plus, SE, SE/30

    I've picked up my fair share of all of the LC series for between $25 and $40. All of these wind up needing capping. The toaster Macs are "generally" under $100. Most of them vary between $40 and $75 depending on condition, included accessories, functional status, etc. The SE/30 trends higher, maybe $100 or so (again depending on condition, accessories, functionality). The original 128k being the most expensive of the lot in my experience, the price of which also seems to be wildly variable. Color Classics are also higher. Your suspicion is correct, eBay sellers are generally higher. One nice tip, if you go to eBay and do an advanced search/filter you can flag "Sold Items" which will give you an idea of what people are paying for stuff. Keep in mind, shipping cost is generally a concern as well and probably figures into the buyer's bid amount. Good luck!
  16. EagleTG

    Macintosh 128k issues

    Oooh, that's a great tip, and a great use for an older iPhone!!!
  17. EagleTG

    Macintosh 128k issues

    Nope, but that doesn't mean it isn't AWESOME. Hahah.
  18. EagleTG

    SE/30 Woes

    Can you post a pic of the back side of the board, too? Something overall like you did of the front? Thanks!
  19. EagleTG

    imac G3 cleaning tips

    +1 on the Novus products, they are very good. Additionally, I'm not sure that it matters much considering the limited duration of application, but I generally stay away from ammonia-based cleaners around plastics. They can cause damage/yellowing. That said, my favorite cleaner for plastic parts is Glass Plus. It's ammonia-free and actually smells pretty good too.
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