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    • I don't know if what I have can be called "confidence", I just wing it and pray it works out. That's how I've been fixing things for decades and somehow it hasn't bit me in the rear; yet.   These old machines are honestly a good starting point. Plastics are fragile, but component density is much lower. The LCD controller circuit is mounted beside the screen, whereas modern units have the board stuck to the back. The isolation provided by the side-mounted board makes it a lot easier to keep heat away from the panel and eliminates the risk of applying too much pressure to the back of the screen.   But, like Byrd said, it really depends on what you want out of a vintage Mac. Classic Macintosh computers aren't always the most stable things, even when fully restored, so plenty of people would rather just keep the machines as a display piece since they have little practical use.   I just feel bad for these old computers and want to bring them back to a fully operational status and use them as originally intended. Especially ones like the 180c that weren't especially well received in their day. Once the screen is repaired I'll be rebuilding another 1xx series battery pack so I can watch the colour LCD chew threw the battery in under an hour and get that genuine 1993 Apple experience
    • One option could be manufacturing adapter boards that mate with the SE/30 (or other model) motherboard via solder tabs, also some later era LC/Quadra/Centris models with the ROM socket solder holes unpopulated and either have the ROM board directly on that, or have that board have a new ROM SIMM slots. The slot, socket, port and other connector manufacturers even when initially out of stock, will re-run batches on demand, if the batch order count is high enough. In some cases "just" 1000 pieces, which could be doable in some group funding thing.
    • @JDW Good catch. I didn't think they would have different pitches. The pitch for the SE/30 looks to be 0.4" (~10mm). It may be difficult to find an exact replacement, so I think single sockets would be a good, easier to find alternative. Another advantage is if you want to fix just one broken socket, then you could clip the supports in between the two sockets and leave the other one alone.
    • On a 30 pin SIMM pin 1 and pin 30 are 5V DC and that square pin that shorted is pin 1 on the socket. Pin 2 is /CAS.   Burning plastic turns to carbon which is conductive so clean the black goo off with alcohol and see if it is still shorting the 5 volt rail. If all those tantalum capacitors were shorted to ground I expect them to explode so its something else. The power supply should shut down on a direct short.
    • Well, went and checked - C155 is shorted, along with just about every other capacitor. The +5v rail is shorted to ground somewhere; I'm guessing that probably fried a few things.   Oh well, it will make a nice shelf piece.
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