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BadGoldEagle

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Everything posted by BadGoldEagle

  1. BadGoldEagle

    Portable & SCSI2SD Questions

    @godfatherq8 you’ll need a 50 pin to 34 pin SCSI adapter/cable but apart from that SCSI is SCSI so yes it’ll be compatible. edit: Apparently Alaska sells them... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Macintosh-Portable-34-to-50-pin-SCSI-Hard-drive-Adapter-/312047710466
  2. BadGoldEagle

    Mac SE/30 parts

    Hey there, Pictures speak louder than words. If you could snap a few and post them here it'll be easier to assess the damage. Apparently the acid didn't run all over the board, that's good. So we'd be looking at this area of the board: credits to James Wages (JDW) for the pictures, as always. If you haven't done so, remove the remains of the Maxell bomb. Then put your board in a container and fill it with white vinegar. You'll want to neutralise that acid before doing anything else. Let it sit for a bit. Come back after an hour or so and scrub out all the rust/acid on the board with a toothbrush as much as you can. Be particularly careful NOT TO DAMAGE the chip labeled RTC if it's not too damaged to begin with. Then, you can finish rinsing it off with hot soapy water and then just tap water. Dry it the best you can (hair dyer works wonders but IPA is also good). Then we move on to the fun part. - UI2 to UI4 and UJ2 to UJ4 are just 74 series logic chips, 74LS258 to be more exact. You can get brand new ones online. They are used for the RAM and the ROM. Speaking of the latter, you will have to remove the connector. It WILL have crap under it, shorting pins together. Here's the schematic for this section: https://museo.freaknet.org/gallery/apple/stuff/mac/andreas.kann/SE30_P2.GIF - RP4 to RP6, RP8 and RP9 are resistor packs. I don't know their exact value yet... but those should be easy to find a replacement for. - 68882: That's your Floating Point Unit or FPU. That's a very specific part. You can probably find a replacement on ebay or something. But they can be expensive (beware of the fake clones!) - If the acid got to the RAM SIMMs, you need to buzz them individually to check for damage. You might have to remove the connector altogether if it's too bad. https://museo.freaknet.org/gallery/apple/stuff/mac/andreas.kann/SE30_P3.GIF - Video ROM. As the name suggests, it's just a ROM. I think someone already dumped it. It would just be a matter of flashing the image onto a new chip and probably replacing the socket. - PDS Connector. That's the long 120 pin connector. Acid might be shorting a few pins... If some of it got underneath it, remove it. - Y1: Oscillator. Should be replaceable. - RTC: NOT REPLACEABLE. IF IT'S GONE, IT'S GONE. I'm not sure the SE/30 can work without it... That's your biggest concern at the moment. - D1 & D2: probably diodes... Not that important for now. Ok. Now, you'll have to remove nearly all the components listed above. That can be an enormous task, I know but it's needed as some traces are definitely damaged. And since the components are above some of them, it makes the process of buzzing every single one of them easier. Try to follow each one along and test them at each end or use the schematics above. That can be an enormous task. I know, I have done it on an SE (not SE/30). I didn't have to remove every single chip because the damage was pretty contained. You mention the 74 series logic chips as being rusted, I'm afraid you can't get away with repairing it without removing them all... Good luck!
  3. Just stumbled across this thread. Can this be of any use? https://nerdhut.de/2016/06/26/macintosh-classic-crt-1/
  4. BadGoldEagle

    Dead Performa 475

    I didn't know it could run without the onboard RAM. Yeah, I wouldn't personally bother to solder new chips back in except if you want to really get the most out of your Quadra. But even so, 128mb instead of the full 132mb should still be more than satisfactory.
  5. BadGoldEagle

    Dead Performa 475

    Congrats! My first hot air desoldering attempt was on a Sony WM-D6C. It failed and I used the regular iron instead. But I did manage to solder the new IC back with the hot air station. I blame the shoddy chinese clone. Did you replace the chips or did you just remove them?
  6. BadGoldEagle

    Dead Performa 475

    Hi @sirlemonhead and welcome to the 68kmla and to the Mac world. The LC475 / Quadra 605 / Performa 475 or 476 need a fresh PRAM battery in order to display video. You've got one on the way so that's good. The chimes of death can mean a lot of things, but usually bad RAM is what's causing it. It has onboard RAM, you don't need to add extra RAM SIMMs. I would get a toothbrush and clean the board with soapy water and then IPA. Capacitor goo is conductive and could be shorting some components. I know I'll probably sound like a douche for saying this, but any late 80s - 90s Mac with SMD electrolytic caps with startup issues should be recapped before any further diagnosing is done. Hopefully it's either just a short or a bad chip. But even if it's just RAM, there's still a strong chance the caps will prevent it from booting. You'll still have to do it sooner or later. For those reasons, I would still proceed with the recap. As far as rust and bad traces are concerned, pictures would be great! Edit: The RAM chips might be a little difficult to get hold of. Octopart reference 5 sellers but I don't know if they still stock those parts... https://octopart.com/km44c1000bj-7-samsung-2254199
  7. I don't know but my initial guess would be 105 Celsius maximum... Your discovery is quite worrying as I too have one of these. Time to break out the IR temp gun? PS: I haven't got any pictures of mine (I used your magnificent pictures when I needed to point out something. Don't worry, I credited your work in my posts.) but I didn't know your board had a CPU rated at 40MHz and not 50! Could that partially explain the heat? But then your FPU is rated at 50MHz... so I really don't know.
  8. BadGoldEagle

    Strange SE/30 Card

    That is an awesome setup! If you (for some reason) don’t want to keep it, I’d buy it off you in a heartbeat! On a side note: This appears to be an SE/30 upgraded SE. The sticker was different on those machines.
  9. BadGoldEagle

    Who knows HyperDrive boards?

    @unity I meant it might be the same PSU... Sorry I wasn’t precise enough in my last post.
  10. BadGoldEagle

    Who knows HyperDrive boards?

    It might be worth checking this... It might be the same one...
  11. BadGoldEagle

    Apple CD SC question

    Should work.
  12. BadGoldEagle

    Apple CD SC question

    The lens on mine was pretty dirty as well... I had to take it apart and clean it with isopropanol and a q tip. What type of CDs did you try it with? Give plain Audio CDs a go. They tend to work better with units that need servicing (something to do with the surface being easier for the laser to read compared to pressed data CDs or CD-Rs, the latter being really difficult to get working...) And bibilit is again absolutely right. Sound does NOT pass through SCSI. You need a pair of speakers connected at the back. It also won't start playing immediately. So you definitely need software to interact with it. You can get it here: http://macintoshgarden.org/apps/applecd150 (The 150 is the successor to the successor of the CD SC) but that program is backwards compatible and works with 6.0.5 or later And finally, yes, unfortunately, caps are a problem on these units...
  13. BadGoldEagle

    Laserwriter / Laserwriter Plus refurbishment

    I’m also interested. I don’t have a Laserwriter yet but I’d like to have one some day. There are a lot of guides on how to refurbish floppy drives, cases, logicbords etc but surprisingly none are for printers. I have an original ImageWriter that has some serious issues (foam degradation, rust, lack of lubrication in general). I have managed to find the service manual (which wasn’t easy back when i originally searched for it!) but there’s no real how to guide for any printer...
  14. BadGoldEagle

    No sound from Color Classic

    Yes but that will be temporary. You just fixed some of the shorting traces. It will happen again. And again, and again. Only a proper recap: bath or really good scrub and new capacitors/solder can fix it. Then it’ll be good for another 20 years hopefully.
  15. BadGoldEagle

    No sound from Color Classic

    Yes. http://www.maccaps.com/MacCaps/Capacitor_Reference/Entries/1994/2/2_Macintosh_LC_550.html
  16. Hey guys/gals I bought a week ago sight unseen an Apple HD20 for 28€ shipped. I figured, what the heck, if it doesn't work at least it'll look good as a prop. A lot of these don't work anymore, and sure enough, when it finally showed up, it was DOA. I looked online and found this video by Adrian Black... I thought, why not give it a try? Plus, if you look down in the comments, you'll notice that Adrian wasn't the only one to bring one of those stepper motor drives back to life.... 16mmDJ managed to revive his 20mb miniscribe inside his SE using the same method. I ordered some Hetman oil (Lubricant 11, Light Rotor) a week ago and it arrived today. It's actually made for brass instruments, but apparently it can be used to revive old hard drives as well. I set about disassembling this thing. It's actually a lot easier to take apart than the 20SC. I decided to remove and clean every part inside since quite a few dust bunnies had made their home inside the casing. Both the inside and the outside were really filthy. I don't know where or how this was stored but I actually thought I wouldn't be able to restore this cosmetically, but it actually turned out great. It looks new. Anyway, back to the hard drive itself. The stepper motor's shaft is located underneath the drive, so you definitely need to remove the four screws that secure the drive to the chassis first. If you want to know how to take it apart properly, then I suggest taking a look at the HD20 service manual available here. I added a couple of drops of lube and lo and behold... nothing happened. I gave a couple of knocks on each side. Still wouldn't fire up. I tried powering it on and off a couple of times and the PCB started getting really hot! But there was no time for electrical or mechanical sympathy. After a while I heard a click coming from the drive. That was good news. I powered it off and gave it a few more knocks. It went back to sleep. At that point, anger was flowing through my system. I thought I had spent 15 bucks on some lube that made no difference whatsoever and that I would never use again (I'm no trumpeter). So I gave it a really good wack while it was still powered on. And it sprung back into life. It sounded terrible at first but after it warmed up a little, it sounded a lot better. There still wasn't any head movement though. But the motor had sucked up all the lube I had previously applied on its shaft. So I added a couple more drops, and after yet another restart, I saw the heads move a little. It was then I knew I would be able to bring it back. About 10 minutes after that, the drive was as good as new. It now spins up and down like in the olden days. And better yet, it mounts right on my performa's desktop! So now, I have a perfectly working and mint looking HD20. I'm the happiest man on earth right now. I actually mended an old hard drive. I had previously tried to revive an old sony but that ended catastrophically... Here's a terrible picture of my partially disassembled HD20: I was in the process of backing it up before formatting it... Notice the use of the Floppy EMU in HD20 mode connected to the HD20... HD20-ception! So, TL;DR Have an old HD20 with a Rodime HD or an SE with a Miniscribe? Give the drive a good wack and the stepper motor some lubricant and it could spring back into life! PS: I was quite surprised to hear that the Performa 200 (Classic II) had built in HD20 support. I really wonder now why Apple decided to add that back to the ROMs after they deliberately removed it from the SE/30...
  17. BadGoldEagle

    SE/30 RP12 replacement part, bourns filter

    uniserver uses this part # to replace the original filters. It works as it should and as you mentioned, it’s a drop in replacement. I need to get one for my SE 1/40.
  18. BadGoldEagle

    SE/30 RP12 replacement part, bourns filter

    Topic already discussed here: 4120Rs are 20 pin packages and 4116Rs are 16 pin packages. 4120R-601-250/201 are available on farnell.
  19. BadGoldEagle

    Craigslist Mac SE, Mac SE, and Mac Plus

    Great job there. It looks magnificent. I personally use scotch tape to stick the speaker back in. Doesn't look elegant but at least it's easy to remove it for future retr0bright sessions. This is an early SE: stepper motor HD and squirrel-cage fan. Those are loud but they're period correct. If I were you, I would upgrade both or leave it as is. It's up to you though. My M5010 SE (twin floppy model) once had the squirrel-cage fan but the previous owner upgraded it. I might go for a Noctua and a SCSI2SD to make it completely silent. As for the video issue... could be a number of things. Something as simple as a bad solder joint can cause this. I would refresh every single one before moving on to recapping it. Those boards kinda need it nowadays anyhow.
  20. BadGoldEagle

    Iomega Jaz SCSI cable

    Can you post a picture of the drive's connector?
  21. BadGoldEagle

    Cloning old SCSI drive to SD for SCSI2SD

    Hello To sum things up, you first need to find a way to plug the SCSI2SD and the old hard drive to your Classic II simultaneously. You need an old hard drive enclosure (can be costly and perhaps you don't have the desk space for it...) or one of these adapters. Either way, you're going to need a cable to connect it to the Mac. Be careful as most HD enclosures use a Centronics SCSI connector. The Mac doesn't. You'd need a C50 to DB25 adapter if you choose to go that way. If you go for the small PCB adapter (which is what I recommend), get this cable (not a centronics cable...) and a male/male gender changer. The only problem is that those cables are also used for serial and not all pins are connected when that's the case. It might be worth checking with the seller before you buy it. Once the hardware part is covered, you have a few options to do the backup... 1/ Just copy the HD's contents over to a new partition on the SCSI2SD. The system folder may need to be blessed (common issue, google it for more info...). 2/ Use Shrinkwrap (you can install that on the SCSI2SD. I have a partition ready with System 7.5 and Shrinkwrap on an SD card. It's become my backup station.) and create a disk image of the old hard drive. You can use disk copy 6 too but I've had really good results with Shrinkwrap. This later enables you to transfer the image from the SD card to your modern computer and use it with mini vMac or Basilisk II. I covered this method here. Good luck!
  22. BadGoldEagle

    Universal Install vs SE/30 install

    Hi all Most of the things I tried to do yesterday and today with my SE/30 fail miserably... Now I've got a IIsi ROM installed and Mac OS 7.5 gets stuck on the Welcome to Macintosh screen. I remember reading somewhere I should have an Universal installation for this hack to work properly. I don't want to reformat the entire hard drive or change the system folder too much. So, what kind of files in the system folder are specific to the machine? Which ones should I switch for new ones?
  23. BadGoldEagle

    Mac SE FD/HD score, minor quirks

    According to Larry Pina, this could be caused by a bad scsi chip
  24. Yep, apparently my Maccon died. I can't see any damaged traces/chips (apart from the ones which were cut from the factory...) but perhaps I missed one? Here's what I get on the display. (FYI, nothing else's plugged in, just the card without its daughterboard. SE/30 works otherwise well.) Here are some pictures of the board. Any help appreciated Thanks
  25. BadGoldEagle

    My Maccon didn't survive the right angle operation...

    Thanks Joe! You are right, it is B25, not B24. My bad, sorry! And the real 'issue' I'm having tonight is that A22 isn't connected to 5V anymore. That's good but why was I getting a reading earlier today? My multimeter beeps every 5 mins or so if you don't use it. It makes the same high pitched sound as if the two prongs were connected. That could be it... Tomorrow I'll go hunting some more traces, but this time, I'll be armed with the pinouts! I had completely forgotten that the upper PDS connector mirrors the one on the LB. Somehow I got into my head that there was some conversion involved. But even if that was the case, ground and power should still be at the same locations.
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