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Everything posted by BadGoldEagle

  1. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh SE FDHD No Video or Raster

    Very nice. Congrats. Might I suggest the Floppy EMU for large (or small) file transfers? I have one myself and it's great. I'm not sponsored, just a happy customer. I don't use floppies anymore (which in a way spoils the experience) but when I really want to go full retro, I use it to duplicate floppy images to real floppies. It takes about 1 minute. The SD is hot swappable, so I just leave the EMU connected on the back of the (main) Mac, take the SD out, copy an image from the Mac garden, copy it to the SD, plug it back in, mount it and use the classic MacOS to duplicate it to a new physical disk. You can also use it to emulate a 2GB hard drive. But you can totally get away with a SCSI2SD too. It's about the same except you can't emulate floppies and you can't use it on non SCSI macs of course. Since I have quite a few far too many I prefer the Floppy EMU. I wish I could just plug a regular xFAT formatted USB stick to a SCSI emulator and mount the 'stick' on an old mac as an external device. Basilisk and Sheepshaver can "mount" HFS+/APFS folders to OS9 (it basically emulates a Unix drive ). It should be possible to create such a device but unfortunately I don't have the programming skills to do that myself...
  2. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh SE FDHD No Video or Raster

    Good! You should have it up and running in no time then. 4MB and 7.1 should fly on this thing. Looking forward to seeing the finished product in action.
  3. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh SE FDHD No Video or Raster

    Congratulations for fixing it ... and breaking it short afterwards Don't worry, we've all done it. But I've never seen that happen before though. If nothing fell inside the tube, you should be able to just reassemble the two pieces and put it back together. Were you trying to remove the front panel? If you were, here's a tip for you in the future: You can pick up the analog board and the CRT as one piece (so you won't have to remove that anode cap again). Just loosen the A/B and you should be able to remove the two CRT screws hidden just under the board. Then lift up the whole thing and set it aside. Oh and if you really plan on using the most of your FDHD, you should consider an SCSI2SD and/or a Floppy EMU. The hard drives are on their last legs and SSDs are much faster!
  4. BadGoldEagle

    Orange Micro NuBus PC Card - Need Help

    And now for a bit of hijacking... (I promise I won’t take long). The latest OrangePC card is the 660, correct? And can it support a PIII? There are reports online of such a setup but it might be just fake... if it’s not I need one of those for my Quicksilver.
  5. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh SE FDHD No Video or Raster

    I would still reflow those joints. Mine looked perfect but they weren’t. You’ll need a solder sucker sooner or later. The PSUs in those Macs are getting weaker by the day. You’ll probably have to recap it sometime in the near future. So a solder sucker is definitely a good investment. I’m no CRT expert myself but you most certainly have high voltage, so the flyback should be good. If reflowing everything on the board doesn’t fix it, you’ll have to go signal hunting. I don’t think the logic bord’s bad (but I’m no expert unlike techknight). Thankfully the SEs don’t have a complex video circuit (compared to its bigger brother the SE/30). IIRC it’s incorporated in the GLU logic chip and this one doesn’t go bad very often. But the joints on the LB connector can be bad. So I would reflow them too. Again that’s what I would do. It may not help at all. Techknight’s method is definitely the best.
  6. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh SE FDHD No Video or Raster

    Any recommendation for the oscilloscope? I need one of those as well. Neil from RMC uses an app on his iPad and an adapter with prongs connected to the lightning port. It looks fancy but does it really work I wonder?
  7. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh SE FDHD No Video or Raster

    Hi there, Welcome to the 68kmla. Thanks for liberating this poor fella. The FDHD is a great compact to start up with. You'll be able to create disks with your modern computer in no time. Before we go any further, did you dispose of the PRAM battery? If it's silver and red do it NOW before something really bad happens. If it's blue, purple or any other color get rid of it as it's not needed and it's probably dead anyway. After that done... Is the CRT glowing at the back? It might be very faint but if it's there, you have high voltage and that's good. I would reflow (or even replace, that tends to work better) every solder joint on the analog board. I know you already did J1 which is a common problem on those machines but I had the same issue with a Plus several months back and it turned out another joint was bad. So I would replace the solder on J1 and reflow/add a little more solder to the rest of the joints. Also can you check the joints on the logic board connector for cracks? It's also pretty common for a joint to go bad there. And video gets to the analog board via this connector. Last but not least, there might be a short on the CRT board. But only check this if you have high voltage. If you don't, there must be an issue with the Analog board. Also, be careful around CRTs. Those things pack a lot of juice. If you still can't get it working I'm sure someone here will come to your rescue with a spare analog board to do some testing. Good luck!
  8. A picture would be welcome... Apple weren't the only ones manufacturing RAM cards for the Classic. Gold traces aren't particularly desirable. If it's got a single row of chips and two SIMM slots it's probably just a standard RAM card. Of course I'm not saying it cannot be special (custom ROM perhaps? Although I've never seen anything like that before), so a pic would definitely help identify your card. Edit: I replied too soon, the pics weren't in yet. It's a standard RAM card.
  9. BadGoldEagle

    SE/30 video issue that has ME stumped!

    Well, if you've swapped every suspect chip on that board, the only things that could be bad are traces... I know that's kind of a stupid suggestion, but I would go bad trace hunting with a schematic if I were you. https://www.macintoshrepository.org/875-macintosh-se-30-schematics-and-repair
  10. BadGoldEagle

    Restoring my first se/30

    No problem. Those adapters are pretty scarce. I think most of them were used in conjunction with a projector. That's what I intend to use it for, once I figure out a way to connect it to something 'modern'. A few things you need to know about restoring these things: 1/ You should clean the board with isopropyl alcohol before you replace the old caps with the new ones. The old ones probably leaked all over the board and into crevices. 2/ You don't (really) need a replacement battery. It's just there to keep track of time and some of the keyboard/mouse settings. You can find new ones quite easily but it might destroy your board in the future if you forget about it. 3/ For the missing parts, I recommend checking ebay and/or posting a thread in the Trading Post section of the forum. 4/ Don't buy an old SCSI hard drive. Those are on their last legs. Get a newer 68 pin SCSI drive with a 68pin->50pin adapter or even better if you want to future proof your SE/30, a SCSI2SD. 5/ The Analog board and the PSU will need new caps too. You can probably get hold of refurbished units so you won't have to do it all yourself. 6/ That extension connector is known as the SE/30 PDS slot. You can install an ethernet card, a color video card or even an accelerator (68030 or 040).
  11. BadGoldEagle

    Restoring my first se/30

    Yep. This takes internal video and converts it to some odd signal a TTL monitor should be able to interpret. I say "should" because it's still running at the same refresh rate (and the Mac's refresh rate is not standard). This article describes in greater details the video signal. I have a similar adapter. Mine has an additional plug for the Mac Plus. It's pretty straightforward to install. The real issue is that odd refresh rate. There are a few scalers/VGA converters on the market but I haven't gotten around to try any yet. Perhaps this cheap one works?
  12. Humm... Very interesting. It doesn't seem pcie 1.1 affects performance THAT much... It depends on the game of course. But that's not bad. Today I fixed the main issue with my build. Here's a link to the Apple Discussions thread I created a couple of days ago. If any of you are interested... This is the last time I hijack your thread. So @mac-man6, I didn't quite get what you went for? Did you go for the cMP or for a new PC? I can't stand non-Apple hardware (call me a fanboy if you want but I find everything else rather ghastly, especially if it has RGB which it seems you can't really live without nowadays...) so this was easy for me, I went for the cMP. I've checked online and that ATI card is still worth a fortune. I don't quite get that because it's pretty old and not very fast... You might want to sell it and turn a big profit if you don't plan on using it. I know what I'll do with mine
  13. And it's not finished. The card "works" (I may or may not have power issues, but I set the max temperature to 70°C which effectively under clocks it so it's okay). I'll post a new thread on this site probably tonight... It may help someone in the future, who knows...
  14. @mac-man6. I don’t have the right mini 6 pin to full size 8 pin adapter yet. It should be in my mailbox either today or tomorrow. And without it the card doesn’t work. Apple released new firmwares for the 5,1: enables pcie 2.0 speeds in windows and macOS, which is way better than 1.1! The 1080Ti is certainly going to benefit from that. There’s also and I’m running HS because you can’t use a nvidia card with Mojave (for now). That’s kind of a bummer. Also, the 5,1 can’t officially run win 10 and HS broke some Bootcamp commands and the windows partition can’t be used to install windows. You need to modify it using gdisk. It’s quite a convoluted process but I got there eventually. Sorry for hijacking your thread btw...
  15. I'm currently trying to replace the 5750 in my 5,1 with a 1080Ti... It's quite a bit faster . But it's a nice deal you got there
  16. BadGoldEagle

    Mac System 7 ... on an iPad.

    I don’t remember the exact procedure but I got it to work on my iPhone without paying anything....
  17. BadGoldEagle

    Radius pivot 0379 Monitor Issue

    Something's clearly wrong with the monitor. The cards are fine as far as I can tell. Leaky, old capacitors appear to be the culprit here. If you were to heat up the Pivot's analog board with a heat gun or even a hair dryer I think it would start right up. You could get away by only recapping the vertical circuit but you'd be far better off recapping it entirely. You'll have to take it apart and make a list of the caps. Those Pivot monitors aren't the most common thing in the world so you'll probably struggle finding a schematic or a pre-made list of caps. But yeah, it's totally repairable. Oh and congrats on getting the monitor in the first place. Those things are great.
  18. BadGoldEagle

    My quest is at an end

    Did you remove the grey scales? (get it? Greyscale / Grey Scales on the case?). I'm sorry, I couldn't resist. Aside from the pretty awful pun, that's a great find you got there. I remember seeing this machine on eBay a couple of months ago. Nobody wanted it. You definitely hit the jackpot with this thing. The DA-15 connector looks a little odd though. Wasn't that Exceed supposed to have a switch on the back? My SE/30 is also pretty much pimped out but it's not quite finished. I need to find a proper SE/30 Radius Colour Pivot and a ROM-inator II. I've already got the accelerator and NIC. It's quite a beast.
  19. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh Plus with internal SyMBiotic 20 MB hard disk

    Yeah, I get your point. My Plus doesn't see much use because of this very reason. Well, when I say Plus, should I say Pluses? I got a Plus ED (nothing fancier than a normal Plus) a year or so ago. My plan was to install this scsi helper card and a TTL video adapter (I actually have this but I have currently no way of connecting it to a modern monitor. The refresh rate's an odd one.) Having everything tucked in nicely inside is definitely a bonus. As is, it kinda feels like the current Mac Pro. You want a better 'GPU'? Sure, here's a Scuzzygraph for you. More storage? Get an HD40. After a couple of upgrades, you'll end up with a genuine 'tower'!
  20. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh Plus with internal SyMBiotic 20 MB hard disk

    Well, my unit already had the internal drive+circuitry built in so I wouldn't exactly call this a retrofit. The 512k still has issues and I can't do much about it ATM, being stranded 500 miles away from my collection. alaska actually made something that allows you to plug any 50 pin SCSI device right on top of the SCSI chip. That's a really clean mod and I would totally recommend it if you want to commit to this. With the 'daughterboard' installed you'll just need a ribbon and a fan. In fact, it would be way easier to install a SCSI2SD. That way you wouldn't have to bother with the fan or HD bracket. Double sided velcro FTW and you're done. The main issue is, the Plus inherited a very experimental SCSI protocol. It means that it can prove tricky to get some drives working on a Plus.
  21. BadGoldEagle

    Apple IIc label

    Hi My new IIc is in perfect condition but the bottom sticker is missing. Here’s what I’m on about: This picture is a great template to work on. I’ll use it to recreate a label on Photoshop. Problem is, I have no idea what my IIc’s serial number could be. 2A2S4 seems to be common to all IIcs but the rest is specific to each machine. What I do have on the other hand is the logic board’s serial number. Could it be the same as the unit’s serial number? I don’t have another IIc to check unfortunately. thanks!
  22. BadGoldEagle

    Apple IIc label

    Wow ole, thanks! It looks so good compared to my unfinished canvas. There’s nothing of interest left on the case but I’d say this is a 1985 machine, judging by the date stamp on the monitor. I have no idea how long ROM 255 units lasted until they were eventually replaced by ROM 0 machines... That label might very well come from a ROM 0 IIc. I don’t mind having the wrong type of label (normally I would though) because I’ll probably update the ROM to gain smartport fonctionality some time in the near future. Genuinity is not key for once.
  23. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh SE/30 with Radius Card

    Have you tried hitting the unit on the side a few times? There could be cold solder joints on the analog board. That’s the first thing I’d try if I were you. I’m a bit confused... is it an SE or an SE/30 we’re dealing with here? Radius made cards for both systems... If it had been a classic with a FPD then a black internal screen would have been totally normal as those macs aren’t powerful enough to drive two screens. But that’s not the case here.
  24. BadGoldEagle

    Apple IIc label

    Thanks for the nice pics joe! My IIc is a european one so there's bound to be differences anyway... But since yours is a ROM 255 as well, it's definitely worth taking a look at this. What particularly struck me is the kerning between the version I've found online and yours. For example, the "T" and the "h" are really close together on the irish one and on yours you can actually see a small gap between the two letters. It could either mean two things. One, that the printer used to make the irish label is of shoddy quality or two, that the font used wasn't exactly the same. I'd personally say it's a mix of the two. But the font I've found for the Power supply text matches yours better than mine.
  25. BadGoldEagle

    Apple IIc label

    I’m gonna use the LB’s serial number. It’s probably not the right one but at least that’s better than nothing. @olePigeon, you have extensive knowledge when it comes to reproducing labels. I’ve got a question for you. Would you happen to know what type of font Apple used for the “Power Supply” text? I’m using Helvetica condensed and compressed and even though I’m adjusting the kerning a little, some characters simply aren’t the same... the “2” for example has a short “nose” (the roundy bit on the left) on the label and I can’t seem to find the correct font... I could hack it by inserting a rectangle or something but that doesn’t seem right. Any idea? thanks!