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BadGoldEagle

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About BadGoldEagle

  • Birthday 04/18/1996

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  • Website URL
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXC7eF1qRzavpcrWPjtG2gA

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Weissach, Germany
  • Interests
    Compact Macs and post 1998 Macs (PPC and Intel)

Recent Profile Visitors

1493 profile views
  1. BadGoldEagle

    Resurecting a battery damaged Macintosh Classic Logic Board

    Sorry for the late reply. D3 is indeed not listed on the schematics but there are a few instances of DP3 and DC3, which are also diodes, and more importantly they're of the same type: 1N4148. I'd go with this one instead of the 1N4001, but I'm no electrical engineer.
  2. BadGoldEagle

    SE/30 only reads write protected floppies

    I completely forgot about the SWIM on the SE/30 not being socketed... In that case I'd test the connection between every leg and its corresponding pad on the bottom or with a VIA. Alcohol can help getting rid of residues such as cap goo etc. Use a Q tip or an old toothbrush to clean the legs. A quick flock with a dental pick will more than certainly result in a lifted pad, and you definitely don't want that!
  3. BadGoldEagle

    SE/30 only reads write protected floppies

    I know this’ll sound stupid, but have you tried pulling the swim out of the socket and putting it back in? I’ve had a similar problem with one of my SEs. I thought the swim was a goner until I swapped it back and fourth with a known good one, and the defective chip started working fine again after a few tries.
  4. BadGoldEagle

    Platinum 512ke?

    1987/88 EDs (ie 512Kes for Education) sold in Germany and the Netherlands were indeed platinum with "Macintosh ED" branding on the front. There is evidence online of a 220V platinum 512Ke with no label on the front. But it could have very well started out in life as a normal "Macintosh ED" and someone could have wiped the label off with alcohol or something...
  5. You need the patched version. The vanilla one won't work with this HD. https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/apple-hd-sc-setup-753-patch I hope you have a Floppy EMU or a bridge mac to create 800k disks...
  6. I've noticed that heavy duty aux. PSUs are rather heavy. I had found a 35A 5V industrial PSU but it weighted about two pounds... What kind of amperages can your FlexATX deliver? For a IIsi, power isn't a problem.
  7. The main issue with modern PSUs is that they can't really output more than 20A on the 5V rail. The old 800 PSU could do 30A, and the Delta unit in the 9x0s could do 33A. I know they probably don't need all that power at all times except perhaps if you intend to use them as an old school server with more than 10 hard drives in them... but it's kinda difficult to know what the actual current draw is. I'd say it would be about 18A maximum to power the board and drives but I wouldn't feel very safe with a saturating cheap aliexpress PSU in my machine... For the Mac IIs or the Q650/700, modern ATX PSUs are still within the limits.
  8. BadGoldEagle

    Analog Board Recaping Advice

    Hi I wouldn't get caps from ebay or aliexpress if I were you. Most of them are probably fakes with a shiny enclosure. I'm in Europe and shipping/handling fees from sites such as Mouser or Digikey can be prohibitive. I use Arrow because they offer worldwide shipping on orders above 50 bucks (I think... don't quote me on that). 105°C caps aren't that much more expensive to be honest... try to get long life ones (typically 5000+ hours). ESR is also important, but if you get a high grade cap, it'll more than likely already have a good ESR value.
  9. BadGoldEagle

    Hate to do this but... SE/30 Help needed

    I'd remove the old caps by cutting the top with some pliers (safer as ripping them off or twisting them I think), then immerge in some hot soapy water, scrub with a toothbrush. Rinse with clear water when done and rinse again but this time with isopropanol (this will effectively make the board dry faster and prevent any rust from forming). After that, clean the pads with your iron, and start soldering the new caps on. Did you go with tantalums or electrolytics?
  10. BadGoldEagle

    Hate to do this but... SE/30 Help needed

    The vertical lines in the first picture are definitely cap related. One of my boards produced the same patten before it was recapped (oddly enough it worked great without the accelerator, it only did this with the 50MHz Powercache 030...). Don't forget to clean the board REALLY well with isopropanol once you've removed the old caps. The rest of the symptoms are probably caused by cap goo shorting out a few components.
  11. BadGoldEagle

    Macintosh Performa PSU wrong voltage

    Hi If you had faulty voltage regulators, you'd most likely have nothing at all on the 5V or the 12V rails. As ever with those old machines, caps fail. Even if they're not swollen it doesn't mean they're fine. Low voltage typically suggests weak caps, so recap first and if it still doesn't work, then we'll have to do some troubleshooting...
  12. BadGoldEagle

    Pull power supply from SE

    I’d remove the screws that hold the analog board in place, disconnect the logic board and the CRT neck board. That way you’ll be able to swing the analog board out of place without disconnecting the yoke and the flyback... giving you plenty of space to remove the PSU.
  13. BadGoldEagle

    How to Repair a G5 Quad Dual Pump LCS

    I think they're there to add a little more pressure onto the block but they serve no other function. As for the screws, you can go ahead and tighten them by hand (with a screwdriver of course). Don't over do/torque them though! It's not necessary as it doesn't support that much weight and you might strip them or worse damage the CPU! I tighten them in a crisscross manner to insure a good pressure repartition on the die. I too attempted this repair. But unfortunately in my case it was a failure. I think my heat exchanger is clogged or something because I'm not seeing a lot of flow and it sometimes leaks when I turn the unit upside down. I haven't lost hope though. Next time i'll try to run it with some sort of temporary reservoir (i.e. a bucket).
  14. BadGoldEagle

    Reviving a 512K Hyperdrive - Error Code 0F0100

    More than two years have passed... But here's a small update. I recapped the 512k and the Hyperdrive PSU (albeit a few months ago) because both had gone bad. I was able to test the second hard drive (again) before the Mac died (again). This time, I'm suspecting one of the diodes on the analog board. But this has to do with the video circuitry, not the logic board. Both power supplies output the correct voltages. Anyway, with the second hard drive, before the video started collapsing, I was getting the same error code. The capacitor still had not been replaced so I think it's definitely the culprit. Or ROMs... or the Hyperdrive board altogether... To be continued.
  15. BadGoldEagle

    I'm an Idiot and Lost 24 Years of Data

    @dcr I feel your pain. I too lost data of sentimental value... namely all 2GBs worth of my youth that were stored on our Windows 98 PC. All documents, pictures from our digital camera, wallpapers, save games, the lot. We too did backups, on 5 CDs to be exact. 4 were CD-Rs, and #5 was a CD-RW, you can guess what happened to that one... And of course, you can't recover anything if one CD is missing... I still have the original Maxtor hard drive. It died from a really bad head crash. I kept it in case there's a chance to extract data off of it, but I very much doubt that's feasible: Data recovery services tend to be a rip off (if you're an individual that is, if you're a company that's something else entirely). About your Newton, there's still a slight chance that not all of the data was erased. About 1%. Without power, the cells slowly start to lose their data. If the battery wasn't completely dead (but on its way out, which might be the case, given that it didn't warn you about the backup battery being low, did it?), then some of the data might still be left on it, albeit corrupted (and only IF you put a new battery as soon as you realized that the old one was dead, the sooner the better). You could try reading data directly from the memory chips and try to decode what's on them and what's left. It'll take you months (you'll need both a good non corrupted dump plus your current dump), but it could be possible to extract some of the data... Again, chances are really low, but I thought this might be worth mentioning.
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