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falen5

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  1. Vintage Mac Safety

    dont know why you would want to leave a mac plugged in and turned on over night but I wouldnt. All my vintage machines get plugged out when its time for the zzzzz's if your house catched fire i dont think the warranty would be worth much plug em all out man
  2. Its still sitting on the shelf like Tech. The last part was to fix the hard drive and see if I could access it, and see if i could get the videx card to work but i need the original board working. I got most everything else working. But since this machine , I got a Lisa. Then a load of siemens nixdorf PC's ( playing half life on a pentium 166 with 32 meg of ram takes time!!) Problem is time. Just havnt got back to it yet. Then there is the crazy terminal i got. 3 atari st's came after that I keep collecting stuff. But I will get back to it eventually.
  3. Any ideas? SE/30 with squares

    recapping wont fix your display problem
  4. Any ideas? SE/30 with squares

    get that battery out of there and keep it out. It only holds the date , time and a few settings like volume. Not worth the risk of destroying the machine. I dont have any batteries in any of my macs and i have about 50 of them. that machine is almost 100%. Worth fixing. The messed up screen is usually ue8. Get a meter and meter out the leg of each pin to the first via along the corresponding trace to see if you have good connection. If they all look good try the chips either side.
  5. Any ideas? SE/30 with squares

    Recap the board. Check UE8
  6. Retrobrite Failure

    Great Job man. dont know if it would work, but how about printing off the SE/30 logo, on a label sticker, and make a stencil out of it. You would have to , by hand, cut out the letters. If its good enough , peel off the back and stick it in place , mask off the rest of the machine, and get a tin of black spray paint - 2 or 3 shots from the right distance , let it dry Theres probably a much easier way id be happy with the case as it is! How long did it take to sand ? good recovery.
  7. Retrobrite Failure

    davidg5678 - there is a solution for your case the original color can be restored by sanding. You will loose the surface finish but you will get a consistant color all round. just get a bit of 2x1 and some p100 sandpaper and get stuck in. finish it off with p200 and it will be as smooth as a babys %$£" you will have to do the whole thing. I was going to do it to the atari st i mentioned above, but there were loads of thin, strips( like a vent) on the case and would of taken to much time give it a shot. Your case will end up looking like a brand new prototype case!!
  8. Retrobrite Failure

    i tried a bit of retrobrighting recently as well had mixed results some good , some like what you got i found that if you use the cling film you have to keep going back to it every 5 minutes, lift the film, and keep spreading the goo. keep working it. dont just let it sit in the sun for hours without checking on it. The sun in ireland ( when it decides to show itself) can retrobright a case in 30 minutes. I did a color classic last month. I could literally see the case changing color by the minute on the color classic, as the color was getting brighter i could see those patches forming. Lifted the cling film, used a small paint brush, and just spread the goo everywhere again. Only small amounts. The patched i was getting were the same as what you have, but i kept re-spreading the goo, kept am eye on it, and ended up with a perfect retrobright. If i didnt keep checking it , it would of ended up like yours. I found that by tilting the case you can see where the goo/solution is and is not. Within 1 hour the case was like new. However! !!!!!!!! I tried the same on an atari st case using same process - disaster. This time i ended up with patched as well, but these patches were brighter than the original color. The peroxide goo had actually bleached the plastic, brighter than its original color. So far i cant see a way to undo this damage, except maybey to let it in the sun for 10 years to go yellow again. You can try different polishes but it wont fix the problem. The case was beyond rescue so i decided to experiment with it. I took a small bit of p200 sandpaper to the bleached parts, did a bit of sanding and the original color come back. But this destroyed the original finish of the plastic. Then broke off another bit of the bleached plastic and took a look under a scope. my eyes are not the best but from what i saw it looked as if the plastic has basically melted from the peroxide. Even the surface finish felt different. I think it all comes down to the plastic itself and what additives were used in creating the batch. ABS is what most computer cases are made from. There are many many additives in plastic, plastizer, uv stabilizer, fire retardents etc etc. Long story short , if i want to retrobright something , take the case in question and TRY A SMALL TEST PATCH ON THE INSIDE OF THE CASE FIRST I have done a few cases so far and cant see and consistancy in the process. I am using the same peroxide goo, clingfilm and process, but get different results, mostly good, each time. Id advise anyone who wants to retrobright their beloved machine do a test patch first. Dont cover the entire case and hope for the best. You could ruin the case And when I say ruin , i mean it. You could end up with a case that is 40 shades of cream. Ugly !! Retrobrigting does work, but not on all plastics. Be warned.
  9. A different kind of conquest...

    Great looking Macine, with an even better looking case, with an even a better story. Great stuff. I always ask for any history on a machine either face to face , phone or message. When I recap a machine I usually put a sticker inside the case listing the work, when I did it ,and my name. If theres a history with the machine I sometimes write a text document detailing the machines history and let it sit on the desktop. Next owner can add their story to the list. Who knows, in 2030 I might buy an old Mac and discover I recapped it back in 2014!! Joe make a history for that machine and keep it with the machine. It just adds to the machine so much. Great post joethezombie
  10. Got this cool looking, old terminal.

    thanks gorgonops
  11. Got this cool looking, old terminal.

    Does anyone know what the "Here Is" key is for just had to ask
  12. Got this cool looking, old terminal.

    Just looking at the pics scutboy, the serial is 4186 and the motherboard has a assy number 1 , rev B on it looks like one of the early machines. All the more reason not to destroy any part of it just took out the motherboard - no screws- just lifted out these came out in 74 i think . If this is from 74 I rekon it is best to just recap it if needed , clean it up, get it working, and just leave it at that. I dont even like cleaning off all the 'age'. It is covered in dust and the analog board for the monitor is just covered with black dust/grime but for the sake of preserving it Ill have to clean it completely to see if there is any damage / decay. electrolite etc etc
  13. Got this cool looking, old terminal.

    Thanks for all the advice folks - appreciate it hey armoralley. the guy i got it from must of been from trinity , as that is the story he gave me. Down here in waterford i saw similar in WIT in the mid 80's. From what I remember they were terminals plugged into a mainframe called a vax ( memory is not the best) im not in favor if altering vintage machines, but in all fairness , even if i got this working it will be pretty much useless. starting to look at the monitor size, wondering about a color replacement and a power pc upgrade. first biggest problem I see is the keyboard. The keyboard is part of the main PCB. it is 1 complete pcb with the keys soldered directly into it. Doubt a mac keyboard would be kind enough to just fit right in there only way to use existing keys ( i would imagine) would be to wire each key to an apple device - that would mean cutting all the traces for the keys on the terminal board - that would leave it useless dont really want to do that more thinking required
  14. Power Mono Classic Build

    Thats great work Well done
  15. oh man, thats bad. Infact its one of the worst Ive seen in a long time. I would say there is a million to 1 chance of it ever working again But sure, put it under a tap of water, wash of all the crud, and have another look only when you get the board clean will you see the damage to the outer traces. There are components missing, and many reduced to rust. The traces are long gone underneath.
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