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Everything posted by dzog

  1. dzog

    3D-Printed Objects

    Nice - what a practical idea!
  2. dzog

    Mac Mini G4 boxed

    Very nice find! Looks like you got the secret speed-bumped model produced in the final months. It's like the LCIII+ of G4 Minis. In addition to the fastest CPU on a PPC mini, this one also came with a faster HDD, double the VRAM (64 vs 32), and a faster SuperDrive (if configured with one) vs the advertised 1.42 model.
  3. dzog

    LC II Restoration project

    Reading this entire thread is what sold me on push & twist: Try to find some junk boards with similar SMD caps to practice the whole process on, including cleaning the pads and soldering on the new ones. I was able to find some in an old cable modem and dead HDD controller in my junk bin.
  4. dzog

    Can't set year 2020

    Thanks, this makes sense and paints the 'midpoint' decision as logical, being a general date structure vs simply for system clock and filesystem timestamps. Unix time is signed so the unix epoch is functionally a midpoint as well. (Not sure about the Toolbox's internal representation.)
  5. dzog

    Dumb*]#* eBay sellers

    Ugh. Yes, been there, felt that pain. One less in the world... That is just egregious, and referencing the "when I bought it" price is such an eyeroll-inducing move. I've become a "super high maintenance buyer" who asks sellers how they are going to be packaging whenever I think there's a chance this will happen. I offer to pay for extra costs if needed for it to arrive safely, and tell them not to worry about the shipping time - "better safe than fast". It annoys a few of them ("of course I will ship it well") but does seem to help avoid catastrophes. Some people are clueless tools, but some just don't have the knowledge or experience. I snagged an awesome ImageWriter II in box and asked the lady about shipping. She was just going to ship it directly in the aged original packaging. She was more than happy to double-box it once I explained how that wouldn't be safe and sent this link. She asked why people cared so much about the condition of vintage Mac stuff and I gave her an abbreviated spiel; she was very gracious, told me the items belonged to her late father and she was happy that they would be going to someone who would enjoy them. ("Selling my grandparent/parent/spouse's old stuff" is something I've encountered quite a bit.)
  6. Greetings Apple II friends. I am attempting to repair a IIe card I received in a lot. I recapped it and it seems to work OK, except for reading 5.25" disks. My lack of Apple II knowledge and experience is hindering my debugging ability. I was able to get it to read a ProDOS 3.5" disk (via the host Macintosh) and run applications. No obvious issues there. But, reading a 5.25" disk just makes the initialization(?) noise and then fails. So, it's talking to the disk somehow. I've tried cleaning disks, 3x different drives, and a bunch of different disks, all the same result. I unfortunately don't have any other Apple II gear to test with. Is this a known Apple II failure mode of some sort? A failure of a certain chip on the board? Any pointers are appreciated! Video.mov
  7. Thanks for putting those helpful resources together Fix is working reliably for a few days now. Eventually I think I'll want to make this board repair a bit nicer for the long-run - get a replacement resistor pack, redo the pad and trace, a nicer reflow on the IWM. But for now I'm just stoked to be up-and-running with it. And, heck, the "homebrew" look is a bit endearing
  8. dzog

    Can't set year 2020

    I've wondered about this too. With such constraints on space, why allow dates back to 1920? It seems like they had picked the present day as the approx midpoint of the range rather than the start. The 1970 unix epoch makes a heck of a lot more sense.
  9. dzog

    Trick to desolder thru holes?

    Try adding some fresh solder and a bit of flux when heating it up for removal. Braid may also prove helpful.
  10. For what it's worth, this guy is in Ireland and appears to be active and receiving positive reviews: https://vintagerecapeurope.wixsite.com/vintagerecapeurope/recapping
  11. I enjoyed reading Scott Baret's thoughtful response. As for the repair you are looking at. There are newly made replacement gears available at reasonable cost. There are models for 3d printers, and molded gears sold by eBay sellers and the like.
  12. Following off of what Unknown_K is saying - practicing on a junk board is highly recommended before touching something valuable and vintage. I was able to dig up an ancient cable modem that had a handful of SMD caps inside prior to attempting my first recap. Soldered a bunch of good new caps on to replicate the experience (it's worth the money). At the very least, this could help give you an idea of how things will go for you. Also, beware of diving into using hot air. That's where things can go south rather quickly.
  13. I tried out a fancy-pants 27" 4K HDR10 LCD once and it had a fan in it. An LCD with active cooling! I was slightly astonished.
  14. dzog

    LC II Restoration project

    It's perhaps the thing of holy wars, or simple personal preference, but here's some advantages I can see: - Circuits were likely designed with electrolytics in mind. Tantalums have some different properties. - Electrolytics tend to fail open, not short, as proven by time and history. Cap goo is bad, but a short may be extremely bad. Unclear if tantalums are more likely to fail short. - Tantalums feel a bit more 'uncertain' in the longrun. - You can get the exact pad fit of the factory caps with electrolytics. The electrolytics in these old machines were relatively new technology at the time. Modern caps, especially more-expensive long-life ones, should last a whole lot longer. I landed on the Nichicon UCB ("Long Life Assurance") and UCW ("Low Impedance, Long Life Assurance") lines for the recaps I am currently diving into. This all said, there are people who have been doing this much longer than me who choose to use tantalums.
  15. That wasn't _quite_ it but it certainly led me down the path - thank you. We have victory! First recap quickly became first IC remove-and-reflow and finally the hacky (but working) fix you see in front of you: Sequence of events: - Retinned RP1 and a variety of other things to no avail - Started testing everything with a multimeter - Culprit! Cap goo (which I had thought looked so minor) opened a trace going from RP1 to the IWM. Barely visible damage near the junction. - First attempt at fix (jumper from RP1 to IWM) first worked, then failed. - Newbie debacle interlude: in a debug attempt, I tried to "reseat" the IWM with a heat gun (a $30 basic low/hi 250/350C one I use for heatshrink) instead of retinning with the iron like I'd be doing with the others. Oops, the chip slipped and now it's totally misaligned. Beat myself up a bit. Ended up removing IWM completely, cleaning off pads, and using solder paste for the first time to reflow. Paste is magic! But I used too much and had to clear 4 bridges, total PITA. - The fix was flakey as RP1's leg was corroded and weak. It soon fell off. Quite fortunately it's a simple 100 ohm resistor pack and I have plenty of resistors on hand. - Ultimate destination is one of the connector pins; wiring straight into there was easiest for me. It's not the prettiest thing in the world, but it does mean I get to play with Apple II stuff now The happiest sounds: IMG_8565.MOV
  16. I did get a disk copy program running via 3.5" ProDOS. This is what I get reading from a 5.25" drive with a disk inserted. Error on every read. The Red LED lights up on the drive, and every 8 blocks it makes a small noise. Video shows the behavior and the drive noise; apologies for the sad-sounding HDD in the background: IMG_8550.mov
  17. Good call - I could just make out some unwashed goo/corrosion underneath the PDS slot near the cap. Hard to reach, but I poured in some vinegar, and also ran it through the dishwasher with detergent. Re-tinned the PDS pins with flux and a mini dab of new solder each. Haven't broken it worse yet but still not reading any floppy disks! Is it interesting that the drive does do the "init" sound when access is attempted, but apparently will not read? Maybe I can get some sort of diagnostic software running via 3.5"/ProDOS; perhaps a disk copying software would lend some insights.
  18. I know you mentioned you cleaned the head - but that's what I was going to suggest. How much cleaning have you attempted? The 'cursed floppy' is perhaps quite dirty, or the media is disintegrating. Try both cleaning the head manually with 99% iso and doing a number of passes with a cleaning floppy.
  19. dzog

    Macintosh LCII Restoration

    Great documentation, thank you for sharing! I've done the full clean up and relube on maybe half a dozen floppy drives now. Never hit a screw so stuck - have been lucky I suppose. I've been using lithium grease which seems to work fine, at least in the shorter term (drives are very smooth), no indications to stop using it. But I am liking @LaPorta's EM-30L tip.
  20. dzog

    Macintosh SE/30 Restoration Video

    Great video! Looking forward to part 2.
  21. Yeah - they are all model A9M0107. As shown in the video, they make a satisfying noise but never seem to actually load any data.
  22. Hey there! Please bear with me on this long topic. I acquired a 575 recently (a long sought-after machine for me), with a IIe card (my first real foray into Apple II), and it's becoming my big "learn to recap" impetus. So I am simultaneously assessing the board and thinking about how best to properly restore it and keep it happy for years to come. Though I haven't tested everything, the machine boots up fine, sound works, everything seems fine from the "boot it up and play a game" test. The display does have a relatively slight but noticeable pinkish tint which seems to either subdue over time or my eyes just adjust to. After heating up the rear panel cover tabs gently with a heat gun to prevent snapping, I removed the logic board. (I snapped my childhood 550's tabs clear off years ago, so I was hyper-aware of the danger here...) Looks pretty good at first glance. No obviously leaking capacitors or corrosion; the square battery was intact before I removed it. A bit of probably-harmless-seeming white gunk near the CPU and ROM slots: Flipped the board and - uh oh! What's all this? Hmm. No nearby components look fried, and it doesn't seem corrosive -- what is this, a big spooge of flux leftover from mfg? Any ideas? I started cleaning it up with 99% iso; it's a bit stubborn in that it thinned out and spread around a bunch. As for the IIe card's two caps - This one seems ok: But this one looks pretty bad, right? Corroded contacts, especially the negative terminal area. Probably not safe to use until replacing? (A bummer, since I have only the tiniest bit of Apple II experience and was looking forward to diving in. It will probably take me a month or two before I feel comfortable recapping a valuable thing - not to mention sourcing tools and caps.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ OK! Now for the recap strategy. I've been soldering cable repairs and through holes since I was a kid, but I'm not expertly skilled and have never touched SMDs. My basic learning plan is: - Play with surface mount soldering/desoldering on some junk boards. I've been collecting a few random boards with SMDs (e.g. from a cable modem, HDD controller) for this. Nothing yet with caps that look just like the Mac ones. - Attempt a full recap on a less-important-to-me Mac board, or two. I have a couple of LC III boards, and would probably start with one of those. - Apple IIe card recap - Recap 575 and other valuable boards Equipment: I don't mind investing a bit of cash in tools to make the job easier and the results nicer. I have a bunch of Mac boards that need recapping at this point. If I get the hang of this, I will probably want to do it a lot. Thousands of $$ for single tools is out of the question for me but I'm happy to spend some $500 or $600 (and maybe more down the road) if it brings real benefit. - I bought a small bent tip for my ol' reliable Hakko FX-888. But maybe I should upgrade to an FX-951? Anyone use a 951 for Mac work? Any recommended tips? - Hot air rework. Is it really the best? Last I did a deep dive search on this, I came to the conclusion that "press down and slowly twist" was a better cap-removal method on these boards than hot air or dual irons, with the latter two being more tricky and error-prone (melting things). That said, this one I've seen recommended and is supposed to be nice for the price. - Microscope. I should probably wait on this one - my close-up vision is pretty OK, and this would probably blow out my budget. Maybe an acquisition down the road or if I sell some stuff to offset. Either way, any recs for a price/performance microscope for this type of work? - Caps. Electrolytic vs tantalum seems to be a great debate? My instinct is to go electrolytic, as high-quality (and preferably over-rated for volts) as I can. The circuit is designed for these caps, no? I kind of want to 'wait and see' what happens in the long run with tantalum-recapped boards before going the same route, as the rumors of failing closed/shorted (or with an explosion) give me pause. But maybe I'm just being paranoid. Can anyone recommend some high-quality electrolytics and the best place to buy? Thanks for reading my long and winding thread. I'm looking forward to any thoughts and advice you all might have!
  23. OK, here's the rub: It won't boot from a 5.25" drive. Every time I try, the drive lights up and makes the initial "seeking" sound, then the card gives up and says "unable to boot from startup slot". The card is clearly communicating with the drives, but seemingly won't actually read from them. I have tried: - Three different 5.25 drives. All purported to be working (one came w/ the machine), though I have no other compatible machines to test them with as this is my only Apple II device. - Cleaning the drives with a cleaning disk - A variety of clean, nice looking disks from a variety of sources. No other way to verify them but I would be pretty surprised if they were all 100% nonfunctional disks. - Reseating cables, cards, cleaning pins, etc. I'm an Apple II dummy - this is my first experience with Apple II so I don't know the ins and outs at all. So maybe I am missing some obvious thing. The pins around the IWM look good for what it's worth. Video of behavior: Video.mov IWM: Giving it a scrub down anyway but not seeing anything concerning, at least to my eyes...
  24. Thanks for the tips! I scrubbed with white vinegar and it cleaned up nicely. I completed the IIe card recap earlier today, following a bit of practice on an old Cable Modem board. I felt pretty ok with how it came out for a first timer. Here was my basic method: Removed the old leads with flux and heat and cleaned up the solder with braid. Put flux paste down and carefully aligned the cap. The flux paste helped keep it in place. Applied heat and just a bit of 0.015" solder (Kester 44) to one side, then the other. Tested for strength and tested connectivity with a multimeter. (C2 made that easy with the little holes.) New C2: Board with two new long life caps: Put the card into the 575 (due for recap but no sign of corrosion or cap failure yet). No fires, and the IIe card boots up with no error messages! Much rejoicing. I was able to play games off of a ProDOS 3.5" disk no problem. I am cautiously ready to declare the recap a success! However, there is still an issue...
  25. dzog

    I join the iBook club: 2002 white G3/600

    Tasty! Very nice condition. I sold my iBook G3/500 ages ago. Maybe time to join the club and buy a replacement I bought 10.0 on launch day. Was back to Mac OS 9 within a couple hours of playing around